Soundproof Your Garage Walls (Using My Cleat Method)

Step 9 What now?

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Are we done?

We'll we're done with one step of a long project. You should now have a pretty solid acoustical wall that both soundproofs very well and absorbs deep bass from within the room. Unlike a resilient-channel wall, which you should NOT screw into since there's nothing solid behind it to block the sound that will come through the screw hole, with my wall, you could even use the top cleats as a way to secure supports for shelving, tools, or acoustical devices. If you try this, I would advise drilling the hole, then filling it with caulk before adding the screw.

But are we really done?

Chances are, like me, you need to soundproof your ceiling, doors, and even floor also to really notice the full difference. It's amazing how much sound will leak through small cracks and seams -- those small cracks can make the whole project seem pointless until you deal with them. I will cover ceiling and doors and floors in future Instructables when I actually get to those projects. I have more nifty ideas for saving money on all of these.

For me, the most pressing problem is the garage door ("solid" plywood-over-frame), which I wish to remain openable, yet completely sealable. The edges around the lever mechanism are a profound soundproofing issue, because the pseudo-scissors-action of the door relative to the wall make it impossible to seal it ilke a normal door, and the lever-mechanism is totally in the way of any plan I might have. I also don't know how to create anything resembling a resilient channel or double-wall construction on a moving door without making it impossibly heavy to lift. Not to mention all the bolts and truss rods and bracing that are in the way. Any ideas?

Comments

[civicbynature]

great idea man. I'm Build a music studio like your self currently. I thinking seriously about using your method. But i did have one question. Doing all you walls this way what are you doing about pluging unless your using non. Can plugs and light switches be used in these walls. If so or any idea how to do so please hit me up or leave me a message. Would help me out alot....

[HTJames]

I really applaud the ingenuity, but there are issues here. This is a bit of a collection of common internet urban myths. "I did it and it worked really great" doesn't substitute for bonafide lab results. People install egg crates on walls and are thrilled... doesn't mean it did anything. Not having the drywall attached will not pass code, but you want them removeable. The foam on the cleats will pass vibration readily, since it's compressed. There's no need for a foam, etc under the drywall. Classic myth. It gives me the creeps to have this wall unattached. But maybe I'm the only one. What would I recommend? Since the studs are exposed, I'd take a small number of 2x4s and modify the existing single stud wall to a double stud. More sturdy, more decoupled. Then I would add something like Green Glue or Quiet Glue between double 5/8" drywall. You get the great mass and you get damped mass. Seal around with caulk, and forget the foams.

[sonicdemonic]

Hi I actually signed up here right after going through this whole instructable, very nice work. I do maintenance at an undiscloded location, and we have these things called "door sweeps" some are rubber and some are kinda like the bristles of a broom, anyway when we have a gap like that on a door, we install these sweeps, and some are nearly water proof depending on how much you let them drag on the door jamb. If this was a problem for me I'd get the rubber ones, and possibly mount one on the front and the back of the door. They're @ home depot, and its just a thought, they're kinda pricey though like $20-$30.

[aparition42]

For the garage door layered heavy wool blankets could be arranged to drape over the door while closed and pulled aside when opening. I know they're absorbant rather than blocking, but considering the level of complexity you're up against it could be the fastest, cheapest solution. If you're really into the problem solving side, how about an accordian folded false wall to be pulled out? foam strips (the kind used to prevent drafts around doors) could be used to seal the points where the accordian panels meet.

[rik_akashian]

Airtight soundproofing (as opposed to absorbing) is definitely possible. I haven't gotten around to it yet, but I'll likely set up a removable way to "board up" the sides from the outside. For a second seal within the side cracks, I have some ideas that aren't too complicated.

I've considered a folding wall for a second wall. A difficulty is "where to put it" when the door is open. Since it would want to be taller than the garage door, the only way to move it out of the way would be to push it halfway into the room, right? It MAY be possible to push the accordion off to the side, like they do for conference rooms, if I have space over there. A weirder solution would be to make panels that fold down, so that the garage door could open over it. That's kind of funny to think about. Imagine having a wall inside the garage door with a wide door in it: You roll up the garage door and go in the smaller door. The only reason to open the garage door anyway is to move furniture in and out, and to refresh the air. Otherwise I go in the side door. Hmm.... stuff to think about, measurements to be made.

[aparition42]

My thought was more like the conference room you mentioned. Not just the width of the door but the entirety of the room, unless of course your garage door is the width of your room. Perhaps two accordions that meet in the middle? I'm looking forward to reading your solution.

[BigEdJr]

That looks pretty cool. As far as the sound proofing of the door goes: There is a material that I have seen used to insulate/isolate AC units and even garage door openers from the structure. It is a rubber like stuff, possibly a neoprene. That stuff could go between the garage door hinge and the structure...I'm just throwing this out there by the way. And you can add springs to the door hinges to help open the door so you could potentially add a second layer to it too. Again I'm no expert, but you could at least look into it. Good luck! Ed

[soulsust]

this is a great idea, do you think putting one layer of soundboard then a layer of rock then your wall is over kill?

[rik_akashian]

Depending on your application, it's not overkill -- it's very common to add layers. Keep in mind that once you've already made a heavy wall, adding layers only adds a few STC points at a time. To squeeze the most value out of this construction, it's recommended to screw in the first layer, then glue the top layer. In your case this would mean screwing the cleats to the soundboard, but gluing the drywall to the soundboard. The construction will be a little weaker, but you'll gain a teeny bit in resiliency, which will help it out overall. Again, we're talking only a few dB of difference.