Everyone can, and should carve a wooden spoon.  This Instructable will show you how to get started carving your very own spoon and hopefully answer some of the basic questions regarding wood carving, whittling, and how to create your own wooden spoons that you can cook and eat with.  

I've been collecting spoons of the world for a while (see second photo) and have always had an interest in odd spoons.  Big ones, tiny ones, it doesn't mater really, there's just something about the spoon that from a design and function standpoint catches my interest.  At some point I eventually started making my own spoons, and carving them with other people as well as a social event - it's a great thing to share in as a group activity.

Carving a wooden spoon is a great activity because the process is directed, but still has a place for creativity.  It's easy enough for anyone to learn and delivers success at virtually any level of completion because there's always a use for an odd spoon and even when they don't go exactly to plan, they still come out as a beautiful handmade work of functional art.

Step 1: Tools and Materials

I'm going to share my process for spoon carving in this Instructable.  It's by no means the official way to do it, or even, a carving purists way to do it since it involves the use of several power tools that all remove wood more quickly than hand carving.  Please just use this Instructable as an inspirational guide to start carving wooden spoons and utensils, and not as the end all word on the very complex and highly skilled process of wood carving, of which, I am by no means an expert or qualified teacher.

Tools and Materials:
  • sharp carving knives including at least a medium straight knife and a rounded or sweep gouge. (I bought my knives from Flexcut)
  • chunk of soft wood a little larger than the size of spoon you'd like to carve (more on wood choices in the following step)
  • 80, 120, 220 & 400 grit sandpaper
  • small diameter (1"-2") sanding drum or flap wheel
  • pen or marker
  • food safe wood finish (like a butcher block oil or beeswax finish) or mineral oil
Optional Power Tools:
  • belt sander
  • dremmel tool
  • scroll saw
  • table saw
(The entire process can be completed by hand, I simply used power tools to create the blank in order to speed up the process and get to the most fun part of carving - the detail shipping faster.)

