Soundproof Your Garage Walls (Using My Cleat Method)

Step 2 Planning Ahead

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This instructable assumes you will be soundproofing over an outside garage wall with exposed studs and insulation. Both are critical for the success of this project. If your wall is already drywalled, you'll need to remove it. If it is not insulated -- we're talking fiberglass batting or equivalent -- you will need to do that first, because it's part of the soundproofing structure.

There are 5 steps to this project:

1. Arrange to slice ("rip") the 2x4 boards longwise with a mitered cut to create a top and bottom cleat.
2. Nail the bottom cleat to the studs and staple foam across the face of the bottom cleat, then set the top cleat in the valley of the bottom cleat with foam sandwiched in between.
3. Cut the pipe insulation to set up a squishy track for the drywall to sit in.
4. Set the drywall panel in the track and screw it into the top cleats.
5. Assuming it's how you'd like it, caulk the seams.

And here are the essential parts, listed in order of use.

2x4 lumber - You will need one 8 ft length of 2x4 for every 8x4 ft panel of drywall. If you choose to use more than one cleat at the top and one cleat in the middle, plan accordingly after reading all the instructions.

Helpful Hint: If you buy the wood from a lumberyard rather than a home improvement store, you can ask them to rip the wood for you. Lowe's and Home Depot cannot do the cut required for this project.

Step 1:

(Optional for the DIYer)

-- Table saw or Band saw (must have miter capability.)

--Measuring tape and pencil to mark the cut line.

(Recommended "No-Power-Saw" Alternative)

-- Ask the lumberyard (not Lowe's or Home Depot) to cut it for you for a small fee. See the section on "ripping the boards", where I tell you what to say to them to get the cut we want.

Step 2:

Hammer and 2-1/2" Nails. You'll be nailing cleats into the studs.

Closed-cell foam tape. Does not need to be sticky. This blue roll is from Lowe's in the insulation section and was very cheap. In general closed-cell foam is identified by little closed bubbles. It does not look like a sponge. It should be about 1/4" thick. The foam tape will be cut and attached between the two cleats and along the front face of the bottom cleat.

Staple Gun. (Needed if your tape is not sticky. If your roll of foam is sticky, you won't need the staple gun.)

Scissors for cutting foam tape. If it works, use it.

Step 3:

Pipe insulation tube for 1/2" pipes. Your drywall panels will sit in these to isolate them from the floor. You should get the "polyethylene" tubes rather than the really squishy black ones. They need to be very resilient.

Utility Knife to slice the pipe insulation in half longways.

Step 4:

Drywall - thicker is better, but you can always increase the thickness later if you desire, by gluing more sheets on the face. There are many advantages to doing it this way, including being able to seal the seams very easily by overlapping them with the new sheet. I used 1/2" thick drywall.

C-Clamp (not shown) - at least 6"

Screw gun for attaching drywall to the top cleat.

Drywall screws. Pick your favorite. I ultimately used self-drilling screws.

Optional (Very helpful): A drywall prybar that helps to lift drywall at the foot.

Acoustical Caulk and Caulking Gun - Acoustical caulk is "Non-Hardening" or "50 year" caulk. An important principle in acoustical isolation is flexibility. Rigidity is an enemy.