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Step 5Step 2: Prepare the bottom cleat
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Once the cleats are cut from the 2x4s, we need to nail the bottom cleat to the wall and place foam tape across the front and on the top where it meets the studs. Once prepared, we simply lay the top cleat across the foam and move to securing the drywall.
1. Nail the bottom cleats to the wall horizontally. Starting with one 8 foot 2x4 pair, choose one of the halves to be the bottom cleat. Orient it on the wall according to the pictures. (The top surface should slant upwards towards you.) If you've cut them unevenly, I suggest saving whichever one of the pair has the larger small-side to be the top cleat. (The reason is that you will be screwing the drywall to the top cleat's small-side blindly, so you may as well use the one with the larger surface.)
The only real variable here is location. The drywall will be supported against the wall at three locations: the floor, at the middle, and near the top. You interpret where that means for your garage. I chose the middle to be well above the cross members of the framing system, in order to reduce the risk of accidentally shorting out the soundproofing. I chose the top to be about 2 inches below the ceiling, since that would assure that I have room to raise and detach the drywall if I need to adjust something.
Nail the cleat to the studs. I don't believe it's necessary to nail it in more than about 3 times - at the middle and both ends. I recommend using a level, but it's not a big deal if you don't. In any case be sure to line up the next 8-footer with the first.
2. Add foam across the front face. I cut my foam (with scissors) longwise down the middle to make it an appropriate width, and then cut it into 8" or so lengths and stapled them across the face. You don't need to attach them contiguously -- it's better to leave space between them so that the foam can expand sideways. After stapling with as few staples as possible (just one in the middle works fine) hammer each staple all the way in with one blow to make sure it is well below the surface of the foam. Avoid hammering away the bubbles as much as you can.
Upgrade Hint: If you have the patience to use glue for the foam, then you eliminate all stapling issues. I found gluing to be frustrating, but maybe you can find a good way to do it.
3. Apply foam to prevent the top cleat from contacting either the studs or the bottom cleat. Next cut some smaller strips, about 4 inches, and staple the strips vertically to the studs about 2 inches above the cleat. See the photo. Again, hammer the staples all the way in so that they don't short out the whole thing. You can avoid this issue by stapling well above the height of the top cleat.
4. Once you've got everything padded like the photo, simply lay the top cleat in there snugly and move the next step.
Once the cleats are cut from the 2x4s, we need to nail the bottom cleat to the wall and place foam tape across the front and on the top where it meets the studs. Once prepared, we simply lay the top cleat across the foam and move to securing the drywall.
1. Nail the bottom cleats to the wall horizontally. Starting with one 8 foot 2x4 pair, choose one of the halves to be the bottom cleat. Orient it on the wall according to the pictures. (The top surface should slant upwards towards you.) If you've cut them unevenly, I suggest saving whichever one of the pair has the larger small-side to be the top cleat. (The reason is that you will be screwing the drywall to the top cleat's small-side blindly, so you may as well use the one with the larger surface.)
The only real variable here is location. The drywall will be supported against the wall at three locations: the floor, at the middle, and near the top. You interpret where that means for your garage. I chose the middle to be well above the cross members of the framing system, in order to reduce the risk of accidentally shorting out the soundproofing. I chose the top to be about 2 inches below the ceiling, since that would assure that I have room to raise and detach the drywall if I need to adjust something.
Nail the cleat to the studs. I don't believe it's necessary to nail it in more than about 3 times - at the middle and both ends. I recommend using a level, but it's not a big deal if you don't. In any case be sure to line up the next 8-footer with the first.
2. Add foam across the front face. I cut my foam (with scissors) longwise down the middle to make it an appropriate width, and then cut it into 8" or so lengths and stapled them across the face. You don't need to attach them contiguously -- it's better to leave space between them so that the foam can expand sideways. After stapling with as few staples as possible (just one in the middle works fine) hammer each staple all the way in with one blow to make sure it is well below the surface of the foam. Avoid hammering away the bubbles as much as you can.
Upgrade Hint: If you have the patience to use glue for the foam, then you eliminate all stapling issues. I found gluing to be frustrating, but maybe you can find a good way to do it.
3. Apply foam to prevent the top cleat from contacting either the studs or the bottom cleat. Next cut some smaller strips, about 4 inches, and staple the strips vertically to the studs about 2 inches above the cleat. See the photo. Again, hammer the staples all the way in so that they don't short out the whole thing. You can avoid this issue by stapling well above the height of the top cleat.
4. Once you've got everything padded like the photo, simply lay the top cleat in there snugly and move the next step.
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