Introduction: Sprocket Any Lens,,and Send Pixles Through the Lab, With the Blue Lump Cam
i really like the sprocket hole effect on images(like the diana,spinner,sprocket rocket and holga cameras),also it means that im getting maximum value from the film by using as much of it as possible. i also wanted to shoot this format with fast lenses (f stops low like f2) then i also use my wide lenses by increasing the frame inside the camera i get to capture the distortion at the edge of the lens and get a little vignetting as well.
Step 1: Required Parts and Tools to Go Sprokettey Through a M49 Lens.
metal leaf shutter from waterdamaged praktica from my camera parts box
lens mount m42 from camera parts box
rangefinder camera fed5 (also damaged)
viewfinder from kodak disposable camera
a small spring (from my parts box)
0.5mm aluminium sheet
solid wire 0.4mm
craft foam sheet 2mm
scrap plastic 1.5mm (from my ps3 case)
self adhesive felt
Step 2: Get a Metal Shutter From Busted Camera
a metal leaf shutter from a broken ,blah blah blah, left in a parts box.
i was originally going to use a solenoid to operate it, (type from model railway points changer)
i ended up just using a lever.as a reliable option.i used the lever from the cameras original self-timer ,so that the design stays contiguous .
i also reduced the shutter to one side, only the top set of leaves, to make it simple , also the rust was jamming one side.
ps, im sorry that this first step is bit of a harsh one "have a shutter" i am working on ways to make a big shutter as simply as possible,
Step 3: Prepare Your Lens Mount.
the m49mount, another parts box treasure, needed a ring to push the aperture pin on any auto stop down lens. other wise id be shooting at the lenses widest aperture all the time.
the original mount was a m39, these lenses need to be closer to the film to focus, i changed it to the more common m49 to give me more space for parts at the front end, and it gives me a greater range of lenses to try.
the ring is thin aluminium cut with a step drill. spaced with foam and bolts and nut like things hold it together.
the bolts and nut things are from the bodys original mount, the spacing is different so i had to separate the parts and hope they dont rotate in the way of anything.
Step 4: Make a Wonkey Box to Protect the Moving Parts.
the shutter is a little bit delicate so i made a case to keep it all in. aluminium is easy to cut (sturdy scissors) once bent at 90 degrees on two edges its rather rigid.
the idea is to keep the whole lens mount and shutter package just under 16 mm thick , thus keeping the lens at a near correct distance from the film.
the construction is crude , sticky tape and wire hold it together. the filler later will do all the proper holding.
Step 5: Stop the Camera From Masking Off Your Sprocket Holes.
after taking out of the inside of the fed camera
(cloth shutter* ,top plate,light meter,range finder prisms.slow speed clockwork, and self timer)
leave in the
wind on and rewind function mechanism,
the shutter housing *holds the cloth and rollers, its easy to take off and put back,remember to not loose the sprocket drive bit.it sits in the side of the shutter house.
then you can make the frame nice and big,i made the frame its final size later in the build a little bigger than shown.(risking debris in the shutter)
i would recommend getting your frame size you want at this stage.
u can use a pencil to draw the frame size onto the plate, then remove the plate from the film cover(slides onto springy bits) line the plate up with the pencil marks , use a marker to draw around the plate onto the body (surface where the film goes)
when increasing the frame it can be as big as the film but if your keeping the film pressure plate it will need to be supported (not pushing the film through the frame toward the lens and messing up the focus)
also any edges need to be very smooth (not snagging or scratching your film.)
for extra big frame using as much of the cameras internal surface, the frame will become off center to the lens(cloth shutters tend to use more space at one end of the shutter housing)
to correct this the lens has to be moved to one side a little bit. this will involve cutting the front of the camera so the hole for the lens lines up with the frame.
Step 6: Epoxy the Rag Tag Shutter Assembely to the Front.
all the bits are tied together with wire, to keep them in place ,while initial glueing , its all left there as i fill over it with a more solid material. all the time trying to keep the lens mount front edge 45.46mm away from the film pressure plate.
Step 7: Wedging in a Nice Spring, Then Start Filling.
I wanted a nice snappy spring,i made a selection from the spring box(parts box) hooked it around the shutter lever, all tied in with the five minute rule then lots of filler keeps the wires from moving
also fill any holes in the top and bottom that might let light in where it aint supposed to be.
Step 8: A Little Sanding and Its Got Basic Function.
Step 9: Make It Look Nice
i wanted the filler to kinda represent the original forms of the fed body, by applying shapes of filler , part by part, following the original lines,i used a roll of sticky pad to act as a mask, then i sanded the extra bits smooth.
a layer of electrical tape works if you want to fill close to a part without sticking to it, chrome film back reaches round the front of the camera.it has to be removable to change film.
remember to fill the holes in the top(under where the top plate goes)
leatherette and paint should do the rest.
Step 10: Undercoat.
this acts as an undercoat,also gives a better idea of the appearance while i decide on a colour.
and later when refitting the top cover , the paint will scratch where its making contact (not fitting) ,giving me a clue what part of the top plate needs adjusting in order to fit.
also if the final colour misses a bit, black looks less obvious.
Step 11: A OK, Ish
just to see if anything has gone terribly wrong, magic tape where the film goes ,and see if there is anything resembling a focused image. once a lens attached and set to the distance of what its pointing at.