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No power tools.
<p>Very nice. I have an appreciation for complete hand tool workmanship.</p>
<p>I have been carving spoons and bowls and cutting boards for 30 years. Any vegetable oil will work for a wooden spoon. Whatever you have on hand. Some people heat the oil up to dip the spoons. I prefer walnut oil or hazelnut oil. Olive oil is my second choice. Wooden cutting boards are safer than plastic cutting boards. The wood will wick away the water left in the cells of the uncooked meat left on the boards (after cleaning). Plastic boards will not do anything. I always carve green wood. Carve it down quickly (couple hours) and have never had one split. Carving a bowl takes longer and I wrap it in plastic bags with wood chips to slow the drying process down. Takes months to dry.</p>
<p>Do you know of a good alternative that would achieve a similar finish to the Gel that he originally used?</p>
<p>.The oil you use for your wooden cutting boards and utensils should be <strong>food grade</strong> and not prone to rancidity. Mineral oil is an inexpensive and popular choice, and you can easily find bottles in most kitchen supply stores. Personally, I like to use a homemade mixture of <strong>beeswax </strong>and mineral oil.</p><p><a href="http://www.thekitchn.com/how-to-oil-and-maintain-a-wooden-cutting-board-lessons-from-the-kitchn-195642" rel="nofollow">http://www.thekitchn.com/how-to-oil-and-maintain-a...</a></p>
<p>I use mineral oil, because vegetable oil can go rancid. How do you overcome rancid oils? I also make wooden food prep items and love to share tips.</p>
<p>If you have a band sander, mot of the &quot;carving&quot; can be achieved using that tool, including the back and the handle. All but the bowl of the spoon. Not for the purist perhaps, but very efficient. A dust mask and vacuum is important, though. This will create a TON of wood dust.</p>
<p>This is a good ible. I like the way in which the timber changes species during the making ;)</p><p>Not sure this is the 'pure' way to hand carve a spoon but so what you end up with a good product.</p>
<p>Hi!! Have you thought about using Walnut Oil for the finish??? You put 1 or 2 walnuts inside some clean cloth, then smash them with a hammer, and apply the resulting oil... I used it for my converted fretless bass' fretboard and it gives quite a good result :)</p>
<p>That's a great idea, I love the finish walnut oil gives, but might it make the spoon unsuitable for people with nut allergies?</p>
<p>Tung oil also makes a nice hard finish if you want something natural with gloss.</p><p><a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tung_oil" rel="nofollow">https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tung_oil</a></p>
No power tools!
<p>Thank you! I've often thought of trying to carve a spoon. Now I have a place to start!</p>
<p>spoons for everyone!</p>
Would walnut oil finish come of a spoon if it was used as a tea spoon e.g. Lifting out a tea bag?
Personally I like seeing the very small toolmarks in hand made woden items, spoons, Kuksas, etc. It's an aesthetic choice but I also think it's nice to see how things were made well before the advent of sandpaper. My Dad taught me how the Japanese master craftsman would use wood planes to get a mirror finish. <br><br>Very nice work.
<p>I have yet to begin carving wood, but this morning(15/MARCH/2014)</p><p>I found a part of a tree branch that is long enough(about 30&quot;) and has a diameter big enough(about 2&quot;), that I can try &amp; carve SOMETHING half way decent....small but decent. I have always been told that with anything new, start small &amp; work your way up to bigger &amp; more challenging things. so that's what I intend to do...</p><p>I figure that there's enough wood in this 1 piece, that I can afford a few mistakes...and I know I'll make at least a few....hundred. LOL</p><p>TY for sharing this project with all of us, it gives me inspiration to bigger &amp; better things. 8)</p>
Can you boil a spoon in salt water to food safe it?
I'm a school trained cook and I've cooked in and managed kitchens for over 20 years. So I thought I'd just add my 2-bits on the wood finish. <br> <br>You can't bring new wooden surfaced tables or cutting boards into a commercial kitchen any more (due to idiots who didn't care for the wood so it developed cracks and/or wasn't sanitized correctly). However I still delt with many butcher block tables that were grandfathered in and was trained in their care at school. <br> <br>In a commercial kitchen you clean the wooden surface by wiping it down with a light bleach/water mix (occasionally, if needed, it gets scrubbed down, but this is seldom if ever needed as long as it's wiped down regularly) and then once a week it gets oiled with vegetable oil (I've heard that you should only use linseed oil as vegetable oil will go rancid and smell. However I've been using vegetable oil at work and home for many years and have never experienced the oil going 'rancid'). <br> <br>I basically do the same thing with my wooden cooking implements at home (though I don't bleach or oil as often). <br> <br>So to sum my recommendation up, I'd just use oil for a finish and occasionally renew it. I would never use varnish on an item that was going to be in direct contact with my food. <br> <br>P.S. The oil reapplied over the years will make the wood harder and more durable also.
The oil will make it more beautiful too, BUT linseed, however, has chemicals added to it to &quot;boil&quot; it without using heat--since it's extremely flammable--and that makes it dangerous to use around food. But citrus does an amazing job at disinfecting and is good for wood and harmless, as opposed to bleach. Not to mention it's environmentally friendly. I've cleaned a ton of wooden items as a maid who made her own cleaners and also never had a problem with veggie oil, even on floors. Vinegar works amazing at sterilizing too! But extended use will pull up varnishes, including any oiled seasoning. So it might be a good option or not, and it can be watered down as well.
