The amp is meant to be used outdoors in the sun so there was no need for a battery. Also even if I charged a 9VDC battery it would only last about 15-20 minutes inside anyway.
Comments as always are very welcome. This is my first time powering anything with the sun.
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I found these speaker boxes at a rummage sale, they cost me $4 for both. What a deal!! You should be able to use any detachable speakers for this. great if you have a dead boom box or have scrounged the parts out of one, say to use a tape head for a tape delay. (instructable coming soon as i can scrounge enough tape heads)
Amplifier circuit:
LM386 Amplifier chip
5K linear potentiometer
1M audio potentiometer
100uf capacitor
.1uf capacitor
.047uf capacitor
10 Ohm resistor
Solar panels/power section:
1N4001 diode
2 x 2200uf electrolytic capacitors
I found 9VDC at 100mA seemed to be the magic number for me. I got mine through American Science & Surplus at 4.5 VDC by 50 mA you need 4 of these.
A sheet of plexi to mount the panels to
A hollow ball joint to feed the power wires from the inside of the speaker housing










































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Cool instructible! Well, It isnt' very Important which wire goes where on a speaker, because they are Powered by AC.
How about using an amplifier which is a bit more powerful? But then you'll have to store the energy out of the solar cells in a lead battery or so.
if you have a loud signal, say from a guitar with the knobs all at maximum, and you turn the gain up, the signal will start distorting. because of this distortion, the signal gets compressed and sounds louder. see this wikipedia article, http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Clipping_(audio)
Volume, again assuming it is not mislabeled, only controls the output to the speaker. In most cases it is a variable resistor driving the between full out signal and ground. Turn the knob up and the resistance increases to ground so more signal goes to the speaker. Turn volume down and the resistance to ground decreases and more signal goes to ground than the speaker. Alternatively you can control how much input goes to the circuit, which is what I did. R3 on the schematic controls how much of the input goes to the amp. By controlling volume at the beginning, I could use cheaper parts since they wouldn't see the high wattage that goes to the speaker.
Does that help?
you are right that there are so many places to get things. through the years i have, through trial and error, found some to be better than others for certain things. it all depends on what you want and how much. i think it is great that people share their sources like you did on these pages because we can all learn from each other's experiences and in doing so benefit all of us which after all is the point of this whole site.
here are some of the main suppliers i use (depending on what i need):
http://www.jameco.com/
http://www.goldmine-elec-products.com/
http://www.futurecb.com/store/default.aspx
http://www.digikey.com/
http://www.mouser.com/
http://www.sparkfun.com/commerce/categories.php
http://www.elexp.com/
https://www.em.avnet.com/home/
http://www.opamp-electronics.com/
http://www.circuitspecialists.com/
http://www.futurlec.com/index.shtml
http://www.minute-man.com/acatalog/
http://www.alltronics.com/cgi-bin/category.cgi?category=0
http://www.surplussales.com/
http://www.electrospec.com/?cid=globalspec
https://www.onlinemetals.com/
http://www.chemsavers.com/
http://www.caswellplating.com/
http://www.harborfreight.com/
happy new year everyone :-)
WL
Have you considered trying the runoffgroove ruby circuits? or the Beavis audio research noisy cricket circuits, essentially a ruby on steroids? They both have a jfet buffer/booster on the input which helps the sound out a lot.
Here are the links to the different sites
http://www.runoffgroove.com/
http://www.beavisaudio.com/