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Small 110 volt arc welder (NYDG)

Step 4Electronical Parts

Electronical Parts
Assembling the Electronic Part onto the Caring Case.

Just follow the Schematics and make sure you get all the (step transformers) in the correct placement.

Easy to follow Schematic... Thanks too.... http://www.dansworkshop.com/index.shtml, with minor changes.
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8 comments
Feb 7, 2010. 10:10 AMguds777 says:
 the outlet for the owen in your kitchen is much hier amps, maby 40 amps.
Sep 3, 2009. 6:22 PMdynamodan says:
Thanks for crediting my site. The correct url to the article on my site is here:
http://www.dansworkshop.com/electricity-and-electronics/homebuilt-arc-welder.htm I originally came up with these plans and photos about 10 years ago and I also sell a downloadable pdf with even more photos and instructions.
Dec 4, 2009. 10:36 AMjuanoporras says:
thanks dynamodan, I saw your site before this instructable and I recommend it!, its much clearer I believe.

thanks to Kdemon too for sharing that info here!
May 22, 2006. 10:20 PMPrometheus says:
Erm...Sure most "instructables" don't have a 220V outlet, but even fewer have a 120V 100 Amp source either...
Jun 5, 2009. 7:25 AMnickajeglin says:
All that you need to input into the transformers is the standard ~15 amps from your wall socket. The purpose of the re-wrapping the secondary windings is to lower the voltage and raise the amperage.
Mar 17, 2008. 1:07 PMcomputerwiz_222 says:
In my city, the houses that run christmas lights to the max they can handle hire the electrical company to install an extra 100 amp service. The houses here are usually 50 or 100 depending on the age of the house. No one has a single outlet in their home that is capable of 100 amps. The most is 15 or 30 (maybe)
Jun 29, 2008. 1:34 AMDerin says:
WE HAVE 200A 380V TRANSFORMERS THAT FEED A WHOLE STREET AND MY LAND OWNS ONE

it is nice having 76kW at your disposal

did you know the transformers explode in case too many amps get pulled?(only the old types without a reset lever)and the new electronic one asks for a password or pulling of a lever for reset of internal breaker

Oct 24, 2009. 8:35 AMtoogers says:
hah, it's fun reading the subscript in a whisper, and the caps and bold in a yell.
Jul 1, 2008. 12:01 AMPrometheus says:
Chill with the bold large type, that's just as bad as all-caps, maybe more rude. Please stick with the site's basic format. Good for you that you know HTML, noone cares. Also, transformers don't ask for passcodes, control panels do, and no mains transformer is properly-installed without a breaker. Transformers blow-up on the pole because the circuit is compromised earlier in the circuit than the intended protection, such as an insulation failure right where the feed comes into a building. Others explode due to improper maintenance, rebuild, or configuration mistakes, or from people typing in large and obnoxious bold print on a forum for no apparent reason.
Jul 1, 2008. 12:28 AMDerin says:
ok ok correct it was the control panel for the transformer well yes but the electric company said it explodes because it is also a fuse,the newer ones have a lever to pull to reset and finally,I have seen a breaker box beside the transformer with the wire running into it
Jul 1, 2008. 6:35 AMPrometheus says:
I apologize, I came down hard on you, it';s just the moderator in me. I've admined/moderated many forums, so I snapped on the etiquette you used. You seem to still be a good guy, so I'm letting it go as a honest mistake. Anyway.... The breaker-box may have been a cut-out (knife-switch) as a manual disconnect (for service repairs/inspection). Mains transformers are required to have a breaker or other over-current device between them and the load, some of which are not easily-recognizable to a layman as the familiar devices due to a differing construction. I agree to what you have seen, but interpretation relies on a shared observation.....meaning that if I saw it as you have, I could name what you have seen. In extremes, the "high-side breaker" (supply-side) will blow explosively, because it is open to the outside air and installed to protect the source, but keep in mind that this same reaction is enclosed on a 100-amp+ breaker when it trips as well, also trying to protect it's source. On average, there are over 40 breakers from the power-plant to your appliance in place to protect the higher circuits from an overload. Without them, one short in a domestic home would black-out a city-block or burn it down. Only two breakers separate an appliance from your mains, the remaining 38-average are on the poles leading to the power-plant, and within the plants themselves. Overcurrent devices in a circuit work on a hierarchy, which is why you have a dozen breakers for your home, and then you have one "mains" that will kill power to the whole structure if it trips or is toggled. Every domestic and commercial building, regardless of size, has this mains, which almost never blows under normal circumstances. This doubles as a "cut-out" when servicing or reconfiguring the structure's main wiring. All power-distribution circuits work on a "tree" structure. The trunk (mains) is your power-source, and there are "branch" circuits. To detail this structure in a post is impossible, but just in your home, your trunk line comes through your "mains breaker", and then feeds the branch circuits for your individual areas of the house, and further branches are done even per room for multiple outlets. Some branches split several times, some do not split at all, such as your heavy-appliance circuits like your range/dryer/clothes-washer outlet/dishwasher/water-heater/food-disposal/other hard-wired appliances. In light of this project however, an illegal tap to the mains (after the mains breaker please...for your own safety!) while managing your power-consumption of the residence as a whole could make this work. Your trunk load can be determined by yo7ur mains breaker, generally 150Amps for your average 1500 sq. foot house, but this estimate is very vague, check your actual mains breaker and your home's wanng health before proceeding.
Jul 1, 2008. 8:50 AMDerin says:
ohh no prob noo not a blade switch (i think) ok and it is something like the picture correct ok then no it will not be illegal since it is mine Thank You for telling these facts and here is the picture:
Jul 1, 2008. 8:51 AMDerin says:
and plus,I will not do this project
Jul 1, 2008. 8:51 AMDerin says:
that image was a bug
Mar 18, 2008. 12:11 AMPrometheus says:
common domestic outlet = 15 amps 120V
common dryer outlet = 30 amps 240V
common range outlet = 50 amps 240V

Still, a tough call to get that kind of power and still meet electrical code.
Sep 24, 2008. 7:16 AMthermoelectric says:
Hehe, I Australia where 240v is our main source we have: 10 amps 240v for the lights 15 amps 240v for the powerpoints 30 amps 240v for oven
Sep 24, 2008. 7:16 AMthermoelectric says:
Usually
Mar 22, 2008. 11:22 PMDerin says:
maybe 380v (my three phase equivalent)could handle more amps
Jun 12, 2008. 8:32 AMDerin says:
since it can feed a huge destroying machine and we have our own grid transformer so TAP INTO THE TRANSFORMER(for us turks that would be TRAFOYA GIR)
Mar 17, 2008. 8:11 PMalex-sharetskiy says:
this is where capacitors come in : )
Sep 12, 2008. 11:44 AMmanicmonday says:
I bought the instructions for the homebuilt welder a while back. I did build a welder that worked, but never really put it into service cause it was too heavy, and I had a more servicable storebought one. I did learn a lot about transformers and electronics in the process though. But now to my question. How do you know the power requirements of the microwave oven fans? I thought they were 115 vac, but I put that one one the other day and burned it up. Thanks
Jun 23, 2008. 12:52 AMmicrowavedisplayDOTcom says:
And of course by "electronical", he means "electronic".
Mar 18, 2008. 3:37 AMstevie1 says:
didn't you say we needed 10 transformers???
May 22, 2006. 10:21 PMPrometheus says:
my mistake, you didn't clarify primary/secondary windings too well

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Author:Kdemon