Update: I replaced the Schottky diode with a MAX1555 Li-Ion cell charging IC. Thanks go to moldboy and Kohaku for their input on making the charging circuit safer.
What you need :
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An e-reader, I use a first gen Kobo, but I'm sure this is also possible with any other.
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Some solar panels, like these. Perfect size and voltage and decent power too.
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A Schottky diode , you can get this at any shop that sells electronic parts. You need a diode to prevent discharge of the battery. The advantage of using a Schottky diode is the lower voltage drop.
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A MAX1551 or MAX1555 IC. They operate with no external FETs or diodes, and accept operating input voltages up to 7V, so very easy to implement. Here is a datasheet. I ordered a sample from the manufacturer.
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A SOT23 to DIP breakout board. You need this, because it's quite hard to solder wires directly to the MAX1551/1555, since it's so small. I got this from eBay.
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A small capacitor, to make life a little easier for our MAX1551/1555. I used a ceramic one I had laying around.
- Some wires, a soldering iron, solder, a dremel and padded double sided tape. A multi-meter can also come in handy.
Here are some minor technical details:
This e-reader (as most of them are) is powered by a 3.7V li-ion polymer battery. These kinds of batteries need pretty tricky charging curves: fast at first and trickle charge till full, then the current stops, since over charging can be dangerous. For this reason I replaced the Schottky diode I used before with a MAX1555 charging IC. A Schottky diode also works, but it can damage the battery in certain circumstances.
The specifications of these solar panels claim that they can do 80mA, but after some measurements I came to the conclusion that in reality they will only reach about 50mA. Adding the two panels together we come to 100mA. This means that they should be able to charge the battery from nothing to full in about 10 hours. However, the charging current is controlled by an IC and will be lower during the later half of the charging cycle.
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Signing UpStep 1Taking apart the e-reader.
Detach the battery wires from the main board and remove the battery.
Remove the four screws and carefully lift the PCB with attached screen from the rear panel. There is also some clear plastic behind the main board, don't lose this.
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It might be possible to do this to other e-readers, though.
It make me want to solar power more things now :)
It would be possible to cut a trace and add an inline diode to the USB as well but that might cause a voltage drop and prevent the charger from working. (Though it could be specified at 4.5V and USB is typicaly 5 so a 0.3 drop diod would be doable as well. I have a kindle not a kobo so I can't say for sure how easy that would be. You may have to use surface mount parts to make everything fit better, but there isn't any challenge there. In fact you can probably find a dual Schottky diode in a small SOT package that would allow you to separate the USB and Solar but still have them both power the charger circuit.
I'll see if I can find a MAX1551/1555.
A slightly less invasive method would be to add a charging socket and attach the solar panels on the outside of the casing.
Bob
I can't wait to see the improved version with the circuit to save the battery.
How many lifetime would have the Solar Cells?
Is not detailed in the DX web. Maybe in the attached docs.
http://www.instructables.com/id/Solar-DS-quotLightquot-Redone-and-Greatly-Impr/
I don't want to seem like a spammer, I just want to prevent a battery disaster :-)
Maybe I should apply this same mod to my DS! :)
Then when I want to hook up my Palm to my computer, I plug it straight into the computer or USB extension cord. Don't have to worry about discharge, and don't have to remember to bring my USB cord anywhere :)
Cool instructable.
Li-ion batteries have a maximum cell voltage of 4.1 or 4.2 volts. Anything more than this and you cause serious long term damage to the battery. The proper li-ion charge cycle starts off with a continuous current charge mode, that is at less than 4.2 (or 4.1) volts a constant current is supplied to the battery. Again anything more than 4.2 V and you damage the battery. The current is not too important as long as you don't exceed the battery maximum. After some time the the battery voltage will rise, when the battery voltage rises to 4.2 volts the charge mode switches to constant voltage mode. That is to maintain the 4.2 volts the charge current has to decrease. The charger will continue to charge the battery with a decreasing current until some predetermined cutoff point, usually <10% of the charging current. There is then, in some cases, a trickle charge state that keeps the battery full. Depending on the battery this isn't always advisable.
What this design does is supply a voltage of around 4.5 - 5.3 volts (depending on the panel and diode) at a random current, which is going to destroy the battery. Some batteries like being trickle charged (like car batteries) li-ion batteries do not.
You are right about the voltage being too high, but I don't think this will destroy the battery, as long as you do not put the solar panels in direct sunlight when the battery is already full. I could be wrong, of course, but this is a very simple circuit and not meant for extreme circumstances.
It is always possible to put in a regular diode with a higher voltage drop or a small Li-ion charge circuit, although that would make the whole thing less efficient.