I bought recently curtains and corresponding curtain wiring system from a famous furniture company
you see the swedish one? OK I guess it works just fine with their danish competitors or US ones...
So they are sold with a 5 meters longs stainless steel wires. we got three of them and I needed only 5 meter plus 3 meters and 3 meters. As a matter of maths, one can say "hey what I can do with 2 meters long stainless steel curtain wires..."
Hum, actually I thought, keep those for later... And later I came back to it. This just happened!
First Hijacking: use curtain wires as a fastening system for a snap hook.
Second Hijacking: use curtain wires as a solution to a missing supporting piece of a second hand furniture.
here we were using original two snap hooks attached to our child buggy in order to carry our shopping bags and so on... It was broken and this fixture turned out to be a good replacement solution.
Both hijacking will not be possible without the aid of terminal screw blocks. The combination of both make those useful, I am sure more can be done but I will only let you know what I did.
Hope some of you will be happy to see and to do for themselves!
Just a mention on the contents of this instructable--> attribution non commercial sharealike. You can re-use my texts and my pictures, modify or whatever, if you do so please cite the author, my work or even better put a link to this instructable. I would appreciate your cooperation :) In addition if you have any comment or improvement that you would like to share with me please do it. I would like to make a gallery of some of those made by others at the end of this instructable, If you craft one, send me a picture :)
Legends or titles
safety issue or important notice
Step 1: What Do You Need?
In fact not a lot:
-a cutting clamp (to cut the stainless steel wire - without it is farging exhausting to execute-) Be careful, do not cut or squeeze a finger! It hurts... believe me!
-a scissor and a saw for metal do not cut yourself
-some terminal block strips
- a screw driver (for the strips) do not punch holes on your mother desk or wall or on yourselfor anybody
-the curtain wires do not strangle yourself or anybody, do not plug it...Do not do anything stupid...yeah I know... a bit too much?!
-and half an hour
Only for the furniture hijack:
-4 screws (for fixing on the furniture) and the appropriate screw driver
-a wood file (small and round shaped)
Step 2: DIY Wire Fastening System for a Snap Hook
More on storyline:
we bought a set of snap hook that ware placed on a child stroller to carry any shopping bags. But the big one did not last and broke. So I decided to use the curtain wire for that purpose. I am pretty sure this will last longer. Maybe not the one attached to it but at least this assembly.
Cut a 15 to 20 cm piece of curtain stainless steel wire with the pliers
Then cut a piece of terminal screw block (4 screw subsegments as shown on the picture) with the aid of the hacksaw (try to make it clean and remove sharp edges)
Step 3: Shaping the Wire
You need to bend the wire to shape a small ring at half the length.
Then twist the wire on itself along it length as shown on the picture
Then bend both ends (1 cm) at 90°
Step 4: Fastening the System on the Bar
Assemble the set up on the desired location.
Here this set up is fastened around a stable bar.
It was quite difficult to get it fixed but after several trials I got it! you will get it too.
Each wire end is firmly tighten onto the connector by applying force against the wire with the aid of the screw.
Then you can place the hook. And enjoy it!
You can add electrician tape around the wire to soften the contact between the wire and the bar.
Step 5: Second Hijack: Get a Replacement Solution for a Missing Supporting Part on a Furniture
More on storyline:
I got a small cupboard with a middle stage with a clearly missing part. This part was responsible for holding the middle plate from above.
Some big holes were also left without a clue how it was done.
So I thought why not using this curtain wire - terminal screw block combination again! This will solve my problem and I will be able to use this cupboard plate then! Let s do it!
Cut a terminal block like shown on the picture above
place the curtain wire through the piece and screw it to get it as tighten as possible (it must be really firm right!)
Bend it at 90° sidely to the screws as shown here. The position of the screws perpendicular to the plane drawn by the wire is important for the next step.
Step 6: Preparing the Block
The screws are mounted on the connectors in a tube like design. Once screwed those "tubes" part are empty.
Cut those tubes halfwise along the length as shown on the picture.
Cut away the half parts denoted with the two arrows.
finally punch holes in the two left half tubes. These parts will be screwed against the wood.
In fact you just removed the unwanted part that will face the wires. This is very logical right.
Step 7: Assemble One Side
There you need to fix the block directly above the edge of the middle place with a little shift (1cm max.) outwards.
Here I wanted to have a wire holding this plate with a little room between the frontedge and the wire. So I decided to let 2 cm from it.
To fix the block you need to screw 2 screws into the wood through the half tubes of the block.
This is done pretty quickly.
Then you need to bend the curtain wire 90° again sothat it goes below the middle plate.
Be careful and make it precisely. Be sure the middle plate is straight (use a spirit level) and horizontal. bend it a millimeter above this position.
Then sand off about 1 mm of the middle plate where the wire will be placed (on a lenght of 2 to 4 cm maybe). This channel will guide the wire and keep it in place
If you do right you must get the horizontal position. You can roll PVC tape around the wire there to improve the position afterwards.
Step 8: Assemble the Holding Wire
Now you need to bend the wire at 90° below the middle plate so that the wire goes up again.
Those steps are very similar to the previous one but on the other side.
Use the file to sand off 1 mm (2 to 4 cm) at 2 cm from the frontedge and place the wire accordingly.
Then place the middle plate straight again, check the assembly and bend the wire at 90° where the second block will be placed.
There you need to give a little more room than what you calculate, you can place the block were you want to get the right height but if you made it to short... then it will be not possible to rectify it
Fix the wire through the block, place the block against the wood and fix it at the right position with aid of screws as mentioned previously for the first block. You want it to hold the middle plate at the right height.
For that purpose, you can easily shift the block from its position to decrease the length.
That s all folks!