After making a photobooth this summer from these instructions portable photobooth I wanted a more mobile and smaller booth but still be able to use a DSLR.....
Step 1: Step 1: Parts
For the photobooth I used:
Front and back - 4mm MDF (laser cut from the illustrator template that is named frontbackipad.ai)
Sides - 18mm MDF (17cm wide)
Corners - balsa wood 3cm x 3cm (or various sizes)
3mm countersunk screws
Arcade button - Green
Lock - with key
Camera - I used a Canon 650D / Rebel T4i , with magic lantern installed (for intervalometer)
Lens - Canon 15-85mm
Flash - Youngnou 560-II - or any flash with a sync input
Sync cable to flash - cable
Hot shoe adapter - shoe
Eye-fi card - card
Beauty dish - 16" with s-mount kit
Speaker stand 35mm tube - any or
Speaker stand top hat 35mm - top hat
16mm metal rod for fastening beauty dish
2x hinges any type
Camera mount head, I had an old Manfrotto 486RC2 that I wasnt using
2.5mm stereo jack
some 2 wire cables for the button
Tools and materials used:
Cordless drill and various drills
Soldering gun and solder
Sanding paper - 120, 240, 400.
White spray paint
Step 2: Step 2: the Build
After having the 4mm MDF laser cut from the file in part 1 you can measure the lengths you need for the sides, bottom and top. (first two pictures are of the wrong front, I used a microsoft surface first, but changed to ipad)
Drill holes for the screws, you have to drill the whole way in because mdf can break up if it is not pre drilled.
Use a countersink bit so the screws are easily hidden afterwards.
When the sides, bottom and top are completed you can then begin forming the corner curve from the balsa wood.
I like to cut them into strips, glue them to the sides, after the glue is dried it is really easy to sand the balsa down.
Drill a hole in the bottom for the speaker top hat, I used a 38mm core drill for that, measured in the middle.
After you have sanded the balsa down you have to close it up with polyester putty or it will absorb all the paint and primer and leave a rough surface. Also fill all holes where the screws are.
Sand all the corners and holes until there are no blemishes or scratches and finish with 400 grit sandpaper.
Step 3: Step 3: Paint
I am no expert on painting, but to get the best paint surface you have to sand everything down to at least 400grit.
Spray on a surface primer filler, sand that also down with 400grit. Remove all dust and try to use a dust mask and enough ventilation when spraying the paint. Just follow the instructions on the can.
Step 4: Step 4: Interior
It all depends on what camera you are using, but the hole for the front is 80mm wide so make sure your lens fits through that. You can see what kind of bracket is built for the camera to stand on the pictures
So that the photobooth would not rotate on the stand I drilled a hole on the side of the hat, put a thread bit on and an knob to fasten.
To solder the button to the 2.5mm jack I followed these instructions link
To fasten the ipad is illustrated in the picture. Used some balsa wood, measured the thickness of the ipad, glued 3 pieces together so they form a brace that holds a wood lenghtwise across the iPad.
Step 5: Software, Settings and More
To receive images from the eye-fi card, I am using shuttersnitch, it has alot of features, a great image mask / overlay, can send to facebook, flickr and more, great for browsing pictures, has a filmstrip or can hide it....
Settings for the camera:
shutter speed: 200
Manual focus set to 1.5 - 3m
turn off image stabilizer
Magic lantern settings:
Magic lantern has a built in intervalometer that has many settings, I have it begin the process when the focus button is pressed ( as described when connecting the 2.5mm stereo jack) takes a pic after 5sec, then after 3sec..
I probably left out some steps and information, usually when I work I do not write things down so its mostly just from memory. If you have any questions I will try to answer as best I can.