A solid state Tesla coil is one of the kinds of Tesla coils available. It has several advantages over the more common spark gap tesla coil. They are less louder than conventional Tesla coils, yet they can still achieve a respectable output. They can also be made to play music through its spark, which is a cool effect. Examples of this trick can be seen by searching for musical tesla coil or singing tesla coil. They are also more friendly to nearby electronic apparatus, although caution should still be applied.

In the following instructable, I will show you how to make a solid state Tesla coil, as well as several helpful tips and hints that will come handy during its construction. I take no credit for the original design, which is Steve Ward's, with some small modifications "here and there."

While fiddling with the antenna, I accidentally burnt both of the Mosfets, so bear in mind this design is far from perfect. I'm still posting the instructable, as some of the techniques I used may be interesting to some. Try at your own risks. Results may vary.

If you like this instructable, please rate it and vote my instructable for the contest.

Step 1: Tesla Coil Parts

     A Solid State Tesla coil is made by four main parts: the primary coil, the secondary coil, the topload, and the control circuitry.

The Secondary : The secondary is the long, orange cylinder. It is actually a white PVC pipe covered by a lot of enameled wire. One side is connected to ground, high voltage comes through the other side.

The Primary : The primary is powered by the control circuitry and it generates the magnetic field that the secondary uses to create the high voltage. It is the few turns of thick wire at the base of the secondary coil.

The Topload : The topload is the metallic object at the top of the secondary coil.  It provides a capacitance to the Tesla coil.

