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Star Trek Movie Jacket TWOK (The Wrath of Kahn) Costume

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Step 12: Right Front

RIGHT FRONT
Note:  you can use 1 1/2" binding instead of 2" on right sides of K
a. Fold K vertically, right sides together, matching seam lines and mark center/fold
b. Turn under bottom seam allowance of K to wrong side and press (clip into seam allowance as needed to make allowance lie flat at point)
c. Push lining H/P aside so it will not be caught in the next steps
d. Place top point of K's seamline 7/16” down from top of turned edge of collar at junction of A/B.  Align wrong side fold of K with A/B seam on right front.  Pin or stitch baste K in place on top of A/B
e. On top right side of K, align binding seamline with K seamline leaving 1" tail on each end
f. Stitch from center top point of K to end of seam
g. Press binding towards shoulder
h. Align left front with right and mark placements for snaps at shoulder/outer point and next snap in.  Do not attach outer snap at this time, instead start on next one, sew through binding and K layers only
i. Continue to add snaps moving towards center of K, measuring 1 1/2" post to post and verifying placement by aligning with right front
j. Add chain segments between snaps
l. Trim seam allowance close to snaps and excess binding seam allowance if required to fully turn under K
m. Turn under K and blind stitch binding in place

n. On right side of K, align binding seamline with K seamline leaving 1" tail on each end.  Recommend fitting jacket with right front over left, to ensure proper placement of binding below K
o. Stitch from top, across previous binding, to bottom
p. Press binding out
q. Align left front with right and mark placements for snaps at shoulder/outer point and next snap down.  Do not attach outer snap at this time, instead start on next one, sew through binding and K layers only
r. Continue to add snaps moving down to bottom of K, measuring 1 1/2" post to post and verifying placement by aligning with right front
s. Add chain segments between snaps
t. Trim seam allowance close to snaps, including tail of top bining, and excess binding seam allowance if required to fully turn under K
u. Fold top tail under then turn binding under K, blind stitch in place, closing fold at top

v. On left side of K, align binding seamline with K seamline leaving 1" tail on each end
x. Stitch from top of K to 2" from hem line
y. Press bidning out
z. Trim seam allowance to 7/16" , turn binding under K and blind stitch in place, stopping 2" from hem line

aa. On top left side of K, align binding seamline with K seamline leaving 1" tail on each end.
ab. Stitch from outer edge, across previous binding, to intersecting seamline at center peak of K
ac. Press binding out
ad. Trim seam allowance to 7/16" , fold 1" tail under, then turn binding under K and blind stitch in place, closing fold at top at both ends
ae. Add final snap at shoulder/far right point through all layers except lining


OPTIONAL:  Use two lengths of binding, mitering at corner
Follow steps a-d above
e. Lay binding on K right sides together.  Leave a 1” tail of binding free, align binding stitching line with K seamline from center front (seam of A/B) to shoulder corner and pin in place
f. Mark corner point on binding, remove pins at corner and on binding only stay-stitch in seam allowance ½” on either side of corner.  Clip seam allowance to stay-stitching at corner mark, and repin binding
g. Begin stitching binding vertically at tip of A/B to seamline, turn and continue to stitch binding in place along seamline, pivoting at corner and folding excess fabric out of the way, down to bottom of K.  Leave tail for binding to continue to bottom of jacket for later fitting. 
h. Trim seam allowances to 7/16”
i. Remove seam allowance from unsewn edge of binding down to end of stitching
j. Press binding out to edge
k. Fold tail to outside and turn binding under
l. Sew binding outer edge in place with blind catch-stitch (or topstitch)
m. Place snap at point and sew through all layers except H/P
n. Add next snap at 1½” from post to post. If using sew-on snaps, ensure your stitching does not run along the outer edge of the binding.  Continue to add snaps across top to center front and down edge to waist, measuring after each snap.
o. Center chain segments between snaps and sew through all layers except H/P
p. Topstich across bottom of K.
q. Align seamlines of A/B/K and H and pin/baste in place
r. Lay binding on front right sides together.  Leave a 1” tail of binding free, align binding stitching line with K seamline from center front (seam of A/B) to flap corner and pin in place
s. Remove pins at corner on binding only and staystitch in seam allowance ½” on either side of corner mark .  Clip seam allowance to staystitching at corner mark
t. Begin stitching binding vertically at tip of A/B to seamline, turn and continue to stitch binding in place along seamline, pivoting at corner and folding excess fabric out of the way, down to 2” from bottom front
u. Trim seam allowances to 7/16”
v. Press binding out to edge
w. Turn binding to wrong side. Hand catch stitch with 7/16” seam on wrong side OR stitch-in-the-ditch from the front, being sure to catch binding underneath
 
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