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This is my way to make stainless scoop.

I used silver for brazing, but of course it can be weld too.

Here, in Finland these are usually used in the sauna, for pouring / throwing water to the stones.

But i have used one in our garden too, for watering plants etc, works specially in hard to reach places...

As a material i used stainless 314 pipe, in thickness 2.6mm, and 3mm thick plate for the bottom and 8mm diameter pipe for shaft.

Aga silco 30ag silver, and Aga silco 600rs flux.


Step 1: The Curve...

Im a little cheapskate..

That's one reason why i mostly use re-used materials, trying to keep this planet viable could be another. :)

You can buy pipe curve's from the hw-stores too, if you don't find suitable from the recycling center.

But, those are somewhat expensive.

So, i used old bent tube, cut a curve out from it with angle grinder and depurred the edges.

Step 2: Scoop..

This is the way i have noticed to be easiest.

I placed the steel plate to my wise, tightened it straight.

If you have powerfull torch, you don't need to mind about heat conductance.

Otherwise, you should place the plate to the surface wich conducts heat poorly, ceramic tile for example.

Also you should cut the plate smaller than in my example picture, so you don't need to heat unnecessarily big area.

Heat the plate and tube around 600 degrees of celsius. When it starts to be brown its somewhat close. ( it depends from the solder you use. Usually silver solders melt between 600-670 degrees of celsius)

Pour little flux to the plate. Then place the tube on top of the flux.

Heat both, tube and plate until you see that flux comes clear and runny.

Now apply silver solder to the joint between tube and plate. If it doesn't start to melt, the heat little more.

Don't melt the silver with flame, carefully heat the objects, and then melt the silver against them.

Don't overheat, otherwise flux starts to splash, also you should apply solder within 10-15 minutes after flux is heated. ( read the instructions from the backage, those may vary between different brands.)


After brazingi cut the extra from the plate with angle grinder, and the rounded the bottom using flap disc.

Finally polished it with drill mounted flap sander.

Step 3: Shaft..

Shaft is made from 8mm pipe.

I hammered it flat, and shaped so that it fits nicely to the side of the tube.

Brazing the shaft is little tricky task.

You can't now heat the whole tube to the 600 degrees, otherwise the bottom drops out.

Heat the tube "near 600 degrees", when it starts to change little colour then apply the flux and carefully melt little drop of silver to the joint with flame. Heat the drop carefully until it starts to run, then apply little more silver to it, until joint is done. Use small flame.

You can remove unwanted silver by sanding it away. Flux is easy to remove with hot water, steel brush or mild citric acid.

Step 4: Handle..

Handle is made from broom handle. I did some grooves to the end of the shaft with angle grinder.

Then i drilled a hole to the handle, and glued together with strong epoxy.

Finally i toasted handle with torch and then sanded carefully with fine sanding paper.

Handle is finished with varnish, metal parts are polished with autosol chrome paste metal polish.

Step 5: Finished...

Scoop can be decorated with engravings too.

Specially if you give one as a gift. Here in Finland these are good house-warming gifts, because nearly every home here has a sauna, or at least possibility to use one.

Video shows one version made with tig welder.

<p>While I haven't tried it, it would at least be worth checking with local muffler shops since most cars now have stainless steel exhaust systems. These shops should be a good source of used large-diameter tubing. (Not for food use, although it could probably be cleaned) </p>
<p>Actually, most cars used aluminized steel that is very effective against corrosion. It kind of looks like unpolished stainless but is very different in practice.</p>
<p>The shop where I had my pickup outfitted with a dual exhaust used stainless steel. I had my choice of several materials, such as plain steel, stainless steel, and like you said, aluminized steel.</p>
<p>Man-o-man does this give me ideas for variations on a theme, too bad I don't have a shop at the moment to carry them out. 8~}(</p>
<p>Great work! I really like the scoop, I think I would use it more in the kitchen, but it looks great! I like the engraving you've done as well! What did you use to engrave the scoop? A small rotary tool?</p>
Thank you. Yes, its made with dremel rotary tool using tungsten carbide cutter. Colour comes from carefully heating with torch.
<p>Once again, well done! The carving on the barrel of the scoop finishes the tool off. It's a fine piece of work, and I'm envious of all the tools people have that they can make all this stuff! I have Some tools, but Not the kinds that would allow me to make this water scoop. I had a friend here that was from Finland and he was a great friend! A great guy, and I've met others as well. Finlanders are an awesome bunch of people! I'm also especially glad to hear how your nation absolutely SPANKED the Russians during the second great war! Proving quality beats out Quantity every time!!! ;)</p>
Thank you. I think its the 7-8 months dark season every year, it makes silent but perseverance people. ?
<p>Just a thought, if using in the kitchen, be sure that the material used is non-toxic. I'd consider a new stainless tube.</p>
I use 314 stainless. It can be cleaned with strong acid, of course it needs to be done before brazing, or it melts silver away.
<p>Of course, you're correct! I have some old Stainless steel piping used in an old Dairy Farm. It's clean and was only used for water. I couldn't imagine using a steel pipe that maybe might have been used as a oil pipe for an engine or something like that! Yuke! you'e never get that stuff out! LOL</p>
<p>Very nice work</p>
Thank you!
<p>I like your hand drill mount, very handy!</p>
Thanks. Its little ugly, but works. ?

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Bio: Just a fellow who want's to learn new tricks and skills.
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