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“TRAITOR!”

If you have seen Star Wars, The Force Awakens, then you know what I am talking about. The enraged shout of the First Order Stormtrooper, FN-2199, as he confronts Finn during the raid at Maz Kanata's.

This is immediately followed by an EPIC fight!

Finn with the lightsaber and FN-2199 with his First Order Riot Baton.

You know you want one! No, not the lightsaber, the riot baton!

This is how I made one out of PVC pipe.

Step 1: Materials!

These are the materials I used to make my baton.

Pipes:

  • 22 inches of 1 ½” PVC
  • 26 inches of 1” PVC
  • 11 inches of ¾” PVC
    • *Note: Make sure the 1” pipe can easily slide inside the 1 ½” pipe.*
  • 2 – 1” PVC tee-joints
  • 3 – ¾” PVC end caps
    • *Note: Make sure the end cap fits inside the tee-joints*
  • 2 – 1” PVC end cap
  • 1 – ¾ PVC coupling
    • *Note: Make sure the coupling fits inside the tee-joints*
  • 19 inch length of large diameter cardboard shipping tube

Hardware:

  • 2 – caps from plastic water bottles
  • 2 – 1 1/2” screws
  • 1 – 3” screw
  • 3 – washers same diameter as screws
  • 1 large electrical wire twist connector

Tools and other:

  • Hacksaw
  • File
  • Drill with small diameter bit
  • poster board at least 6" x 9"
  • Shiny silver duct tape (not dull)
  • White spray paint
  • White paint
  • Glossy black spray paint
  • Glossy black paint
  • Red paint
  • Silver paint
  • Glue, epoxy or contact cement
  • Masking tape
  • Tape measure
  • Scissors
  • Foam paint brushes
  • Small paint brushes

Step 2: Episode 1: the Phantom Step

  1. Measure and cut off 6” from the 22” length of 1 ½” PVC. This will leave you 16”.
  2. File off any rough edges from both pieces.
  3. Measure and cut off 8” from the 26” length of 1” PVC. This will leave you 18”.
  4. File off any rough edges from both pieces.
  5. Measure and cut off 3” from the 11” length of ¾” PVC. This will leave you 8”.
  6. File off any rough edges from both pieces.
  7. Cut the cardboard tube lengthwise in half.
  8. Cut a 2” diagonal from each end of the cardboard. My cuts had rough edges but I went over it with masking tape to make a straight line. The masking tape also gave a more uniform surface to paint. This will make the conductor contact vanes.

Step 3: Episode 2: Attack of the Steps

This step will make the caps to cover the screws holding the conductor vanes, the cap for the middle section between the conductor vanes, and the points on the handle end.

**They need to be curved to fit the shape of the tube.**

  1. With the curve side of the file, wear down the sides of the water bottle caps making a concave edge.
  2. With the curve side of the file, wear down the open sides of the 1" end cap making another concave edge.

Step 4: Episode 3: Revenge of the Steps

To make the raised pyramid shaped points on the handle end of the baton, use the poster board.

  1. Measure and cut off three 1" x 6" strips from the 6" x 9" poster board leaving a 6" x 6" square. These strips will become the sides and ends.
  2. Cut one of the 1" x 6" strips into four 1 1/2" strips.
  3. Cut a curve into two of the 1 1/2" strips. This will make the end pieces.
  4. Mark the remaining 6" x 6" square into a grid of 1/2" squares. This will make it 12 x 12 grid.
  5. Please refer to the figure for simple step clarification.
  6. Measure this grid out to 3 x 3 squares.
  7. Make lines at the indicated rows.
  8. Make crossing lines as indicated.
  9. Cut along the indicated areas.
  10. Fold at the appropriate seams.
  11. Now that you have individual forms, fold them, overlapping the small "yellow" triangles and secure them with the glue.
  12. Attach them together into a row using the 1" x 6" strips.
  13. Attach the curved end pieces to each end.

(AUTHOR'S NOTE: This step would be much MUCH easier to just 3D print the parts using an M3D Micro 3D Printer, but I do not have yet have one, so I am having to do this manually.)

