Introduction: Solvent Transfers
Every time I use this technique, people always ask how it's done, and I've always had a bit of difficulty explaining it. They say a picture's worth a thousand words. Hopefully this will help a bit.
The applications for this technique are nearly limitless. I've used and seen it used on business cards, journaling, book covers, I created an entire book "typeset" using this method (and most people thought it was actually done with letterpress). Explore.
Step 1: Materials
The list of materials:
- Paper (or other porous surface to transfer on to)
- Paper with the desired image/text to transfer
- Masking Tape
- Burnishing device
For the paper, I used Rives BFK, a neutral, smooth surfaced thick paper. Thicker, more absorbent paper will take the ink better, and the smoother the surface, the more evenly the transfer will lay down. Interesting effects can be had with different surfaces.
For tape, I usually use white "artist's tape" which is acid free and generally the least adhesive. Any masking tape will do, and it's possible to transfer without tape, but the tape makes it a ton easier.
For the solvent, the easiest and simplest way to go is with a blender pen, designed for blending when using markers. I used a Chartpak Blender (P-0 201) a link for info, but can usually be found locally at a good art supply store.. Despite the nontoxic seal on the pen, the blender pen is filled with Xylene, which means it should be used in a very well ventilated area, and with a respirator if you're sensitive. Any other solvent can be used (i've heard of good results with Citrus-solv) but Xylene seems to work better than anything. If you plan on doing an extensive amount of transfers, you can purchase a can of Xylene at the local hardware store for not much more than the price of a blender pen. Use a glass jar (Xylene can destroy plastic) and a brush to apply.
And lastly, for the burnisher, if you have a Bone folder (traditionally used for bookbinding and other book-arts) it works as the best tool as you can achieve the greatest control and precision. again, a link, but one can usually be found at a good art supply store. A spoon or other hard object will work as well.
The first photo shows all possible materials you could use, while the second photo shows the basic materials, which are more portable, cleaner, and a bit safer to use.
Step 2: Taping Down
To ensure proper registration and to make things generally easier, it helps to tape down the paper you're transferring from, face down (ink side down). In many cases, when possible, it helps to tape down the paper you're transferring to as well.
As i mentioned in materials, I usually use white "artist's tape" as it's easy to work with and safe for all papers, but just about any tape should work well.
Step 3: Apply Solvent
Carefully apply the solvent via a blender pen or brush. Several thin coats work best, but be careful not to over-saturate the paper, or the ink will bleed.
Step 4: Burnishing
Using the bone folder or spoon, rub the back of the paper after applying the solvent to transfer the ink onto the paper. Apply firm pressure in a smooth and even manner. Too fast may cause the solvent-saturated top paper to either rip or move, blurring the transfered image.
Step 5: Lift Paper and Check Progress
To check your progress ( proper amount of solvent, pressure, etc.) gently and carefully lift up the untaped corners of the paper to visually inspect the transfer. Repeat steps 3 and 4 where needed.
Step 6: Remove Paper and Let Dry
Carefully lift the paper, remove the tape, and set the transferred image aside to dry in a well-ventilated area. Note that the image pictured is not necessarily the perfect transfer - merely a test to help illustrate the possibilities.
That's all there is to this simple process, but there are nearly limitless applications of this method to create a variety of effects. Play around and see what you can come up with.
Be sure to read the final step for notes and cautions on images.
Step 7: Additional Cautions and Suggestions
With this process, ink-jet prints are almost always unsuccessful. Toner works infinitely better (copiers and laser printers), and other printed materials like magazines and newspapers will work to a varying degree.
If you make the copies / prints yourself, it's suggested to let the pages sit for at least a day or two to give the toner time to set fully into the paper. It ensures a cleaner transfer. Fresh toner (and toner oversaturated with solvent) will often dissolve and release into the air in almost feather-like fragments, which can cause streaks and lines (as seen in this image).
Oversaturation of solvent will also cause the toner to bleed, as seen in certain areas of this image. Experiment to see what works most effectively.