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Step 5Wiring
SUMMARY:
Using easily obtained components, the light is safely wired without undue complications.
Compact fluorescent bulbs (CFL) are used to save energy.
DETAIL:
The first step in wiring is to get the socket brackets installed in each of the four socket holes in the wood base.
After threading the brackets onto the pieces of threaded rod, I used a nail puller to lock the components together by squeezing the threaded portion into an oval shape. Now, these won't come apart easily.
Place the brackets in the socket holes, through the lock washers, and tighten the nuts on the other end of the threaded rod. The third photo in the series shows a detail of this assembly.
Next comes attaching short lengths of wire to the ceramic sockets. You will need lamp cord in these lengths:
-2 lengths of at least 5.75 inches
-2 lengths of at least 7.75 inches
The lamp cord should have one conductor that is smooth and one that is grooved. The smooth conductor will always be attached to the HOT side of the electrical connections; here it means attaching the smooth wire to the brass screw in the ceramic sockets and the grooved wire to the silver screw.
Now the ceramic sockets are installed by first running the lamp cord through the threaded rod, then fastening the sockets to the brackets in the wood base.
The last length of lamp cord to prepare is for the switch and plug, and can be as long as you like. Mine is about 8 feet long.
Run one end through the wire exit hole in the wood base, split the conductors for a length of about two inches, and tie a knot with one of the conductors. The fifth photo shows how your project should look after this task.
Before you connect the wires, take a moment to observe how all of the wire and connectors will fit into the central hole. If you gave yourself some slack wire to work with, now is the time to trim the wires to get a good fit in the hole.
All of the smooth conductors must be connected together, and all of the grooved conductors must be connected together, using the crimping connectors.
Be sure that you cannot pull apart the connections, then shove the connectors into the central hole.
A good place to put the switch is within 2 feet of the fixture. The inline switch interrupts only one lamp cord conductor; be sure that you use it to interrupt the smooth (HOT) lamp cord conductor.
When attaching the plug, connect the smooth (HOT) conductor to the plug's narrow (HOT) prong. The grooved conductor should be connected to the plug's wide prong.
The last thing to do is to make sure that the connections stay in the hole. I made a simple cover with a piece of scrap steel, and fastened it with two small wood screws. Check out the last photo.
Well? What are you waiting for? Install some light bulbs and test it out!
Using easily obtained components, the light is safely wired without undue complications.
Compact fluorescent bulbs (CFL) are used to save energy.
DETAIL:
The first step in wiring is to get the socket brackets installed in each of the four socket holes in the wood base.
After threading the brackets onto the pieces of threaded rod, I used a nail puller to lock the components together by squeezing the threaded portion into an oval shape. Now, these won't come apart easily.
Place the brackets in the socket holes, through the lock washers, and tighten the nuts on the other end of the threaded rod. The third photo in the series shows a detail of this assembly.
Next comes attaching short lengths of wire to the ceramic sockets. You will need lamp cord in these lengths:
-2 lengths of at least 5.75 inches
-2 lengths of at least 7.75 inches
The lamp cord should have one conductor that is smooth and one that is grooved. The smooth conductor will always be attached to the HOT side of the electrical connections; here it means attaching the smooth wire to the brass screw in the ceramic sockets and the grooved wire to the silver screw.
Now the ceramic sockets are installed by first running the lamp cord through the threaded rod, then fastening the sockets to the brackets in the wood base.
The last length of lamp cord to prepare is for the switch and plug, and can be as long as you like. Mine is about 8 feet long.
Run one end through the wire exit hole in the wood base, split the conductors for a length of about two inches, and tie a knot with one of the conductors. The fifth photo shows how your project should look after this task.
Before you connect the wires, take a moment to observe how all of the wire and connectors will fit into the central hole. If you gave yourself some slack wire to work with, now is the time to trim the wires to get a good fit in the hole.
All of the smooth conductors must be connected together, and all of the grooved conductors must be connected together, using the crimping connectors.
Be sure that you cannot pull apart the connections, then shove the connectors into the central hole.
A good place to put the switch is within 2 feet of the fixture. The inline switch interrupts only one lamp cord conductor; be sure that you use it to interrupt the smooth (HOT) lamp cord conductor.
When attaching the plug, connect the smooth (HOT) conductor to the plug's narrow (HOT) prong. The grooved conductor should be connected to the plug's wide prong.
The last thing to do is to make sure that the connections stay in the hole. I made a simple cover with a piece of scrap steel, and fastened it with two small wood screws. Check out the last photo.
Well? What are you waiting for? Install some light bulbs and test it out!
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May 19, 2010. 12:23 PMmoogeez91
says:
another idea is that you could use the new LED light bulbs. They are rather expensive by only draw about 5 watts per bulb and produce the same amount as a standard bulb. plus these curly lights have some nasty chemicals in them including mercury.
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