Step 1: Materials
*** I also used some materials I had left over from other projects around the house/in my shop***
8- 2"X6" 8 foot long boards
3- 1 1/2"X 1/4" flat steel at 88" long
1- 3"X1/4" flat steel at 88" long
2- Garage door pulleys (Mine came with bolts, washers, and nuts)
60- 1/4"X 1 1/2" lag screws
6- 5/16"X 3 1/2" lag bolts
2- 1" black iron floor flange
2- 1" black iron 90 degree elbow
2- 1" black iron close nipple
1- 1"X12" black iron nipple
Mini wax dark walnut stain
Rustoleum dark bronze hammered spray paint
Step 2: Make Your Cuts
Step 3: Sand
Step 4: Stain
-I laid all 15 boards on a work table in the front yard where there is plenty of sunlight.
-I mixed up my can of mini wax dark walnut stain and applied it with a foam brush in random strokes with the grain.
-I did this kind of hastily and randomly, sometimes starting in different parts of the wood than where my previous stroke left off. (Remember I am going for an old beat up wood type look)
-I would stain 2-3 boards at a time and then take a lint free rag and wipe off the excess stain. Then repeat the process for the next set of 2-3 boards
- once they were all done I flipped them to the next side and started again. I did this for all 6 sides of all 15 boards
**they were completely covered and looked very good after the first coat had dried, but they looked to "new" and shiny for what I was going for. So the next day I ended up going back over them each randomly with the sander and 220 grit sandpaper, taking it all the way down to bare wood in some spots and not so much in others. Wiping them all clean of saw dust and reapplying the dark walnut stain with a foam brush again. This time I worked one board at a time instead of 2-3. I applied the stain waited roughly about 30 seconds, and wiped the excess off with my rag. Once dried I really liked the way this looked so I left it alone.
Step 5: Assemble Handle
- take a floor flange and a close nipple and screw them together.
- then screw a 90 degree elbow to the open side of the close nipple and floor flange.
- Take your 12" nipple and screw it into the elbow
- then screw the remaining elbow onto the opposite end of the 12"nipple.
- Then screw the remaining close nipple into the open end of the 90, then your remaining floor flange to the opposite end of the close nipple.
Now you should have a handle that looks like the photo above!
Step 6: Test Fit
I laid all 15 boards on the ground pushed tight against each other and flush on both ends. Then I laid 2 pieces of 1 1/2" flat steel on top of them. I ended up deciding I wanted the flat steel to be mounted 10" in from each side. So with the steel placed 10" in from either side and flush with the wood at the bottom I took some measurements and decided that if I put a lag screw every 2 3/4" that would evenly distribute two screws per board. Perfect! Now time to measure mark and drill!
Step 7: Measure. Mark. Drill
Then I set up my drill press with a 9/32" drill bit and drilled out the 30 holes in each piece of steel.
For the remaining two pieces of steel (one 3" and one 1 1/2") I made 6 lines at 16" apart (my studs measure 16" apart on center) and center punched them as well. Then drilled them out with a 11/32" drill bit.
Step 8: Paint the Hardware
Step 9: Mount Flat Bar and Stained Wood
When I got to the top I mounted my pulleys about 1/4" from the top.
*i also had to touch up the paint around the bolt heads, as you can see in the picture it flaked off with the dril and socket.
Step 10: Mount Railing System to Wall
For this step I recruited the Mrs. to help hold one side level while I bolted the other side to the wall. I had some spare close nipples, plastic washers, and galvanized washers left around the house so I used those for my spacers between the two pieces of flat bar. For each of the 6 lag bolts I had one close nipple, one plastic washer (about 1/4" width) and two galvanized washers. All together it was about 1 1/2" of spacer.
Basically my wife held the two pieces of flat bar together on one side and held a 3 foot level on top of the 3" piece of flat bar, while I held the other side, inserted my spacers, and bolt, and drilled into my previously marked location on the wall. We did this for the far left hole, one in the middle, and far right hole. The other three I was able to do by myself because at this point it was supported.
I also mounted a guide at the bottom, to keep the kids from pulling The bottom to far off the wall and derailing the door. For this I just found some aluminum flat bar I had in the garage and bent it to look decent and big enough to accommodate the door.