Step 5: Step Wars: the Clone Wars

  1. Attach the ¾ coupling to one end of the 8” length of ¾” PVC using epoxy.
  2. When the 8” length of ¾” pipe is dry, cut the coupling in half.
  3. File off any rough edges.
  4. Attach one ¾” end cap to the other end of the 8” length of ¾” PVC using epoxy. This will be the handle.
  5. Attach both parts of the 1” PVC pipes to opposite ends of one of the tee-joints using epoxy.
  6. Attach a ¾” end cap to one end of the 3” length of ¾” PVC using epoxy.
  7. Insert the 3” length of ¾” PVC into the second tee-joint.
  8. Push the end cap into the joint leaving about half poking out.
  9. Attach the other ¾” end cap onto the opposite end of the 3” length of ¾” pipe inside the tee-joint with the epoxy. Make sure the same amount is poking out from both ends of the tee-joint.
  10. Apply contact cement over the 8” length of 1” pipe.
  11. Slide the 6” length of 1 1/2” pipe over the epoxy.
  12. Attach 1” cap to end of 8” length of 1” pipe with epoxy.
  13. Apply contact cement of the 18” length of 1” pipe.
  14. Slide the 16” length of 1 ½” pipe over the epoxy.
  15. Attach the tee-joint with the ¾” tube to the end of the 1” pipe using epoxy. Make sure the openings are parallel to the opening of the other tee-joint.

If any of your seams have noticeable gaps, add a bead of epoxy around each to smooth them out.

Step 6: Episode 4: a New Step

In a well ventilated area, paint some of the parts.

  • The conductor vanes will be white.
  • The handle points will be black.
  • The large electrical wire twist connector will be silver.
  • The handle will be black.

When the handle is dry:

  1. Paint the end cap silver.
  2. With the shiny duct tape make 7 strips about 1" wide and 4" long.
  3. Wrap 6 of the strips around the black handle leaving a small space between each strip.
  4. Wrap the last strip around the silver cap on the handle.

Step 7: Episode 5: the Step Strike Back

  1. Using the drill, make a pilot hole directly in the center of each 3/4" cap in the tee-joint.
  2. Make another pilot hole directly in the center of the concave 1" cap.
  3. Make another pilot hole directly in the center of the tee-joint.
  4. Start the 3" screw and one of the washers, into the outside of the concave cap until it is level to the edge of the cap.
  5. Apply contact cement along the edge of the concave cap.
  6. Line up the screw with the hole in the tee-joint.
  7. Screw the cap to the tee-joint careful not to go too fast or too deep and crack the cap or the tee-joint.
  8. Apply contact cement around the outer edge of the cap where it meets the tee-joint to fill in any gaps.
  9. Drill a hole about 4" into the end of the conductor vanes.
  10. Add epoxy to the holes of the 3/4" caps in tee-joint.
  11. Using the 1 1/2" screws and washers attach the conductor vanes to the 3/4" caps inside the tee-joint.
  12. Apply epoxy to the concave edge of the water bottle caps.
  13. Attach them over the screws and washers on the conductor vanes.
  14. Apply epoxy to fill in any gaps in the seam of the cap and the vane.

Step 8: Episode 6: Return of the Step

Now that the conductor vanes are attached, it is time to paint the whole thing white.

  1. In a well ventilated area, hang the baton and give it several even coats with the white spray paint.
  2. Once it is dry, tape off the sections leaving an open strip about 1 inch wide along the length of the shaft to the tee-joint.
  3. On the handle tape off the sides leaving the top and bottom open to be painted.
  4. Paint these open sections black with the foam brush and paint.
  5. Repeat the taping and black paint to the other side.
  6. Once dry, remove the tape.
  7. Touch up any parts, white or black, with the small brushes.

Step 9: Episode 7: the Step Awakens

Now it is time to put the rest of it together!

  1. First, with the epoxy, glue the handle points to the short end of the baton. It will be on the side opposite the tee-joint opening.
  2. Then with black paint add the two triangle shaped and small round "buttons" to the tee-joint.
  3. Repeat for the other side.
  4. Using the shiny duct tape, make 15 strips about 1" x 6".
  5. Beginning on the conductor vanes, wrap one strip around the center of the vane.
  6. Then wrap another strip at each of of each vane. Make sure you are just far enough in to be next to the angles on the ends.
  7. Wrap the final strips of the vane centered between the middle and end strips.
  8. Repeat for the second vane.
  9. Wrap one strip around the end cap just after the tee-joint holding the vanes.
  10. Wrap another just on the other side of the same tee-joint.
  11. Wrap another strip where the other tee-joint meets the shaft. Leave about 1/2" of black exposed after the strip.
  12. The last two strips wrap evenly spaced between the two tee-joints.
  13. With the epoxy, secure the silver painted wire connector cap to the end of the baton.
  14. Secure the handle to the open tee-joint with the contact cement.
  15. The final detail will be adding the red lights along each side in the black stripe of the shaft using the red paint.

Step 10: ...The End!

There you have it!

