Alright so considering I have over 20 weaves I've decided to condense these into 4 separate categories, and just run through the steps in each variant. Note feel free to visit my site: http://poptoppaladin.com/ for HQ instructions and more individualized tutorials. There's also a gallery page and an about page talking about how my Soda Can Chain Mail came about. For reference all my weaves are original and I've only seen 1-2 styles that are close to mine on the internet, and I felt it would be better to show off my work and inspire others to make their own soda can chain mail.

This category is the weird stuff, these combine use of larger rings to make very unique weaves, and this is much harder than the other 3 categories (think of this as the advanced section to TabMailling)

Things needed.

Tabs - A whole lot of them, see each step for Sq Ft. per weave, but note it varies from 300-800 per sq. ft.
Rings - The rings used here are (Machine Cut) Bright Aluminum Rings I purchase mine from TheRingLord most weaves you need just about as many rings as you have tabs. I'll tell you in each tutorial what each weave requires.
Pliers - Again I use the RingLord's plier set - it's cheap and for over 4 years of use they've been perfect in every way. You can use your own pliers though.
Cutters - For Captured ChainTab for reference on how to do ChainTab visit this tutorial.
Time - These are harder still than ChainTab or TabMail, and it's very easy to confuse things and have to redo work.

I'll cover a couple different styles here each in it's own "step"

Step 1: Captured ChainTab

This is a very complex weave simply for the amount of steps, and the nature of combining TabMail with ChainTab elements. This uses 16 ga 1/4 AR 4.2 & 16 ga 5/16 AR 5.3 Bright Aluminum Rings

    Difficulty: 5/5 – This has 20+ steps for a reason
    Flexibility: 3/5 – Vertically it only flexes a bit, but it’s surprisingly moveable.
    Tabs per sq. ft: ~850
    1/4 Rings per sq. ft: ~475
    5/16 Rings per sq. ft: ~75

1. Start off with some 2-ChainTab (just 3 long as shown) – although you’ll want a couple of these.

2. Add some more cut tabs to the top.

3. And connect to make a 2-4-2 chain.

4. Now thread a 5/16 through the middle and close (should only surround the 4 tabs middle bars.)

5. Lay out 2 sets of tabs back-to-back, and for the top add a tab with the bottom half sticking out (between the 2 back-to-back tabs) and do the same but with the top sticking out in the bottom set.

6. Now switch to 1/4 rings (You only use 5/16 in the middle of the 4 tabs), and connect the bottom group.

7. And the top.

8. Now thread a 1/4 ring through the 5/16 and the 2 overlapping tabs (make sure the top one is facing – actually you can do it the other way – just keep it consistent)

Now here’s where you can “customize” see below is actually a swatch where the TabMail section is only 1 – wide. (This tutorial follows a 2 – wide pattern) but essentially you can make it as wide as you like, and best of all it doesn’t need to match you can make one part 3 wide than 1 wide then 3 wide again.

9. Since I’m making mine 2 wide though I set myself out another 2 groups as from step 5.

10. And connect.

11. Here you make as many (sections) as you’d like depending on your width (I have just 2 for this tutorial).

12. I find it’s easiest to connect the middle tab, but you’ll connect everything in the next step anyway.

13. The 2 sections connected.

14. I finish it off by adding an end chain.

15. Now you add a middle tab to the top of the section connecting down the whole line, and make sure you leave an empty space for the sections where you’ll add more ChainTab, but that they are connected to the rings as well.

16. Add your other swatch (as wide as before), but add the tabs to the bottom section.

17. Now add 4 tabs in the 4-ChainTab manor to the bottom of the upper section.

18. And connect them to the bottom section.

19. Now add that 5/16 ring to the middle bar of the 4 tabs, and connect the 2 overlapping tabs with a 1/4 ring.

20. And connect the 5/16 ring to the TabMail section (note this will require a lot of “finicking.”

21. Here’s the completed section from above, as you see the larger the piece the more it looks like the 4-Chain is studded out and “captured” inbetween the TabMail, hence the name.
Can you do a vid on how well it stands damage<br>
<p>Might be a good idea for the future, I'll need to get some various weapons to test with though (my friend who I previously sword tested this against live in Utah now.)</p>
What type of wire do you use<br>
I get Machine Cut Rings from: http://theringlord.com/cart/shopdisplayproducts.asp?id=16&amp;cat=Machine+Cut+Bright+Aluminum+Jump+Rings <br> <br>I use 16ga, and the size varies depending on weave.
so, how about the mobility of this armor ? is it comfortable ?
It's not uncomfortable, it's not like wearing silk. The main peice requires an undershirt, but I can wear the arm/leg pieces without covering the whole underside in cloth and wear it for days. The only downside is that you get covered in Aluminum dust, you can't really scratch your back or do something like touch your toes, but I can generally move around okay. My current action is a actually a redesign to make it easier for me to move, and get on/off - previously I needed help to get it off me, but I'm hoping to fix that.
nice build! I'm saving tabs thisone! <br>How bendable is this? <br>Aren't your arm movements limited by the chainmail? <br>and the final question: why not using just one layer of chains? <br>Thanks
I'm not sure which weave you're discussing here so I'll be complete. The arm movements are certainly limited by the chainmail - it's not like you'll be scratching your back! Otherwise though it's fairly bendable and useable - that's the benefit of the redesigned piece that you see above which is blending different weave style together to form a cohesive piece, but a useable piece. <br> <br>The other weaves themselves have a marker of their mobility, generally you get it to bed one way nicely, and the other not so much. <br> <br>As for just a single layer - I suppose you refer to that most of my weaves are double-sided (TabScale which is shown on my elbow here is not) This solves 2 things. 1. The backside of the tabs tends to be a bit rougher than the nice side. I do make sure that tabs are not having anything protruding, but since I often wear this with a light shirt it wouldn't bode well to have a little bit pricking me annoyingly. <br>2. It makes it wildly stronger. If you take a look at some of my other styles they have only a single layer, and therefore they are often not used on an armor piece. I know this thing isn't 'battle' made chainmail despite how well it's done in my testing, but I often wear this for an extended period over a few days for conventions - and if the armor is not strong enough it could weaken the tabs just by sitting wrong, or bumping into something. <br>
Excellent work!!!!!!!
where do you get all your tabs?
I mention this on my own page - but donations really. I mean I've either collected them myself, from friends, family, and anyone who they know and can harass on a long enough basis to get them to me. I've had a few people just send me tabs after seeing it at cons as well. <br> <br>If you are looking to get your own, and don't have the 7+ years I did to tab all of the pieces, old pieces, mistakes, and repairs that I needed you can get them easily enough. When I had a store I ordered tabs from Ebay of all places - basically just calculated tab/money ratio and picked the best - I still have a small box of 'bought tabs' for work on commissions I sometimes do for people.
Increible nivel de trabajo, esto esta para una pelicula. <br> <br>Saludos.
Excellent work! Well done :-)

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