I would recommend to use a dremel tool such as the Dremel 4000-6/50. This tool helps you complete a range of crafting, hobby, and artisan projects. For more info check out: http://ibookmarkedit.com/dremel-4000-650-120-volt-variable-speed-rotary-kit-2/
Nice! have found some extra pictures to follow the process of spoon making at http://pictures.mjvanderwielen.com/ <br> <br>Thanks for the info!
Excellent looking stuff! <br> <br>I normally carve the &quot;cup&quot; part at this stage, so if I accidentally jumble with the carving I can easily change the design to fit my mistake :D
Nice instructable! <br> <br>On her workshop page, Spoonlady.com points to a link listing wood toxicities: http://www.cs.rochester.edu/u/roche/rec.wood.misc/wood.toxic <br> <br>It's important to protect yourself, esp from inhaling sawdust, if using toxic woods.
@kewpiedoll99 <br>I can't find where she gets her info. She lists beech as toxic and carcinogenic, but I can't anything that corroborates that. <br> <br>Side note: <br> <br>@noahw <br>Good Stuff not so nice. Maybe use something less potentially carcinogenic. <br>http://www.mapleblock.com/uploads/Good_Stuff_MSDS_2005.pdf <br> <br>However, the spoons look really cool! Nice work!
That's a savage MSDS! &nbsp;I was completely misinformed on that stuff - thanks so much for letting me know. &nbsp;I certainly won't use it anymore on anything that could come into contact with food.<br /> <br /> Here's the copy from their website - I guess a food safe gel varnish is really too good to be true.<br /> <br /> <strong>Good Stuff - 1 Quart<br /> <br /> When your butcher block island or counter top starts to show wear or needs refinishing, give it a little Good Stuff. This easy-to-use gel urethane gives unfinished wood surfaces a protective moisture resistant finish. Perfect for butcher block islands, counter tops &mdash; even wood utensils and salad bowls. See Emmet&rsquo;s Elixir for cutting boards and chopping blocks.<br /> <br /> &bull; Urethane Wood Finish<br /> &bull; 1 Quart<br /> &bull; Non-toxic, food-safe, urethane-based.<br /> &bull; For finishing or refinishing tops with Durakryl 102 finish<br /> &bull; Easy cloth application<br /> &bull; Clear satin finish</strong><br /> <br /> <strong>http://www.buybutcherblock.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&amp;Product_Code=goodstuff-finish4&amp;Category_Code=maintenanceProd</strong>
urethane is non toxic ????&acirc;€&brvbar; <br>I would never bet on that. <br> <br>To me a butcher's block should be left bare : if you use it every day or so it will wear but that's how things must be. That's the authentic touch that could be ruined by varnishing it with urethane. <br>If you really care to see the wood grain oil it with a cloth and any dressing oil (olive, peanut, whatever &acirc;€&brvbar;) result will be as good &acirc;€&brvbar; <br>My feeling (but that is purely personal) is that we shouldn't overdo things.
It may be totally safe after it cures. I dunno. Silicone gel is (evidently) inert after cure, but is best cured in well-ventilated areas, so it could be like that. But yes, that MSDS gave me pause. That's a whole lot of volatile. <br> <br>Thank you for the great instructable, though. I'm just getting back into carving, and I am definitely going to try this one!
I asked this question of a gentleman giving a talk about wood finishes. He informed me that pretty much all clear wood finishes are &quot;food safe&quot; after curing. Yes, you don't want to consume the liquid or paste finish, but nearly all the toxicity comes from the solvents which evaporate as the finish cures. The finishes that advertise themselves as &quot;food-safe&quot; are really just using a buzzword for marketing purposes. <br> <br>That said, I usually use walnut oil and beeswax on the items that I make that may be in contact with food. They are natural and effective. Shellac is also a good choice for things that don't see too much water or wear. Shellac is so safe that it's actually used in food--it provides the shine to some candies like M&amp;Ms and jelly beans. <br> <br>Nice instructible, by the way! I have made a few spoons and stock-pot stirrers for my wife. Hard to find a 16&quot; spoon to stir a deep pot of strawberries cooking into jam.
Great instructable! I have been wanting to make a spoon for a while, and this may inspire me to finally do it.. <br> <br>Are there woods that are generally not food safe that you can comment on? I had an allergic reaction when working with pau ferro. The interwebs say walnut is toxic to horses, but no sign it is bad for humans.
On just about every food related woodworking project I have done I've gotten a bunch of comments about "toxic woods". <br /> <br />Rather than try to preach about the relative safety of wood compared to virtually everything else in our environments, I will simply say that working with walnut, cherry and maple is completely safe, and those are great places to start without any fear of a possible reaction.
No one is asking for a sermon the relative safety of wood versus other toxic substances. Why is that even mentioned? My question was not about &quot;relative safety&quot;, but rather an issue of WOOD and allergies. <br> <br>A simple statement in your instructable for first time wood workers could be useful.
