Step 4: Pattern Notes

I worked with two different patterns and two different construction guides but found little consistency.  I highly recommend drafting up the pattern in a muslin before starting, as the pattern sizing does not correlate to any known size chart I could find on the internet, and you don't want to make mistakes with your nice wool fabric.

Back pattern piece:  Depending on the pattern, the center back piece might be cut on the fold or have a center seam.  Moive stills seem to show a seam down the center back.

Front overlap corner:  one pattern had this curved but again after viewing movie still and reading construction guides I changed this to a point.

Front A/B and Front Facings H & I:  The facing pieces have a notch at center front (where A & B join on the front).  This is because the collar is stitched right sides together and turned, but the overlap flap (B) is stitched with the wrong sides together with the seam allowances enclosed in the binding applied later.  I had trouble aligning the fabric pieces on both jackets at this point, and ended up taking pattern pieces A, B, J, and K (without seam allowances) and tracing new H, I and P pieces.

Sleeve placement:  The sleeves turned out to be the most difficult part of the jacket.  The designer's notes show the back sleeve seam joining the torso below the piping seam, while some authentic uniforms have the underarm sleeve seam match the torso side seam (A/D junction).  I could not get the sleeves from either of my patterns to align in a way that would match either of those placements and still fit the armscye correctly.  So I scoured books looking for a rule for placement, but found that the amount of sleeve cap ease and the placement of that ease varies widely by design.  It is common to ease only the top of the sleeve and sew the lower portion at a 1:1 ratio with the longer vertical seam running down the back of the arm.  The sleeve cap on my patterns was 16% larger than the armscye, which would require a good deal of easing.  On my test jacket I tried easing across the top of sleeve piece E from side seam to side seam, but still was left with gathering wrinkles.  The pattern that did have notches placed them quite low, so a full 75% of the cap would be eased if they were used as landmarks.  In the end I decided to stitch a bias strip along the entire sleeve seam, then aligned the top and bottom of the sleeve and armscye, and this resulted in the piping aligning with the back arm seam.
How much fabric was need to construct the jacket?
<p>I don't have access to my pattern to check the recommendations (moving/storage etc). I tend to over buy &quot;just in case&quot; I make a mistake, and purchased 3yds shell fabric but don't remember on the others It also will depend on the width of your fabric, there seems to be a general rule that the fancier/more expensive a fabric is, the narrower as well. I recommend you check the </p><p><a href="http://starfleet1701st.yuku.com/directory#.TynGl-xJJQg" rel="nofollow">http://starfleet1701st.yuku.com/directory#.TynGl-x...</a> site as they will likely already have it posted or have plenty of experienced folk to reply.</p><p>Good luck.</p>
Superb instructable, you saved my bacon as the lack of an exploded view meant I hadn't a clue about the order of construction. Thanks so much!!!
Didn't the movie costumes use magnets to secure the flap?
According to everything I read, the actual jackets used snaps, but the designer (Robert Fletcher) liked the idea of magnets as futuristic and used the chain to convey that. I actually looked at using magnets instead of snaps, but decided it wasn't worth the trouble or expense. I would have wanted strong magnets that would work through fabric, but wouldn't want then too big, and I couldn't think of a good way to secure them except with glue that might leave a hard residue.
I guess you could sew them into pockets between 2 pieces of ribbon, then sew the ribbon between the lining and red fabric. Those strong magnets are pretty expensive though.
That is some of the best craftsmanship or craftswomanship I have seen in this part of the galaxy. Thanks for the detail on the bespoke uniform.
You have no idea how flattering it is to have this called bespoke, here I just thought it was OCD taking over. ;) Thanks

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