Step 7: (Optional) Quick and Easy Test

Ok, you've got everything wired up, you know you've got power, but the question is, did you wire everything up correctly? Let's check.

For this you'll need a resistor, and LED and some code.

Wire up a resistor and an LED as shown in the photos. For this one, I used a 330 OHM resistor, and a red LED. Take note of how you plug in the LED - they have polarity - the short leg goes into the negative/ground rail, and the longer, positive lead goes to the ATMega chip...pin 19. As before, if you're not sure what pin this is, refer to the Arduino mapping image in Step 4.

Now, you need to download the Arduino Sketch I've attached, open it in the Arduino software, and upload it to your chip. This will make Arduino pin 13 (but it's ATMega pin 19 as I mentioned in the previous paragraph) blink every second. It's from this great Getting Started with Arduino book I have.

Once you've hooked up your LED and resistor, programmed your chip, put it back on your breadboard, then you can connect up your power. You should get a blinking LED, which means you've hooked up everything correctly!

Below is a brief video of the circuit we just built with this blinking LED:

How do you program the board ?
Hello. This is Instructable is meant to show you how to build a minimal Arduino circuit that you can use <em>after</em> you've programmed the chip. In order for you to program the chip on this breadboard, you would have to add some more components. Maybe someone else may want to chime in...
What if I want to use Serial communication on breadboard, do I need a breakout board ?
<p>FTDI cable</p>
<p>Late answer... but you can use an Arduino Uno to program the chip... just put the chip on the Arduino board, upload the sketch to your chip and remove it from the Arduino board to use it on your board... you need to buy a chip that has the boot loader on already though.</p>
<p>everything worked out perfectly.</p><p>But how can I use the serial communication?</p><p>I am building a turbidity meter and need to calibrate it. I was trying to use the method described in <a href="http://arduino.cc/en/Tutorial/ArduinoToBreadboard" rel="nofollow">http://arduino.cc/en/Tutorial/ArduinoToBreadboard </a> , but I don't have an Arduino Duemilanove, only Arduino Uno.</p>
<p>Not preferable answer, but 2 ways to display info, either use lcd or use FTDI cable (if you are going to do lot of experimentation on bare arduinos)</p>
<p>I made it on a mini breadboard. It works perfectly. Thanks!</p>
<p>Actually, I was wrong using the 9v battery. The operating voltage for the ATMega is 1.8 - 5.5V. The range 5-16V indicated in step 1 refers to the Arduino board, not to the standalone ATMega.</p>
<p>so, you saved the chip or witnessed magic smoke ?</p>
<p>Shudnt the reset pin be pulled up to +5V?</p>
<p>I know that in TTL when you float a pin, it is high, so that's what I am assuming is happening here</p>
ah..that explains it..yea I went ahead and left floating and it worked..but now I know why..thanks!<br>
<p>Yeah, for stuff like this, just fooling around with the Arduino, you can leave it floating, but it can be unstable at times. So for mass production, they just pull it up.</p>
<p>Thank you for info, was just looking for this</p>
<p>I haven't had to so far...</p><p>Thanks for reading!</p>
<p>I made this using both the voltage regulator and the ceramic resonator. Works perfectly! Thanks!!</p>
<p>I would like to use your power option #1, but I don't see the instructions. It says they are under the reference links. Any help would be greatly appreciated.</p>
Hi, thanks for reading. It looks like the link I was referring to is dead. I apologize...I will remove the link. Check out the 'Adding circuitry for a power supply' section in the following link:<br>http://www.arduino.cc/en/Main/Standalone<br>That's what I was referring to for 'Option #1' basically.
<p>Thank you very much</p>
<p>Just wanted to say you've made an excellent Instructable here! I do have one question though; my script randomly resets partway through and I was wondering if this behaviour could be a result of using differently valued ceramic capacitors at the crystal. I am currently using 33pf, since this is just what I had available at home. It makes sense to me that this would be causing it, but just wanted a second opinion before I make the 1hr trip into town. Thanks, and once again, nice work!</p>
<p>The 22pf capacitors are actual recommended by the datasheet of the 16Mhz crystal so this is actually a standard..</p>
<p>Thank you for the kind comments. To be honest, I am no Arduino/electronic expert. What you could do is post your question to the Arduino forums - </p><p><a href="http://forum.arduino.cc" rel="nofollow">http://forum.arduino.cc</a></p><p>They're really great and knowledgeable over there.</p>
First of all: Great instructable! Very clear and precise instructions! <br> <br>Second of all: I've ordered all the parts and I want to begin making this project to replace my Arduino in a project that I'm currently working on. Only problem is, the project uses the Adafruit WiFi Shield (CC3000). How would I go about adding this onto the ATMega 328 chip?
Thank you for the kind words. I'm sorry but I've never worked with the WiFi shield before. However, if you look at this page: <br>http://learn.adafruit.com/adafruit-cc3000-wifi/connections <br>It looks like it tells you what connects to what. So you can just use jumper wires from the WiFi shield to your breadboarded Arduino (connecting them to the appropriate ATMega328 chip's pins on the breadboard). Check out Step 4 of my Instructable - the bottom right picture (pulled from Arduino's website) in particular - it shows you which physical ATMega328 pin correspond to the 'Arduino' pin name. Hope this helps.
Okay thanks a lot. That's what I was going to try doing but I wasn't sure if, in this project, all the pins that are on the arduino are also available when you re-create the arduino with the chip. What I mean is, since the wifi shield plugs into every port on the arduino, is there still every port when I make it using your instructable?
Yes all the same pins are still available (except for the ones that the wi-fi shield uses to talk to the Arduino/chip, although there may be exceptions to that) to you when you have the ATMega on the breadboard.
Okay thanks a lot :)
I believe that pin 13 has a built in resistor, but that may be on the p.c.b. itself.<br />
Correct, it's on the PCB next to the onboard LED.