Now you have your own First Order Riot Baton to take on any of your lightsaber yielding opponents, just like the one FN-2199 used against Finn!

Thank you very much for checking out my 'ible.

Happy constructing!

(Author's Note: I have already began plans for my FORB 2.0 design. It will incorporate lights and will also pivot in the center. Stay tuned!)

<p>This really is a great build buddy, top work.</p><p>Personally I thought is was a swing motion from the base like you side, but either way deffo will be adding this to my Trooper build when complete </p>
<p>Awesome!</p>
Thanks! It was fun to make.
<p>FN-2199 was my favorite character. I find the lable &quot;baton&quot; very intruiging. I love the idea of a weapon baton.</p>
<p>I know! Even though the character and weapon had approximately 60 seconds of screen time, I found it to be memorable an iconic! I had to have one!!!</p>
<p>Your last (10th step) should have been called The Last Step, new info's out that Star Wars VIII is The Last Jedi. Fun build!</p>
<p>Ah! Yes, that would be very fun and appropriate. </p><p>Thanks for checking it out!</p>
Tr-8r approves!
<p>Hahahaha! Thanks!</p>
Super bad a$$!
<p>LOL! Thanks PaperWings!!</p>
<p>A great project, it was a lot of fun to make!</p>
<p>WOW!!! That looks FANTASTIC!!! Well done! I am so glad you enjoyed making it!</p>
<p>You deserve a medal and i see that have 2 so far</p>
:) thanks JackC88!!
<p>I'm cutting the pvc for it now, I will have to go check out a new piece of 1 1/2&quot; the one I have does not fit snugly around the 1&quot;. It may be due to the fact that it sat in a shop for a long time, possibly expanded over the years. </p>
FANTASTIC!!!<br>Perhaps if you have a small scrap piece of 1&quot; you can take that with you to insure it fits. Some pipe have different wall thicknesses without changing the actual diameter.<br>Please post when you are done!
This is fantastic I will try making it
Thank you! Yes, please do, and post pictures when it is complete!
<p>cool</p>
<p>Thank you, sheppenstein! :)</p>
<p>Looking good! I've modelled one myself and will probably do an instructable for it once I've got the parts printed (probably a couple of weeks away yet).</p><p>I've enjoyed reading the comments on how people think it extends and I agree that it pivots outwards from the end. I've seen some photographs that shed a bit more light on that theory (but sadly I'm not allowed to share those). What I can say is, while the Visual Dictionary is a great source, it's not the be-all and end-all of each prop shown.</p><p>The speed at which it appears to extend on screen is more than likely down to some top notch editing. I'm also pretty sure that the one that FN-2199 extends is the show piece and there would have been a &quot;stunt&quot; version made that was more solid for the actual battle scenes.</p><p>Anyhoo, here are some renders of mine. :)</p>
<p>Well, PariahProps, if your renders are any indication, your Z6 baton will look incredible! I look forward to seeing the final prop!</p><p>I may just be going on a limb, but based on your profile name and your exclusive (elusive) insight into the actual design, you may have been privy to the actual design of the official Z6 units! If that is the case, THAT IS AWESOME!</p><p>I appreciate your input on this subject!</p><p>Thanks!</p>
Oh how I wish that was the case! Sadly I wasn't directly involved, I'm just lucky enough to know quite a few interesting people ;)
<p>LOL! Still, just knowing interesting people (espeically those who DO know) is quite awesome!</p>
<p>Great job.</p>
Thank you, ohoilett!
<p>I thought that I was the only one fascinated by this thing when I 1st saw it. Although I'm 90% sure that it swings OUT, in my heart I wish that I extended. I'm attaching a gif that I've study waaaay too long. </p><p></p>
<p>You are not alone! I was intrigued by the notion that it can block a lightsaber and not BE a lightsaber! </p><p>I think extending would make more tactical sense, much like current law enforcement batons extend with the flick of a wrist. Perhaps the future films could touch just a little more on the item to give us fans some geek closure! Yes, I am talking to you, JJ Abrams! :) (After all, Chewie's bow-caster got some focused screen time.)</p>
<p>Spot on. Esp if you consider how much buzz has been created around TR-80R. (FN-2199)</p><p>BTW, the gif. link to this in action can be found here (hope it works): </p><p><a href="http://i0.kym-cdn.com/photos/images/original/001/056/019/5f0.gif" rel="nofollow">http://i0.kym-cdn.com/photos/images/original/001/056/019/5f0.gif</a></p>
