In this Instructable, I will show you how to etch a circuit board with about a tablespoon of ferric chloride etching solution and a 2 inch square sponge. You will be amazed as the exposed copper on the PCB disappears before your eyes, and your board is completely etched in a minute or less!
I found a passing mention of this technique of using a sponge with a small amount of ferric chloride on the Pulsar web site, and I was very skeptical that it could possibly work. So naturally, I tried it.
Whenever I have made circuit boards in the past, I did it just like most of us do. I put the ferric chloride into a small tub, dropped the masked circuit board into the solution, and rocked it back and forth for a long time. Even with fresh, strong ferric chloride solution, it would usually take at least 10 minutes for the copper to be removed. As the solution grew weaker, the etch would take longer and longer.
A few months ago, I discovered the 1-part pool acid (muriatic acid) to 2 parts hydrogen peroxide method of etching a circuit board. You will find lots of wonderful Instructables on this method. That method works great, and it made me mad that I spent so much money and effort with ferric chloride over the years when I already had all the chemicals I needed right at home to use this method. The down sides of the acid and hydrogen peroxide solution are that the muriatic acid can cause skin burns and is a little dangerous and damages things that it contacts. Also, I found the etching solution to be quite aggressive which was great for fast etching, but I ended up with severe undercutting and partial obliteration of the traces, and the solution tended to be more corrosive to the resist materials I used, and partially dissolved the mask away during the etch.
This weekend I tried this sponge and ferric chloride method to etch 3 Arduino shield boards I am prototyping for our RFID-enabled member access system at TechShop (TechShop is the 15,000 square foot membership-based DIY workshop with locations in Menlo Park CA, Portland OR and Durham NC). I was so impressed with the success of this technique that I decided to write it up as an Instructable.
The method I will now show you gives you the advantages of all the other methods, and none of the downsides. Specifically:
o You get a fast etch (much faster than either method I know of),
o You use a tablespoon of solution, so disposal problems are eliminated
o A small bottle of ferric chloride will last for hundreds of boards
o No tank or tub is needed, no heating or agitation
o Undercutting is practically non-existent, and the resist stays in place
o There is no need to try to reduce the amount of copper being etched
o The etch is so fast that it is actually exciting to watch and show your friends!
Let's get to it, shall we?
I found a passing mention of this technique of using a sponge with a small amount of ferric chloride on the Pulsar web site, and I was very skeptical that it could possibly work. So naturally, I tried it.
Whenever I have made circuit boards in the past, I did it just like most of us do. I put the ferric chloride into a small tub, dropped the masked circuit board into the solution, and rocked it back and forth for a long time. Even with fresh, strong ferric chloride solution, it would usually take at least 10 minutes for the copper to be removed. As the solution grew weaker, the etch would take longer and longer.
A few months ago, I discovered the 1-part pool acid (muriatic acid) to 2 parts hydrogen peroxide method of etching a circuit board. You will find lots of wonderful Instructables on this method. That method works great, and it made me mad that I spent so much money and effort with ferric chloride over the years when I already had all the chemicals I needed right at home to use this method. The down sides of the acid and hydrogen peroxide solution are that the muriatic acid can cause skin burns and is a little dangerous and damages things that it contacts. Also, I found the etching solution to be quite aggressive which was great for fast etching, but I ended up with severe undercutting and partial obliteration of the traces, and the solution tended to be more corrosive to the resist materials I used, and partially dissolved the mask away during the etch.
This weekend I tried this sponge and ferric chloride method to etch 3 Arduino shield boards I am prototyping for our RFID-enabled member access system at TechShop (TechShop is the 15,000 square foot membership-based DIY workshop with locations in Menlo Park CA, Portland OR and Durham NC). I was so impressed with the success of this technique that I decided to write it up as an Instructable.
The method I will now show you gives you the advantages of all the other methods, and none of the downsides. Specifically:
o You get a fast etch (much faster than either method I know of),
o You use a tablespoon of solution, so disposal problems are eliminated
o A small bottle of ferric chloride will last for hundreds of boards
o No tank or tub is needed, no heating or agitation
o Undercutting is practically non-existent, and the resist stays in place
o There is no need to try to reduce the amount of copper being etched
o The etch is so fast that it is actually exciting to watch and show your friends!
