This planter took me approximately 90 minutes to make: The design is simple, and so is the required level of woodworking skill, the only tools required are a square, pencil, electric/cordless drill and suitable spade end drill bit, and a tenon saw; although a chisel and some sand paper would be useful for tidying up the slip joints.
I cut down some 2.4 metre long pallet deck planks that were 9 cm wide and 1.9 cm thick to 1.9 mtrs long for the base tier so that the tier inside the slip joints is a 1.8 mtr X 1.8 mtr square.
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Only the slip joint slots at the corners of the lower tier need to be half the plank's width in depth, this is to allow all four sides to sit firmly on the ground. All of the remaining slots used in this planter have been set at a depth of 1/3rd of the planks width.
Note that that the 1/2 depth slot is 5 cm from the end of the plank, and the 1/3 depth slot for the second tier is 20 cm in from the inside edge the first slot:
It is important to remember that on all the slip joints you are working inwards so that you keep the dimensions and the slots in the correct place.







































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What is the "wood preservative" you used?
Thanks,
ColinK
One of the preservatives I'm trying to avoid is copper compounds like in Cuprolignum.
Another is creosote.
I have one candidate I'm testing on a fence now, far away from my veggies since it has some copper in it.
Finding some food-friendly alternatives would be a good thing.
ColinK
As I live in the Puget Sound region I also have to wonder about runoff from my garden projects slowly eroding into surface water and thence into our salmon streams.
Yes, finding relatively healthy ways to preserve wood is indeed frustrating.
ColinK
Help a dumbo, please?
The tiers allow us to better manage a given area. We can select plants that grow to different heights and plant them in the tiers according to their light requirements. With the plants at different heights a little thought at the sowing time allows us position and space according to leaf canopy cover so that one plant does not shade out the other.
The Pyramid planter is being used by the Build/Open Community gardening group for Herbs and flowers in a large open space so sun light availability is not a real issue.
Our other vegetable planters are either stepped from the rear or from a corner and have been placed so that they receive the maximum amount of daily sunlight available.
Growing in tiers allows us to easily spot feed and weed to the cropping plant's requirements
Nice work.
I donated this particular planter to the Build Community Garden, at the Open Academy her in Norwich. The Pyramid is now being utlised as part of a learn difficulities program, and it is giving pleasure to many people.
I like the design so much, that I adapted it slightly to suit our garden and our requirements, by providing a small flower bed around the base of a young Plum tree.
I like the idea of putting this around a small tree - one would have to be careful of not having the soil up against the root collar where it would eventually rot the lower trunk. You could even plant a low stature blueberry bush or something similar in the center. PVC rods (or something like that) could be curved over and covered to extend the season too. You've given me some great ideas.
Very nice that you donated one - I'm sure it is much appreciated.
Great idea and thank you for posting.