NEW!: I have added the adjustable base, so whether you're fine soldering on surface parallel to your bench top, or you prefer to have your board at an angle, this can accommodate your needs! stay tuned, fume extra will be done soon!
The soldering assistant is a project idea I had to have my soldering supplies conveniently in one spot. The Solder spool holder is close to the work area to have a read supply of solder to feed directly from the spool. The soldering assistant also features and adjustable vise to hold your projects securely as you assemble them. Just behind the work area is a parts bin, to put your resistors, capacitors, IC's tweezers or other supplies. Side "fins" make it possible to make custom add-ons that can just snap into place. The only part that isn't printable through a 3d printer is the center threaded rod that moves the base, this is a 1/4" threaded rod that can be purchased at any local hardware store. 2 hex nuts are also required, one that fits into the moving side of the platform, and one on the stationary side. This is an entry for the "Make it real Challenge" contest. If you like the design, please vote, Thanks.
**UPDATE**
The angled platform can be added as an accessory, or use the Soldering assistant without this accessory as shown in the gallery pictures. The adjustable platform pivots on a pin at the front of the base. At the rear of the base is a "C" shaped channel that also pivots, and there is a T-shaped cylinder the rides the inside of this channel. To adjust the height, the user would simply have to tilt the platform forward, lining up the position holes on the C channel, then insert the pin through the C channel and into the T cylinder. There is one on each side of the platform for stability. No more hunching over to work on your PCB's! This allows you to work in a more comfortable position. Special thanks to those who commented and suggested an angled platform!
The soldering assistant is a project idea I had to have my soldering supplies conveniently in one spot. The Solder spool holder is close to the work area to have a read supply of solder to feed directly from the spool. The soldering assistant also features and adjustable vise to hold your projects securely as you assemble them. Just behind the work area is a parts bin, to put your resistors, capacitors, IC's tweezers or other supplies. Side "fins" make it possible to make custom add-ons that can just snap into place. The only part that isn't printable through a 3d printer is the center threaded rod that moves the base, this is a 1/4" threaded rod that can be purchased at any local hardware store. 2 hex nuts are also required, one that fits into the moving side of the platform, and one on the stationary side. This is an entry for the "Make it real Challenge" contest. If you like the design, please vote, Thanks.
**UPDATE**
The angled platform can be added as an accessory, or use the Soldering assistant without this accessory as shown in the gallery pictures. The adjustable platform pivots on a pin at the front of the base. At the rear of the base is a "C" shaped channel that also pivots, and there is a T-shaped cylinder the rides the inside of this channel. To adjust the height, the user would simply have to tilt the platform forward, lining up the position holes on the C channel, then insert the pin through the C channel and into the T cylinder. There is one on each side of the platform for stability. No more hunching over to work on your PCB's! This allows you to work in a more comfortable position. Special thanks to those who commented and suggested an angled platform!
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-Franky
TY for sharing Sir.
1. REPLACE THE TREADED ROD WITH AN IRWIN SQUEEZE CLAMP AND ATTACH THE FRONT AND REAR VISE FACES TO IT FOR ONE HAND CLAMPING.
2. MOUNT AN UNUSED 12 VOLT COMPUTER FAN TO DRAW FUMES AWAY FROM WORK AREA TOWARD THE BACK( NOT FULL FUME EXTRACTION, BUT GETS THEM OUT OF YOUR FACE!)
3. ATTACH THE CLAMP TO A BASE WITH AN ARCHED CURVING SLOT AND A HINGE TO ALLOW TILTING TOWARD THE FRONT AND LOCKING IT IN PLACE WITH A BOLT WITH A KNOB AND A T-NUT.
4. ATTACHING SOME LARGE (5 OR 10 MM) LEDS TO STIFF ,HEAVY COPPER WIRES TO CREATE FLEXIBLE LIGHTING FOR TOUGH TO SEE AREAS.
5. USING SAME METHOD FOR ATTACHING A COUPLE OF ALLIGATOR CLIPS(HOMEMADE HELPING HANDS.
6. MAKING AN EXTENSION MOUNTING A HOT AIR GUN WITH CONCENTRATOR TIPS FOR SMD REWORKING AND SOLDER RE FLOW JOBS.
7. MOUNT A GOOD MAGNIFIYER LENS TO A FLEXABLE ARM FOR CLOSE-UP WORK AND READING SMALL PRINT ON COMPONET PARTS , FOLLOWING CURCUIT TRACES ON PRINTED CIRCUIT BOARDS, USING ABOVE MENTIONED LEDS TO BACK LIGHT BOARDS FOR LESS GLARE FROM PADS ON PROJECT BOARDS,
AND FOR TRACEING DOUBLE SIDED PCB'S TO TROUBLESHOOT PROBLEMS.
