Introduction: Stainless Spotlight

Picture of Stainless Spotlight

Hi

This is instructable about simple spotlight for my workshop.

It has a magnet as a stand, so it can be mount to all metal objects.

I bought a 4 W led from my local had-store. Its made to be used in boat, its watertight and uses 12V voltage.

I had 12V 1A transformer, i used it as a power source. it suits more than better to this job.


Video shows the making.

Casing is made from 40mm pipe with 1mm wall, and 0.85mm thick sheet.

Tools used:

Tig

Angle grinder

Random orbital sander

Pliers, ( bending brake )

Hammer

Soldering equipments.

Compass

Drill


Step 1: Shaping the Pipe.

Picture of Shaping the Pipe.

I started with hitting center point to the plate.

Then drilled hole with 22mm diameter. ( that was the size of the led)

Cut the shapes out with angle grinder, using 1mm thick cut off wheel.

Round part to the end of the pipe, i shaped round with 40 grit flap disc.

Cut next to line, not above it. Its more accurate.

When you keep the cutting part of the disc, between 7-8 clock. Disc is most stabile point and doesn't rush up or down.

You can feel, if the disc starts to stuck, then lift the disc out, and wait.

When you cut with the angle grinder, it produces heat to the workpiece, that heat makes the cut rail to get wider.

Immediatelly, when metal starts to cool down, it shrinks, result is that the cut rail gets smaller than original widht was.

That makes disc to stuck or jump, (up, forward or down)


Step 2: Feets

Picture of Feets

Feets we're very simple.

Cut with angle grinder from that same material.

Just two slices with holes in the both ends.

I made bends to both parts.

"Finger" is for securing powercord.

Connecting happens with screw, directly to the magnet.

Casing will be connected to the feets with rivet nuts and cut screw.

Step 3: Body

Picture of Body

At first i weld the cut ring to the pipe.

This makes simple body for the led.

Used tig and 32A current, because smallest electrode that i had was 2.4mm diameter.

It was too big to this task, so i used little too high current to get stable arc.

Better option would be use 1.6mm electrode and 20-25A or less current.

I use Red (Thoriated tungsten electrodes) with stainless materials.

After welding the ring, i shaped the lid with hammer, using smaller pipe as a template.

Then i copied the shapes of the lid to the bent plate, and cut tthe shapes out with angle grinder.

Round shapes i made again with flap disc.

Remember to protect yourself from the uv-radiation of the arc.

Also, arc (uv-radiation) produces ozone, wich very quickly makes you feel sick.

I use motorized welding fume respirator if i weld more than little tacks.

Step 4: Welding..

Picture of Welding..

I shaped the parts for the sides of the body, little bigger than the final shape is.

This allows me to use that extra as an additive, i just melt the edges together.

If there is any opening after tacking, just gently hammer it down.

This is actually quite important, because thin materials easily melts trought (makes a hole) from open areas.

After tacking, i removed that extra with angle grinder.

Still, i left little extra material to the sides, that i used as an additive when weld the pieces together.

Couple spots has little too big cap, i used additive in those spots.

Its good to let the workpiece to cool down between welds.

After welding i carefully shaped the welds with 80 grit fiber disc. ( no matter flap, or fiber..)

If you scratch surfaces at this point, those scratches are hard to remove, and you need to start finishing from lower grit paper, and continue slowly 120-180-220-320...

Because there was no scratches, I could finish the surface directly with random orbital sander and 320 grit paper.

After that i shaped the body to its final shape. I made the shaping at this point, because bigger area takes more heat to itself, very small and thin pieces melt easily.

Step 5: Assembling

Picture of Assembling

Drilled hole through both sides of the casing, i used M5 nut rivets, wich go to 7mm hole.

Placed a piece of wood between the sides to avoid sides to bend.

Led was ready to install package.

Just installed it to the hole and soldered wires to the transformer. ( check the polarity before soldering )

Secured connections with heatshrinks and the wiring with plastic sock.

Placed heatshrink on top of the plastic sock too, to the both ends, and one to the point where im going to attach it to the clip on the feet.

Finger in the other feet, works as a wire clamp. I squeezed it around to wire with pliers.

Step 6: Finished

Picture of Finished

Finished worklight.

I use it with my drill press.

Lamp doesn't need its own switch, because i have a "kill switch" on my drills, it unpowers my both drills and the lamp at the same time. I have placed it so, that i reach it with my hand or feet, in case of emergency.

Thanks for checking this out.

Remember to vote.

Comments

mtbike2 (author)2017-12-14
cobourgdave (author)2017-11-25

Very nice build, or more correctly a lovely carving of metal. You clearly have a lot of experience. Very entertaining as well as instructive. My personal thanks

Thank you very much.

gm280 (author)2017-11-26

Amazing metal working ability. I can say this wasn't your first build. You have an ability to shape metal to look like it is one solid piece. Bravo sir, bravo.

Tuomas Soikkeli (author)gm2802017-11-28

Thank you very much.
Yes, i have made something similar before.

About This Instructable

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Bio: Just a fellow who want's to learn new tricks and skills.
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