Step 12: Getting a Viewfinder Into the Top Plate.
the disposable cameras viewfinder lenses are made from one continuous piece of plastic,making the transplant easy. i dont need to worry about the lens spacing..i just drill a hole front and back then file to shape and size.over lapping holes will be fixed with filler later. dont glue the plastic in , in yet just make sure it fits.
then get the top plate to fit the body, i tried to remove as little metal as possible.
bend and cut the top cover to fit,on the body, u cant hack into the body filler because its full of shutter.
(tin snips and angle needle nose pliers are good tools for this.)
take off a little bit at a time.
uncutting it tricky remember wisely.
Step 13: Fill the Excess Holes in the Top Cover
initial blobbing over, i masked the outside of the holes with electrical tape to get sort of flat, then filled through the inside.i also stuffed a bit of foam in the viewfinder hole that overlaped with another unwanted hole.
unmasking and trimming the filler when its not fully set.
(youtube was sending threatening emails about the vids original soundtrack.)
advise turn your volume down or off
the next fill, more of a get the bits the first fill missed.
the second lot of trimming,
final file and sand to make the shape.
Step 14: Finally Fitting the Viewfinder , and the Flash Trigger Stuff.
now all the filling is done, and theres a base coat of paint on, you can put the accessorys on the top plate.
the wire goes through the viewfinder plastic, so the assembly order is important.
solder wire to hot shoe
put wire through viewfinder plastic
glue viewfinder in place ,
solder wire to push switch,
fit push switch, (i needed to add washers hold the switch)
Step 15: Wrap It in Leather of the Very Finest Plastic.
to make the camera look more like one continuous device ,the original design is carried over the new materials.
parts of leatherette from a similar camera are cut to shape with blades and scissors ,with a test to fit and adjust(trim) process.
contact adhesive sticks it in place.
Step 16: Think of Someone You Llike and Pick a Colour.
air-fix paint and a brush
Step 17: Add a Dinky Adjustment Thingy.
the lens test was a little far sighted, focus on near objects with slightly far numbers on lens, focus at infinity before infinity on lens.
keeping the fens a little further away from the film will help fix this,
it fits inside the lens mount on the camera ,
i later made the shim a removable accessory, and i gave up on the felt.
Step 18: Shoot Some Sprockets!
add some film and and close the back and take sprocketty pictures with any lens you please.mostly i took pictures with a zenitar fisheye lens (180 wide diagonally) when the lens has more film to project onto the effects are nice,
Step 19: Playing With an Ohnar Zoom Reverser
i think about pixels
Step 20: Paying With Macro Lens and Macro Rings. How Close Can It Go..
Step 21: Adding Pixles to Film Wherever You Go.
old pocket television (with av/video input)
cctv camera or vehicle reversing camera.
a macro lens
macro extender tubes
lots of aa batterys and holders 2x4 and 1x 8
rigid lens hood
tiny heat sinc
switches for power
Step 22: Communication and Spreading the 6v About a Bit.
the tv and viewfinder require 6v. these videos im testing if they are happy sharing power supply. i later upgrade to 2 lots of 4 aa batterys to have 6v at a higher amperage.
Step 23: Glueing and Maching Together.
more info on the viewfinder via my back to front camera1 step 7
opening the tv so i can chop at the case without breaking the insides. marking the position for the lens hood, (acts as spacer for lens and screen)
grinding the tv case so the hood will sit flush, i got something in my eye whilst doing this,i had to keep going as i have no editing software.
epoxying the lens hood on, (heat activated strong stuff)
Step 24: Preview of the Prieview Ooh Woo Moo Iew
made so i could tell how bright the screen is .(but i cannot get a perpendicular view to the screen.)
i added the prism from the rangefinder to bend the light 90 degrees from the screen.
Step 25: Sticking the Wires Together.
the basics of the wires together , i will shorten dangley bits later and wrap in zip ties. oh and the reversing cameras been glued to the front, (it runs on 12v so thats a gap in the top for 8aa batterys.)
i added a switch to the video part of the camera so it can switch to an external input. or output its video feed.
the video part has a wire for mirror image so i put a switch on that as well.
i also add paint here and there as i decide what to do and how it will look.
Step 26: Make the Camera Bit Look Intergrated
looks better then seeing the mount, i use tape to mask where i dont want the gunk, i later realised id put it on upside down, so while fixing that i added a heat sync.
Step 27: More 6v, and a Nicer Video Input/output Socket.
the batterys drained quickly to the tv and viewfinder, i used the original battery space enlarged and extended to hold the 8aa , two lots of 4 in parallel.
i also added a phono socket , so it can output a video feed or record (stills) an incoming feed.
Step 28: Ergonomic Consideration.
,added a bolt on handel so it has better balence when in use.
also felt that the way the apparatus stands without the handel attached saw not good enougth, so i found a better shaped piece of metal to attach under the camera body , and made a solid lump of bodyfiller attached to the support structure beneath the tv, it approximately follows the shape of the tv, and has a nice flat base.
Step 29: Some Test Shots.
notes made during the test rolls
1 i forgot to take the handle with me which made holding it difficult.
solution remember handle
2 getting the screen brightness correct via the prism is near impossible.
solution calibrate before then tape over control
3 underexposed, i was using a short second exposure time.
solution use a long second
4 images have a washed appearance , probable cause stray-light
solution add some tape around screen to reduce white frame, also put some tape over most of prism
5 focus could be better.
6 heavy grain, 400asa fuji film
solution use 200 asa
7 the brightness difference between the top and bottom of the image is a lot.due to the tint viewing angle of the primitive screen , i cannot fix this.