A solid state Tesla coil is one of the kinds of Tesla coils available. It has several advantages over the more common spark gap tesla coil. They are less louder than conventional Tesla coils, yet they can still achieve a respectable output. They can also be made to play music through its spark, which is a cool effect. Examples of this trick can be seen by searching for musical tesla coil or singing tesla coil. They are also more friendly to nearby electronic apparatus, although caution should still be applied.
In the following instructable, I will show you how to make a solid state Tesla coil, as well as several helpful tips and hints that will come handy during its construction. I take no credit for the original design, which is Steve Ward's, with some small modifications "here and there."
While fiddling with the antenna, I accidentally burnt both of the Mosfets, so bear in mind this design is far from perfect. I'm still posting the instructable, as some of the techniques I used may be interesting to some. Try at your own risks. Results may vary.
If you like this instructable, please rate it and vote my instructable for the contest.
In the following instructable, I will show you how to make a solid state Tesla coil, as well as several helpful tips and hints that will come handy during its construction. I take no credit for the original design, which is Steve Ward's, with some small modifications "here and there."
While fiddling with the antenna, I accidentally burnt both of the Mosfets, so bear in mind this design is far from perfect. I'm still posting the instructable, as some of the techniques I used may be interesting to some. Try at your own risks. Results may vary.
If you like this instructable, please rate it and vote my instructable for the contest.
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Signing UpStep 1: Tesla Coil Parts
A Solid State Tesla coil is made by four main parts: the primary coil, the secondary coil, the topload, and the control circuitry.
The Secondary : The secondary is the long, orange cylinder. It is actually a white PVC pipe covered by a lot of enameled wire. One side is connected to ground, high voltage comes through the other side.
The Primary : The primary is powered by the control circuitry and it generates the magnetic field that the secondary uses to create the high voltage. It is the few turns of thick wire at the base of the secondary coil.
The Topload : The topload is the metallic object at the top of the secondary coil. It provides a capacitance to the Tesla coil.
The Control Circuitry : The circuits that make the tesla coil work at the correct frequency and duty cycle; based on Steve Ward's design.
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Regarding the length, either one will work. In fact, steve ward's sstc 1 (which has a similar topology) has a 14" secondary; his sstc2 has a 18" (albeit this one uses a full bridge instead of a half bridge). Anything about this range should work fine.
However, if you were to replace the smaller schematic (which is the interrupter's schematic) with one designed for audio modulation... well, you would have audio. There are several diagrams over the net. However, I would recommend you to only go for audio modulation after you get the basic setup running.
http://kaizerpowerelectronics.dk/tesla-coils/kaizer-sstc-i/
If you still want to use my design or Steve Wards, there are some changes that need to be done, mainly replacing the mosfets with higher voltage equivalents.
Thanks.
Usually, >1uf are electrolytic; <1 uF are not. The .68uF capacitors have to be non-electrolytic. Yes, the UCC chips are not that common. In fact, I made this design because I couldn't find them. However, this design does not use an isolation transformer as other designs.
The disadvantage of this is that if you make a mistake, all the chips will blow up instead of just the mosfets. I see no reason why this wouldn't work at 240v, as long as you use the Mosfets you showed me, and the capacitors you use for the bridge are rated at at least 400v (240v * sqrt(2) + clearance). C5 should also be rated 400v; and for D3 you must use a diode that can withstand that voltage; UF4004 to UF 4007 will work. Don't use UF4001-UF4003, as their reverse voltage is not enough for 240.
I'll double check the schematic later to make sure everythin else will tolerate 240v, but so far that is all I can think of that has to be changed.
Curious fact: my design is just steve ward's design with this stuck in place of the UCC; if you look at the reference design you'll see my design is a virtual copy of that.
Thanks.
Besides, that tesla coil is a spark gap tesla coil; which uses a primary with 15 kv through bare coper wire. That type of tesla coil is potentially more dangerous than mine, as mine's primary uses 170 v in an insulated wire.
Besides, that one is potentially expensive. Right now, the one you linked uses leyden jar capacitors. Although it works, it is nowhere near its full potential. A commercial high voltage capacitor is expensive, so at the end, they end up kinda even.
The spark gap coil may be a tiny bit cheaper, but I don't consider that is worth the safety risks.
Second thing is that the guy prefered to have better explanation, so... i got down to search and gave a ible that appeared to me bit more explanative.
So, don't misunderstand me dude.
The first answer i gave was a rough pricing, if i consider yours as 600, its relatively simple(according to you) that the other one is about a 1000$(For guys in India).
So, mix the answer and sorry if i hurted you.
Similarly, you can surely make a sstc on India, but to make it cheaply you would have to alter the design based on what you can obtain; a non trivial process which requires electronics knowledge. The other design (spark gap tesla coil) is way easier to modify and uses parts that are easier to obtain.
If you happen to make one, just make sure to really step back when they are on. Although the the streamers from the secondary shouldn't be lethal, if a streamer touches the primary and a person simultaneously...well..don't touch it.
By the way where do you stay in USA
For convenience, here is a link: http://www.instructables.com/file/FBV4NJZGYDLQG6P/?size=ORIGINAL
However, as I point multiple times during the instructable, I recommend you to use Steve Ward's SSTC5 design if possible. I made my own because I couldn't find all the parts in Panama, and international shipping sucks. Due to his design using a gate drive transformer it is much more robust.
Here is a link to Steve Ward's schematic:
http://www.stevehv.4hv.org/SSTC5/miniSSTCfnlsch.JPG
If you have any question about whichever of the two you decide to use, feel free to ask. Just specify by which design you are going.
**note to self: send email by PM next time** :)
In addition, I recommend you to register to "www.4hv.org". There are lots of friendly people on that forum. The registration process is kinda complicated though, so read the registration form closely.
One question though...
How would you modify this to play audio? Would I just replace the antenna with a mono audio signal and connect the ground to the common negative, or would there be some additional circuitry that would be required? I don't know if I missed it, but there seemed to be some information missing.
Thanks for your help and a great instructable!
I truly recommend you to google "Steve Ward SSTC5" and read his design on tesla coils; after all, I based my design on his. He also does a better job than me explaining the electronic aspect.
Thanks again for your help!
If you use my driver, it would go to the tag that says "from interrupter"; again eliminating the 555 & associated parts from the second image.
If you are going to attempt to build it audio modulated, I'd say build it first as shown in Steve Ward´s page but with the 555 in a separate board (to test it without audio first); then change it for the modulator you posted.
By the way, have you dealt with high voltage / electronics before?
But the problem is that according to Steve, the antenna is supposed to create the frequency and drown out the signal from the 555, so wouldnt that just make the coil lock on one frequency?
The one on the bottom is the one you would replace by that audio modulator; which performs a different function. The design on the bottom of his page (the final one) only has one 555, as he managed to do without the startup 555.
My last question is, what is the diameter of the flexible duct you are using in the toroid? From the photo I would guess 3 inches, but I want to make sure before I buy it.
By the way, which design will you use, mine of Steve Ward's? It will help when troubleshooting if needed.
Out of curiosity, about how many feet of wire did you use for the secondary? A pound of wire at the place I'm getting the wire from is 3200 feet.
These people sell a pound at 20 bucks. I'm sure they sell smaller quantities too. Somewhere between half a pound and three fourths of a pound would be ideal.
The place you went to sells industrial quantites, you want a roll wayy smaller. AWG 30.
http://www.temcoindustrialpower.com/products/Magnet_Wire/MW0222.html
You said to use 5Amp fuses, but does that allow enough current to the primary? From Steve Ward's design it seems like it could handle up to 20A, but I may be missing something...