<p>In reference to some of the posts further down, If you save the .gif to your computer and go through it frame by frame, there is a frame where there is a blurred 'steam'? 'static'? 'halo'? burst on the rear side of the baton, and then the business end is in place. Going back and forth between the two seems fairly evident that it pivots into place, albeit extremely quickly. &lt;1/24th of a second maybe? Given frame speeds as they used to be in movies.....</p>
That is quick! Good eyes!!<br> If it slid out instead of swinging out, why would it need that the parts that look like it makes a joint and pivot caps?
<p>Yes, the pivot points seals the deal. It def. swings open. It's just something about it coming out verses swinging open. Maybe I'm thinking of a switch blade knife and the other types that come out the front. The latter seems more ... bad ass? Or it could be a Freudian thing, hell if I know!</p>
<p>Disagree... If you study the gif as a whole and then the isolated motions of the shoulder, elbow, and wrist in frames 4-6 respectively, you'd notice the motion doesn't coincide with a swinging pivot point but more with a sliding or extending action. He starts the motion with his elbow behind him and through the 3 frames, the relative distance between the elbow and torso stays fairly consistent. He is forcefully pushing/shoving his forearm forward to cause the baton to extend. Much like extendable police batons.</p>
<p>In any gif of the action, I agree it looks as if he is thrusting in arm downward as if to push the baton out, but in frame 5 you supplied, I see what looks like the blur of the vanes not quite perpendicular to the shaft, on the outside. This could be just the blur of electricity. That could just be part of the post-production special effects.</p><p>Also, just from a design standpoint, consider the position of the caps used to hold the vanes. When it is collapsed, the caps are at the end of the closed baton, but when the baton is open, the caps are still at the end of the shaft. What part of the conductor vanes is moving outward to extend or retract, if the caps are still at the same location? The caps would have extended to the end of the vanes. OR the caps remained, there should be a channel in the vanes where the caps remained during extension.</p><p>This certainly has been quite a discussion point! LOL (I am thuroughly enjoying this!)</p><p>Does anyone have JJ Abrams' direct contact so we can just ask him?</p>
The baton is impervious to light sabers because it is made from kortosis.
Ah yes, edmonett! Cortosis, the special ore that is impervious to blaster and Lightsaber strikes. Good point, even if it is from the extended universe, and not official canon, it could find its way into canon much like the 501st!
<p>if you were to put some catches in there and use a slightly smaller pipe you could make it retractable/extendable</p><p></p><p><a rel="nofollow">[delete]</a></p>
Liaml11, I would be interested in seeing more what you have in mind for the catches and retraction mechanism. Even though, the consensus is the conductor vanes swing out (albeit extremely quickly), the retraction technique could be used for other creations.
<p>STEP 5 INSTRUCTION 14 NEEDS CORRECTING</p><p> INSTRUCTION 15 NEEDTURES A PIC</p>
<p>Hello, BevS9. I am not exactly sure about the confusion with Step 5 substep 14: &quot;Slide the 16&rdquo; length of 1 &frac12;&rdquo; pipe over the epoxy.&quot; I can only guess that you mean, &quot;Slide the 16&quot; length of 1 1/2&quot; pipe over the 18&quot; length of 1&quot; pipe with the epoxy.&quot; If you can elaborate, I would be happy to edit and clarify it. As for the picture for substep 15, that is these images.</p><p>Thank you for your interest!</p>
&quot;Slide the 16&rdquo; length of 1 &frac12;&rdquo; pipe over the epoxy.&quot; <br>the epoxy is the glue<br>slide the 16&quot; length of 11/2&quot; pipe over the glue is confusing.<br>what keeps the 1&quot; pipe from flopping in the 11/2&quot; pipe. that seems like a very loose fit
<p>Ah! I think I see what you mean. I will adjust the wording to hopefully make it more clear. I appreciate you pointing that out for me!</p><p>As for the fit, the 1&quot; fits perfectly inside the 1 1/2&quot; pipe. The epoxy/glue/contact cement makes it even tighter. I do recommend when picking out the PVC to make this, dry fit a couple pieces to see if they do indeed fit.</p>
<p>I don't like the bad puns.</p>
<p>WHAT?!?!? What bad puns? Could you, JoshH54, be referring to my Step titles?</p><p>I don't like bad puns either! (I LOVE THEM!!!)</p>
<p>I don't like the bad puns.</p>
<p>I don't like the bad puns.</p>
<p>It would be really cool to put blue LEDś to simulate the shock/plasma.</p>
That would be awesome looking, I agree. That is already in the plans for FORB 2.0. Blue LEDs along the conductor vanes, and red ones along the shaft instead of red paint.
<p>#LoyalToTheEmpire<br>@WeHaveCookies</p>

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