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This project was built with wood and the solar panel / light from a low cost walkway light. The octagon shape can be scaled up or down. The dimensions for this birdhouse (see drawing) were optimized for a House Finch size bird. There are multiple sources that can provide optimum sizing for birdhouses. I used the following website:

House Dimensions: http://birding.about.com/od/Building/a/Bird-House...

Hole Sizing: http://birding.about.com/od/birdhouses/a/birdhous...

Check out the Video for highlights:

Step 1: Drawing

Refer to the drawing for all dimensions:

https://drive.google.com/#folders/0B21TbB8gGNQbc01...

<p>OK, a family member already asked the obvious question. Why would a bird want a solar lit home? Does it make sense?</p><p>Answer:</p><p>I have no idea. I was thinking the same thing half way through the project. Note that the light is very dim and if take a look at the plans, you will see that the house section is separated from the light section (solid wall). Therefore, the bird should be <br>able to get a good nights rest - my opionion :). If you still think this is a bad idea, sub the light for a plant or don't include the top section</p>
<p>I was thinking the same thing. &quot;KIDS! Shut the lights off!&quot; But I live in Michigan and it doesn't get very dark here at times so I guess the birds will be just fine with it. Nice build. </p>
<p>I have a little question regarding the &quot;rain catchment system&quot; on top: Won't that kinda shorten the lifespan of the luxury home?</p>
<p>This version should help with the draining issue:</p><p><a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B21TbB8gGNQbSUl2azZvdklwQ2M/edit?usp=sharing" rel="nofollow">https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B21TbB8gGNQbSUl2a...</a></p>
<p>My goal was to hide the light so yes I built a &quot;rain catch&quot;. However, the light holes around the perimeter should allow the water to drain. Note that the actual holes are closer (almost flush) to the floor - not centered as shown in the CAD model. If I have time, I will update the model and send a new PDF. BTW, I would have built nicer windows if I had better woodworking skills. </p>
<p>This is in regards to the pictures shown in Step 9 (45 degree cuts for the Octagon). It was pointed out to me on a Woodworking forum that I shouldn't used the table saw fence as a cut off guide for crosscutting since it can result in kickback.</p><p>From Hammer1 @ Woodworkingtalk.com:</p><p>As shown, if the work piece should move, it is trapped between the fence and the spinning blade. At the minimum, you should have the fence back farther than the corner to corner measurement of the work piece, long way. Rather than using the fence for a stop where the work stays in contact with it through the cut, you can clamp a block to the fence, or just the front edge of the table. The work brought against it just like you did with the fence but as you slide forward, the work is free. The work piece should, in most cases, be supported on the miter head. You have the work piece unsupported.<br></p><p>A better option for quality cuts is to add a long wood bar to the miter gauge head. The face is often covered with sandpaper glued on for a non slip surface. A stop block can be clamped to the wood bar for repetitive cuts. It also gives great support to the piece. Just remember to always go forward only, don't ever back up. If you pull the miter bar back while the saw is spinning, watch that your hands are centered to the miter gauge slot in the table. </p>
of course.... any bird would like a solar lit house to live in...great idea...think I'll build one...great conversation piece...
<p>Very nice, I like it! I've tried building angular stuff like this, and know how those joints can be tricky sometimes. Thank goodness for woodfiller :)</p>
<p>Wow, that is beautiful! </p>
<p>Thank you.</p>
<p>Drawing file link</p><p><a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B21TbB8gGNQbUjV3UUZHOUZzT1k/edit?usp=sharing" rel="nofollow">https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B21TbB8gGNQbUjV3U...</a></p>

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Bio: I like to design and build random things.
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