The Control Circuitry : The circuits that make the tesla coil work at the correct frequency and duty cycle; based on Steve Ward's design. 
<p>Would electrical tape instead of electrical glue work as well for attaching the secondary coil to the aluminum ducting?</p>
<p>can you put a link of the schematic in the discription?</p><p>Great protject,</p><p>thanks, Noud</p>
<p></p><p>Hello,</p><p>I finished a coil using the following material</p><p>I used a BD135 transistor, one Resistor - 47k 1/2w, 9V battery, 6 turns primary coil, 2400 turns secondary.</p><p>There is no spark, but it successfully lights lamps. There is though a small <br>problem. When I approach a lamp to the coil, the lamp lights but if I <br>leave it there <br>the lighting lasts only for 80-90 seconds and then fades away.</p><p>I have to close the circuit for some time and open it again to make it light again.</p><p>Have you faced this problem? Can you help me with this?</p><p>I would appreciate if anybody has some idea about this</p><p></p>
Is there a materials list for this project? I'm afraid that I will forget something because I missed it.
<p>This is a little late, but if you do not want to play music, and just want electric arcs, then a spark gap Tesla coil is the way to go. They are less complicated, more dependable, and cheaper than this version.</p>
<p>Also, is the circuit nessary if I just want the tesla coil to produce sparks?</p>
Can you please post a list of all the components to build the circuitry cause I cant really make out what you need from the picture provided
<p>im a new here and a just begining to lern this stuff, my question what is tha differance between wave length and frequency? does a tesla coil have to be a certin frequency? or can you adjust it how ever you want. from low to high in Hertz</p>
Wave length is just a different way of interpreting frequency. <br><br>Once designed there is still some room for adjustment, there are certain variables (spark gap, primary coil tap, torroid size) and certain constants (secondary coil turns and diameter, cap bank, power supply), so you would design it with these in mind. Parts availability and finances are the usual governing factors though ;)<br><br>The link below should provide you with a basic understanding.<br>Semiconductor TCs run on the same principle, and must be tuned accordingly. <br><br>http://deepfriedneon.com/tesla_guide.html
<p>What can i use to power my Tesla coil?</p>
<p>I used a regular power supply at 24v though a PWM-OCXi for its protection and the duty/frequency adjustments.</p><p><a href="http://www.rmcybernetics.com/shop/pulse-modulator-ocxi" rel="nofollow">http://www.rmcybernetics.com/shop/pulse-modulator-ocxi</a></p>
<p>Hi Michael, </p><p>I am making this Tesla coil for a school project. I had a couple of questions. In other designs of an SSTC, there is no mention of a start-up circuit. What is this circuit doing exactly? Also, is it possible to have a GDT at the output of the IR2110 for better isolation of the high-voltage and the low-voltage side?</p>
<p>Exactly what Steve has done and exactly the reason why he said follow steve's design....</p>
<p>Steve is using a diferrent MOSFET driver IC. I just needed to be sure.</p>
<p>i dont have made it yet. But how to Power it up or is it self-charging and no battery or something that?</p>
<p>Would you sent me the schematic and the components of your tesla coil ? <br>shiro.jauhari@gmail.com Please.....</p>
<p>Which exact diodes should I use for the bridge rectifier? I noticed the ones on steve ward's design are unlabeled and I couldn't tell what the ones where on your schematic. What should their ratings be? </p>
<p>How much would this hurt/kill if you were to be shocked by it?</p>
<p>The streamers probably won't hurt much, or at all. This is because the frequency is above what our nerves can sense. It still does damage so you should avoid it, but it wouldn't hurt.</p><p>On the other hand, the primary and the large DC caps can definitely hurt and/or kill if you touch them while charged.</p>
<p>That knowledge increased the amount of fun im going to have with this then</p>
<p>What input voltage does this need? As I have a set up for a 20kV capacitance power supply, would this work in place of the mentioned control circuitry?</p>
<p>What you are thinking about is a spark gap Tesla coil, which requires a high voltage supply. A solid state Tesla coil does not require this, as it works with mains voltage.</p><p>If you were to build a spark gap (not this instructable) tesla coil, your power supply probably wouldn't work; although I cannot be certain without knowing the current rating of your supply (20kV is plenty, but those usually have low current ratings).</p>
<p>Thank you for that</p>
<p>could i use a SMPS from a PC as a powersupply, the blue(-12v) wire for 12v and white(-5v) for 5v?</p>
<p>I wouldn't recommend it. SMPS tend to be more sensitive to electromagnetic noise; which the Tesla Coil produces in abundance. I'd recommend a transformer. If you go for a SMPS, it may or may not work.</p>
<p>i tried connecting using the -ve lines from my SMPS, and my ucc37322 blew, other components were left intact. My SMPS was kept a little far away from my coil and i was running the coil at 48v. </p>
Do you know how many volts the output of this tesla is? As in how many volts can its magnetic field power? You can test this by putting light bulbs in it and seeing the highest on it can power.
<p>You cannot test a voltage on a Tesla coil by putting light bulbs; I recommend you to read clearly the difference between voltage, current, and power to see why. Most household light bulbs (not counting cars) operate at 120V; the Tesla will light them all to varying degrees.</p><p>At these voltages, unless you have a (extremely expensive) high voltage ac meter, acquiring a precise measurement is unlikely. A (very vague guess) would be between 100kv and 500 kv.</p>
Sorry I don't know why it sent three
Do you know how many volts the output of this tesla is? As in how many volts can its magnetic field power? You can test this by putting light bulbs in it and seeing the highest on it can power.