Let's get to it, shall we?
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Signing UpStep 1: What You Will Need
You don't need a lot of supplies for this Instructable, just the following:
o Ferric chloride (available at Radio Shack, 16 oz bottle for $10, part number 276-1535)
o Sponge (2" x 2" square, cut from any sponge, or paper towel will work too)
o Rubber Gloves (you don't want to stain your hands)
o Copper Circuit Board (one or two sided)
o Cup of water (to drop the etched board into to stop the etching)
o Ferric chloride (available at Radio Shack, 16 oz bottle for $10, part number 276-1535)
o Sponge (2" x 2" square, cut from any sponge, or paper towel will work too)
o Rubber Gloves (you don't want to stain your hands)
o Copper Circuit Board (one or two sided)
o Cup of water (to drop the etched board into to stop the etching)
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How can I print on copper board? I can not print on copper board. I am stuck on it. Can anyone help me please?
Thanks in advance.
A 1/2 oz, .032" thick board, 2"x3" took about 2 minutes to etch.
Thanks for the guide!
Those of you having trouble, I can explain. Jim is using 1/2 oz copper laminate. If you're using 1 oz, it takes considerably longer. I like using the 1/2 oz copper boards just for this reason - it goes so much quicker. (I've done it with both types of board.)
Well, you live and learn. At least I did it! :) I used wax paper and laser printer. Just FYI, that method fattens up your traces. So next time I'm using one of the other proven methods.
Fun stuff though!
Hi Asteidl...
That's great! I'm going to need to look for a new printer as I have switched to using Macintosh computers about 2 years ago, but the HP 1100 laser printer I have is parallel port, and although I have a wifi print server for it, there aren;t any drivers for the Mac for that printer that I can get to work.
I went to Staples and used the HP multi-purpose printers to make copies of a circuit board image, and I will try to put these samples through the laminator heat roller press to see how well the toner transfers to a PCB board.
I like this printer because it lays down a very thick coat of toner.
Bad thing about this printer is it is parallel port only, and not many computers have those anymore. So you'll need a wifi or Ethernet print server or a USB adapter of some sort. At home, we use a wifi parallel print server I bought on eBay so we can all print to it and it works perfectly. I'm not sure what the modern version of an HP 1100 is that has a USB port.
There is also a program called "LJConfig" that lets you set the toner density and a bunch of other stuff on most HP laser printers. You can even use it to change the idle display message to something more interesting like "KILL THEM ALL" and then change it back after your coworker sees it and reports it to the boss. Check out this page on PulsarFX's web site for more laser printer information and a link to the "LJConfig" program: http://bit.ly/aQQ8t6
That was board I purchased from PulsarFX:
http://www.pcbfx.com/main_site/pages/products/rigid_pc_boards.html
They also make a killer dextrin-coated toner transfer paper.
The color might just be the lighting.
Thanks!
I'll check it out. Are you sure its the light though? Its looking quite nice.
Hi Pranavsharma2504...
Yes, I'm sure it is either the light or the board is wet, making it appear dark. The board is quite light in color.
Thanks!
Regardless, it was my first ever PCB and it's not too bad, I think!
I use mine for touching up toner transfer on the occasion there is a hole or some other problem.
Regards,
Nicolae
Good point! Yes, Sharpie pen will often rub off, even during traditional tank etching.
I've never tried this, but I wonder if a paint pen would work? It might be a little bit too coarse, though.
There is a so a type of pen called a Rapidograph made by Koh-I-Noor (intro video on YouTube at http://youtu.be/xHSIk4Y79BY) that are really amazing and cool pens for drawing VERY detailed drawings. You fill them yourself with any india ink, so if you used a waterproof india ink, I wonder if that would work for resist for PCBs?
The rapidograph looks interesting — I may have to get hold of one of those.
P.S. My PCB soldered very well — on to testing now :|
Disposing the etchant in small amounts over a long time is no different than disposing the whole lot at once, it would all still end up down the drain.
Better to collect it all up (whatever way you etch) and take it to a proper disposal place in the end.
Where I live the local firehall will take whatever chemicals. You just drive them over in an onimous container and they'll add it to a big pile of mysterious things.
good lord :-)
all mine's pvc