Hi gare8421, <br /> <br />Please accept my apologies - my comment was intended to be directed towards pjotrkuh (see their comment below) and I must have accidentally hit the incorrect reply button. pjotrkuh's comment has a tone of alarm about "toxic wood" to it that I just wanted to turn down a bit since wood is generally a very safe and stable material to work with. <br /> <br />Regarding your comment - I have also heard that walnut is bad for horses, but I do know that it is fine for humans. I have also read that people who suffer nut allergies should be fine working with wood from nut bearing trees - the proteins concentrate in the nuts, not the rest of the plant structure. <br /> <br />It's a good idea to say a word about wood allergies for the beginning wood worker and I thank you for the suggestion. Quite frankly I though wouldn't know what to say as we all mitigate risks in our lives differently and react in our own way to allergens. For example, many woodworkers get itchy skin when working with certain types of wood like cedar and cocobolo. This is a widely known occurrence, and woodworkers suggest wearing long sleeves, or, quite simply, to not let the itch bother them. That being said, the dust from these woods could certainly be described as an allergy. Should cedar and cocobolo be labeled as allergens? Does it merit a warning? I'm not looking for an answer, simply trying to explain why I think these are tricky questions. <br /> <br /> <br />If you'd like to point me towards a good reference on wood allergies I'd be happy to read it, and include it in the Instructable. I'm really not trying to deliver a sermon, just simply wanted to answer your question with the thought and explanation that I think it deserved. Thanks again for your suggestion and support.
Scratch that last part - I did some additional reading just now and have updated "The Wood" step of the Instructable with a note about allergies and a reference that could help the beginning woodworker out a bit.
Yes some woods are veery, very toxic : <br>on your list I would definitely scrap down all the &quot;pine&quot; category such as pine, cedar, fir and redwood : after all you wouldn't mind to use turpentine as a salad dressing ! <br>Same for teak : who would care for a taste of teak oil ??? <br> <br> <br>PS. : Turpentine (at least the traditional stuff that has been manufactured for centuries before synthetic chemistry took over) is made from pine resin : great smell when you enter Picasso's studio, &Acirc;&nbsp;but it's compatibility with human health stops here !!!!&acirc;€&brvbar;
just a heads-up : walnut can be dangerous for people with nut allergies. <br> <br>(I'm pretty sure that's what I read on another forum, which has lots of woodworkers) <br>there are almost certainly online resources which will tell you what woods are dangerous/easy to work/nice finish/etc. <br> <br>if in doubt about some wood, Google it
Thats what I wanted to comment... there are certain types of wood that can be toxic ..... so KNOW what type of wood your work with ppl!!!
Niiiice !... <br>I'll have to try it. <br> <br>I did not read all the comments before the one I'm posting, so please forgive me if mine is redundant. It's about the finish : instead of mineral oil, wouldn't olive oil (or any other salad oil for that matter) be an acceptable substitute ?... After all olive oil is edible ! <br> <br>However there is an alternative, although I'm not sure it will be accepted by other members : no finishing at all ! <br>Keep the wood bare and the spoon will slowly oil and &quot;finish&quot; itself over time. <br>Most of the wooden &quot;cutlery&quot; (spoon and forks) sold in local markets here (France) are free of any finish. They keep very well overtime : I spoil mine when I happen to leave them near a flame /) !... Otherwise I wouldn't have to get new ones. En they get a very nice tanned color overtime ... <br>I'm 60 + and I still see in my mother's kitchen spoons she used when I was a child.
I suggest that using mineral oil on woodware that is in contact with food is not a good practice. Personally I would stay with vegetable oils.
What is your concern with mineral oil? I've had reservations about vegetable oil on wood that comes into contact with food because of the flavor as well as a risk of it becoming rancid over time.
I'm an avid woodcarver and use mineral oil extensively. <br> <br>I do ensure that I get a &quot;safe&quot; formulation of mineral oil by purchasing it at the drugstore, where it is sold as a laxative. I've received several odd looks from cashiers when I purchase 2-3 large bottles at the same time, and the occasional warning that &quot;you do know you are supposed to only use a couple tablespoons of that a day, right?&quot;
I know It works for general wood carvings but mineral oil doesen't make any kind af tipical paint polimerization, in other word it remains liquid as you bought and when you use your spoon in hot water you'll see vaseline oil floating on sorface of your soup. That's not so nice if you are asked about.
it depends on which oil , I advice against soy oil , really unpleasent flavor when rancid. I use that for outdoor light duty wood protection as flax oil more or less. Actually I use any kind of unpleasent food grade residual vegetal oil for wood protection .
I was thinking of motoroil as mineral oil. I was unaware of mineral oil that was safe for human consumption. Like the indestructible anyway!
I've rubbed olive oil into wood and never had a problem with it going rancid, probably because I use the chopping board most days. The oil is not strong enough to flavour the food. Great instructable!
Sure is, olive oil may be the best choice to me because it does not get an unpleasent fishy stink . Just scrub spoons in hot water , that will be enough. I avoid dish detergents on any kind on wood kitchen hardware and do not led food remains dry and just scrub away erything as soon as possible..
How did I do? it's not very big but do you think it's good? I think it's OK for using just a Dremel and a Swiss Army Knife. Please Critique. <br> <br> <br>Thanks, <br>Pfarmkid
That's a great start! What a neat little spoon! What do you think you'll use it for? I could imagine keeping that small spoon in my pocket so that it's ready at a moments notice :)
I can tell on my personal practice that wood spoons and alike kitchen stuff are best in teflon pans and pots use and differently from nylon made spoons they do not melt and do smell better when accidentally burnt

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