ANY OR ALL OF THESE MOD'S WILL JUST ENHANCE USABLITY OF YOUR IDEA, AND ADD TO THE LEVEL OF CUSTOMIZATION FOR INDVIDUAL NEEDS. BY THE WAY, CONCEPT IS VERY USER FRIENDLY AND DEFINITLY A MUCH NEEDED PROJECT FOR ANY HOME ELECTRONICS HOBBIST- NICE GOING!!
EMOTEC IN TEXAS
For the input on the case fan, I actually have a design started that is using a 80mm case fan, with a removable cartridge that holds filters specifically made for fume extractors, so the filter can be replaced when needed.
Led suggestion sounds good. Initially thought about mounting the led's to the fume extractor but didn't work out the way I planned.
I love the idea for the hot air. I can't believe I didn't think of that! especially since I just acquired a hot air gun. Ive seen the hot air holders that help keep the nozzle at a set distance from the board. Ill probably make this an addition.
My ultimate goal is to have an all in one type system for the electronic hobbyist. Input from everyone has really helped. Thanks
By the way- just voted for you in the Make-it-real contest--good luck!! Win a nice prize!
Emotec in Texas
This would work well for our contest as well: http://www.teklalabs.org/3dprinting/
You should submit it. You can win some cool stuff.
I hope to see your entry.
Todd
Tekla Labs - teklalabs.org
As I noticed many suggestions for a variety of things to be added or changed, I thought I might as well chime in and offer some suggestions.
-- request for elastics rather than threaded rod -> an environment like this is tough on elastics, they dry out and break quickly. As an alternative to the concern of having to wind/unwind, just use a more coarse threaded rod that will release the vice with only a turn or two. The vice idea is great because it will allow it to be used on other non-pcb tasks.
-- request for fume hood -> rather than go to a lot of trouble, how about this? Simply add a slot across the length of the back "wall" where the moving portion of the vice would park when full-open. Inside the hollow under the parts bin you would place your 12v fan blowing out the several holes in the back wall under the solder spool. The air movement, which doesn't need to be much at all, would pull fumes from the work area away from your face. Run it from a wall-wart, plus it wouldn't need a filter since it's just flux fumes and there's nothing to catch.
-- request for an iron holder -> you can buy cheap iron stands with the coiled wire for less than $10, simply remove the spring and mount it to the side of the box using one or two tapped holes.
-- request for articulated clamps -> again, you can buy a "helping hands" device that has a pair of clips and even a magnifying glass for under $10. Remove the base and mount it wherever you want, like on the sliding vice leaf so it's positionable.
The beauty of such a great design is that it's easily modified for whatever you need or can dream up, especially with the provisions of the mounting tangs for expansion. You could even add a pair of those flexible computer lights and run it off the fan power, if you go that route...the possibilities are endless.
Great job!!!
On the elastics, I agree, They dry, and break over time, Not to mention if you accidentally touched one with the hot end of the iron for even a second it can tear, loosen the tension, drop the PCB, and cause a headache if you're working on SMT parts.
Fume hood, I was thinking the same, about running a funnel type opening along the backside, this would work fine if the platform does not have adjustable angle settings. But, since I am actually working on a rev for the vise section to have angle settings, I need to think of a new design.
For the light, you actually gave me a great idea to integrate the cone shaped desk lamp with a fume extractor. Since I will be working on the fume extractor soon, This gives opportunity to get two birds with one stone.
Thanx,
Loumsc
Considering you have the grooved sides and you are intending to use the device for soldering and not as a general tool vice, all of your relatively minor forces will be in the vetical plane so you wont need the added rigidity of a threaded rod to clamp it latteraly. would make it a lot quicker and easier to move the pcb around as you work without having to unwind it every time. You could always include the option of using a threaded rod and adding the vice functionality to it as well although that would nesecitte mor drilling, tapping etc.
you can add 9v battery below parts tray and make stand for soldering iron
Nicely done, clean finish, and it just look plain awesome!
5*
@crackHacker, I'll be looking into adding a tilt feature to the workspace. The good part about the design, is its made to snap together, So adding a til, or even an extra degree of movement and easily be accomplished.
@mr.sour, Are you saying a iron holder? I was thinking about it, but need to find a metal coil/base that protects the heated part of the iron, otherwise printed parts might not hold up to the heat! Although I Have a small sketch of a holder, which needs a few adjustments to be compatible with more than one iron handle design.
@cekpi7, I actually haven't thought about the fume extractor. Thanks for the suggestion! I will work on one, then add it to this Instructable when I have a good design going. If more people don't really dig the parts bin, I already have an idea to integrate the fan/fume extractor into the piece where the parts bin is, since its partially hollow. And Ill most likely add a 2" flexible hose to help get a stronger suction from a smaller fan, Which might be battery powered, or 9-12V DC