This is a fantastic Instructable! Very nicely put together! I do have one question though that is related to the capacitors for the power. You mentioned above &quot;So I hooked up one 10uF capacitor near my power&quot; . Could you elaborate on that a little bit? Was the 10uF capacitor placed across the VCC and GND (Physical Pins 7 and 8 on the ATMega328)? If not where exactly did you place this cap? Also, do you need a cap for the AVCC (Physical Pin 20 on the ATMega328) as well?
A polarized capacitor is commonly used on any power source, often an Electrolytic such as the 10uf. On a positive supply such as Vcc place the negative lead to ground and the positive to Vcc. This dampens ring and other fluctuations in the voltage which can cause instability in the function of the device. Also a smaller one such as a .1uf or .01uf ceramic may be added as they tend to act to dampen higher frequency spikes &quot;noise&quot; on the supply voltage. A clean power supply always has good filtering.
Sure, I'm not even sure if I hooked this up properly, but what I did was place the negative lead of the cap right after the negative lead of the jack so it's basically 'between' the jack and the power rail of the breadboard that's connecting to the ATMega328. And the same goes for the positive lead of the cap - it's lead goes between the jack and the power rail. <br>If this isn't clear enough, I could probably take a photo and post it here.<br>And if I have this hooked up wrong, I would greatly appreciate it if someone with more knowledge would point it out and guide us to the proper way of hooking it up.<br>Thank you everyone for looking at my Instructable and thank you for leaving comments. I apologize for not really answering questions here. I feel that I am not qualified to do so, so I've been standing back and leaving it to the experts. ;)
Thank you for the reply. I did a little more research on this as well and thought I would post it here as well so anyone that runs across this would see the information. It sounds like two caps are recommended. These are being referred to as &quot;Decoupling&quot; or &quot;Bypass&quot; Caps. One across the VCC and GND (Pins 7 and 8) and another across the AVCC and GND (Pins 20 and 22) and it sounds like it is recommended that they be mounted as close to the pins on the ATMega328 as possible. (Make sure the the polarity is correct if you are using a polarized cap!) One of the explanations that I read about it says that this basically is was to pass any AC noise voltage to ground so that you are getting a clean DC voltage input. So getting the caps as close as possible to the pins makes sense in that you are basically cleaning up the noise at that point. .1uF caps are what is being used. A larger cap (10uF range) can also be used in the same way you did at the point where the voltage enters the breadboard or PC board. Hope this helps. :-) Cheers! <br><br>
I don't know if it's been said but this is the new link for the arduino chip... the ATmega328 with Arduino Optiboot (Uno) <br> <br>https://www.sparkfun.com/products/10524 <br> <br>Great guide, am going to use it as soon as some more chips arrive!
This is exactly the tutorial I was looking but the ATmega chip is so large that I can't use it on smaller projects. Do you know if I can program a smaller chip using my arduino?
There are plenty of different arduino compatible chips with varying amounts of outputs and features (and thus, size) You can get several of the common types with the bootloader preloaded from sparkfun's website or similar
You mean this?<br>http://hlt.media.mit.edu/?p=1229<br><br>It's a smaller avr chip, runs Arduino boot loader. Less capabilities of course..
This is what I have been looking for also. I have taken my setup Arduino 3 steps further. (It has not been with out a lot of difficulty, due to lack of feed back, as this has been an ongoing project for 3 months.) 1. Programming from the Serial I/O port of my desktop &amp; laptop; 2 USB Programming via USBtinyISP Pocket Programmer from Adafruit from my desktop &amp; laptop; 3. Interface board for the 8 pin dip chips ATtiny series using the USB Programmer from step 2. I hope to have my first instructable on these items posted shortly. I will answer questions as best I can until then.
Thanks!! set it up today and worked perfectly. Had to add the capacitor across the power otherwise it freaked out. well done <br> <br><iframe frameborder="0" height="315" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/hIVgHgI6dj8" width="560"></iframe>
You could also set up the internal clock and eliminate the crystal from the setup :D . I have recently programmed an Atmega48 using Arduino as an ISP. I will make an instructable about it.
Great howto! Looks like a perfect way to cut much of the price for an arduino pro in a permanent installation by just using the bare-bones microcontroller. I&nbsp;didn't know that it's possible to buy the Atmega with pre-installed arduino bootloader. Sounds nice.<br />
If it says arduino compatible it will come to you with the arduino boot loader all ready on it.
Could someone clarify this line:<br><br>&quot;make sure you place it between the capacitors and the chip/microcontroller&quot;<br><br>It was my understanding that each row of the bread board was a node in a circuit and it didn't matter what order (left to right) the leads are placed into it. Is this a correct understanding of nodes and rows on bread boards? <br><br>If so is there another reason the crystal needs to be between the capacitors and the chip?
I think he just means that you need to make sure that one cap is connected to each leg of the crystal rather than connecting both cpas to one leg
Wonderful 'Ible. Easy to understand, and complete. I just recieved the parts from Sparkfun.com, and am about to try it out!
It worked perfectly.
Awesome instructions, Thank you SO much for sharing! It hasn't been very long that I started playing with arduino and this definitely cleared up some questions I was having regarding multiple arduino projects with just one board.<br><br>I'd like to know, can this board be used with any chip or does it have to be an Atmega chip? Also, would you happen to know how to modify this board to so that batteries are used instead of power jack? I have a few projects in mind that require the use of batteries so it would help me a lot.<br><br>Thanks again for sharing!
Does this also work with 20pF capacitors? Can't get 22pF over here...

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