Do you know how many volts the output of this tesla is? As in how many volts can its magnetic field power? You can test this by putting light bulbs in it and seeing the highest on it can power.
Hi Chen.. <br>Could you tell me how wattage or ampere (240V or (120V) x I?? = watts) when your tesla coilworking.Thank you so much
could i use irfp460 and increase the input voltage to about 220v? and what is the resistance of R4 and R3?
Could I get a nice list of materials? I'm looking to go somewhere and buy what I need... And I'd prefer to know what I need to get thanks
I have a 4.25 OD PVC pipe, should I be fine? I also was wondering what length I should make the secondary winding, because you have yours as 17 inches, and Steve's is only 10
Actually, tesla coils are not really that sensitive to coil specifications, as long as the aspect ratio is still close enough. Your pvc pipe is just fine.<br><br><br>Regarding the length, either one will work. In fact, steve ward's sstc 1 (which has a similar topology) has a 14&quot; secondary; his sstc2 has a 18&quot; (albeit this one uses a full bridge instead of a half bridge). Anything about this range should work fine.
I have been trying to make an Audio Modulated SSTC for a while now, and I have found that your Ible has been the most helpful yet. So on step 11, where you say this SSTC could become audio modulated by changing the interrupter to an audio one, what exactly does that mean? Circuit diagrams are definitely not my thing, and I have not been able to find a sophomoric explanation of an Audio Interrupter or MIDI Microcontroller. I hope someone can help me!
Well, actually, this tesla coil is not audio modulated.There is nothing on the schematic that performs audio modulation. <br> <br>However, if you were to replace the smaller schematic (which is the interrupter's schematic) with one designed for audio modulation... well, you would have audio. There are several diagrams over the net. However, I would recommend you to only go for audio modulation after you get the basic setup running.
Would I be able to power this tesla coil with 240v without using a power converter or similar?
While yes (with some minor modifications), I would recommend using one f]designed for 240v.This design is made for 240v:<br><br>http://kaizerpowerelectronics.dk/tesla-coils/kaizer-sstc-i/<br><br>If you still want to use my design or Steve Wards, there are some changes that need to be done, mainly replacing the mosfets with higher voltage equivalents.
I have decided to use your design because of the lack of components (mainly the ucc chips) I will most likely use FDH44N50 mosfets. One question, on the schematic all of the capacitors are eletrolithic but on steve wards schematic they are not, the capacitor that is 470uf, is that electrolytic and what voltage rating is it? <br>Thanks.
Sure, those Mosfets are perfect. Regarding the capacitors, I kinda just used a single image for all of them, but not all of them have to be electrolytic.<br> <br> &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Usually, &gt;1uf are electrolytic; &lt;1 uF are not. The .68uF capacitors have to be non-electrolytic. Yes, the UCC chips are not that common. In fact, I made this design because I couldn't find them. However, this design does not use an isolation transformer as other designs.<br> <br> &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; The disadvantage of this is that if you make a mistake, all the chips will blow up instead of just the mosfets. I see no reason why this wouldn't work at 240v, as long as you use the Mosfets you showed me, and the capacitors you use for the bridge are rated at at least 400v (240v * sqrt(2) + clearance). C5 should also be rated 400v; and for D3 you must use a diode that can withstand that voltage; UF4004 to UF 4007 will work. Don't use UF4001-UF4003, as their reverse voltage is not enough for 240.<br> <br> I'll double check the schematic later to make sure everythin else will tolerate 240v, but so far that is all I can think of that has to be changed.<br> <br> Curious fact: my design is just steve ward's design with<a href="http://www.irf.com/product-info/datasheets/data/ir2110.pdf" rel="nofollow"> this</a> stuck in place of the UCC; if you look at the reference design you'll see my design is a virtual copy of that.
Ok, thanks for your quick reply. Another question though, the 470uf capacitor on the half bridge is that non-electrolytic, because I'm thinking it would be hard to get a capacitor that size and voltage for ac current.<br>Thanks.
It is electrolytic (I seriously doubt they make non electrolytic 470uf caps). On the halfbridge section, the ones that are not electrolytic are the two .68uF capacitors. For every other capactor, just use whatever you find, either or. Just make sure that whatever you use on the halfbridge area can take at least 400v.
Thanks you are a great help, ill get back to you soon when i start building this tesla coil. P.S im using a auido interruptor seen here: http://www.megavolts.nl/en/projecten/tesla-spoelen/153-audio-modulated-solid-state-teslacoil-v2
Hey can you provide clarification on the parts needed.As he schematic is not clearly visible. thnx <br>
This project can cost u approx 600 to 700 $(INR 33000 to 38000). I recommend u to take a look at this 'ible&nbsp;<a href="http://instructables.com/id/How-to-build-a-Tesla-Coil/" rel="nofollow">https://www.instructables.com/id/How-to-build-a-Tesla-Coil/</a>
Actually, your estimate is way off. I did mine with less than 100, although I did scrounge some pieces. <br><br>Besides, that tesla coil is a spark gap tesla coil; which uses a primary with 15 kv through bare coper wire. That type of tesla coil is potentially more dangerous than mine, as mine's primary uses 170 v in an insulated wire.<br><br>Besides, that one is potentially expensive. Right now, the one you linked uses leyden jar capacitors. Although it works, it is nowhere near its full potential. A commercial high voltage capacitor is expensive, so at the end, they end up kinda even. <br><br>The spark gap coil may be a tiny bit cheaper, but I don't consider that is worth the safety risks.

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