I found,an old bronze agricultural water tap used for crops in my Kibbutz in ISRAEL.In the 1950's.It was joined to some 2 inch iron pipes all rusted up.It took me a week to get it all cleaned up.Then I saw that I could make some thing (nice) with it.
Using my spare time it took me another couple of weeks to make what I thought would make a nice present for my 6 year old
grandson.This is how I made it.,,,
.MAY YOU ALL HAVE A GREAT DAY.If any one has trouble with this let me know.
MY web site is WWW.ART IN WOOD PLUS,com
Step 1: Tools and Materials That You Will Need.
A lathe(I have a metal lathe)
Soldering iron.(flux-solder )Elec' tape
Wire brush (better still)drill driven round wire brush.
Sanding paper(better still) drill driven round emery cloth ,120=240=360.
Chrome polish,like for motor bikes.
Hot glue gun.
Xacto knife, Hammer,metal chisel..
Newspaper.and paper white glue.
Materials. WOOD 200x200x40 mm,for the base.I used mahagony .
90x90x75 mm,for holding the bulb.hard wood.I used Indian Sissum
But a walnut will do.
75x75x50 mm, piece of teak wood for holding the solar panel.
80x80x55 mm any dark wood, this goes into the side hole of the "TAP"
and will hold the piece of teak.
20x20x25mm.for the switch.(This depends on the type of switch
and what type of houseing you will be using.)
40x40x25 mm for the Led lights.
BRONZE The tap.
Brass ring.(Show you later.)
Bronze side gear (or anything that can be used for the switch housing )
Will show a couple of pictures of spare switches that I made.
ELECTRIC COMPONENTS. Solar panel 400 Ma
2 x 1.5 volt rechargeable batteries holder.
Led's.( I used from a head touch,it had 7 leds,
so dismantled 2.(Quite enough..)
On/off switch.(push down type.)
Diode,( I used the inards (CHIP) from a garden solar light.
And of course electric wire.
The GLASS BULB. Felt ,,,,cloth (for under the base.)
A 3 inch piece of metal or plastic pipe that has a thread at one end that is the same thread as the tap
SPRAY PAINT.this is a new spray paint that is without colour. Like lacquer and dries in 20 min..
Step 2: The Bronze Parts.
The clean up of the tap,could be quite a job,BUT worth it. Normally it comes with old rusty pipes screwed into the TAP.
Try to seperate the pipe from the tap,DO NOT use a hammer. Put the pipe in a vice and turn the tap ANTI clock wise.
If need be, use a Rigid pipe (wrench).IF this doesn;t work ...Cut the pipe half inch from the tap
with a Hacksaw. REMOVE the on/ off part of the tap, this is also bronze and can be for the switch
mechanism.AFTER separating,Remove the blade of the hacksaw and insert only the blade
in the right direction,into the pipe/tap,(AS SHOW,). Using a vice to hold the tap,Cut the pipe though taking
care not to cut the bronze threads too much.NOW move the tap in the vice,so that the small piece of pipe is at the top,
Using a hammer and chisel hit the pipe in the direction inwards so as to separate the pipe threads, from the
bronze threads.DO this carefully,a little at a time..............You should have now a whole tap.
Now clean up the external tap, again using the wire brush,
This now needs use of the 60 120 emery papers,make sure there are no deep scratches,go to the finer papers.
Now use the (chrome) polish,IT SHOULD LOOK LIKE MINE.
USE a face mask as the dirt coming off is small and NOT good for the lungs,
Also wear protective glasses.
Step 4: The Brass Ring Switch.
The switch holder was an old part of one of our old machines a bit sharp so I used the steel wire brush to remove sharp edges..
Took the measurements of the bottom of the switch and made a hole in the wooden base leaving room for the tap to be turned a little.. .
I feel that this side gear will give some of you a problem,therefor I have included a couple of other choices.
. The section that was removed from the tap, can be used as follows,disemble the inards.remove the external "TOP"
cut the large base from the thinner tube keeping the treads and nut,then I used half of a "bullet" as the press down on the electric switch Next make a wooden piece that will go into the bullet BUT have a section that will go on top of the
red electric switch) as big as the the tread. SEE PICTURE . )
Step 5: THE WOODEN PARTS.
THE WOODEN PARTS. 1.The main base. I Had a very nice piece of Mahagony 850x200x40mm and so decided to make 4
bases each one 200x200x40 using a compass I drew the 4 rings and then cut with the jigsaw.
With a paper glue painted the wood added newspaper then again glue doing this 5 times then added another piece of wood untill
I had all 4 pieces joined together..put them on my table and placed a heavy piece of wood on top for 24 hours... to dry
The next day joined my metal plate and spindel to the wooden blocks and went to my lathe .All this is just for information...
As most of you will only be making one,base just join the 0ne base to the wooden section of the spindel. NOW we go to the lathe.
(I love working on.Make the sides compleatly smooth with 80 120 240 360 sanding paper.Then make a hole in the centre 20- to 30 mm
wide and 30mm deep,using the blade of the lathe enlarge the width of the hole,mine needed to be 58mm,It depends on the
thickness of your pipe.( I FORGOT to say,make a small chamfer on the top of the base)
Now make a hole 6mm wide in this same hole to the bottom of the base.( for the electrics)
Make another hole all the way through to the base for the switch, the size depends on the way you want to join the switch to the base
and where exactly you want to put the switch.
Turn the base over,and from the first hole to the second make a groove so that the electric cable can go from the switch to the main TAP..this will be hidden when you put the felt on the bottom. .
WOOD FOR THE BULB
This piece is 90x90x75 mm. I used Indian Sissum,If you can't find it, use any hard wood ie..Walnut or any thing that gives a nice shine
Again center the wood ,and put on the lathe,start by cutting the first 20 mm down to 59mm. this must NOT be smooth,it goes into
the top thread. Remove from lathe and turn round ,putting that end into the chuck.,turn and shape so as to get a nice form.This needs
to be50 mm. ending
with a straight 90 degree angle, make a small chamfer.Using all the emery papers and I used 500 1000 .after this I dampend the ,
wood, left for 10 min and then used the 1000, again.Leaving the piece on the lathe. Make a hole between 20to30mm wide and 12mm
deep.Enlarge the width to 55mm, make a hole 6 to 8 mm all the way through from the center for the electrics.
WOOD FOR THE LEDS
This piece is 45x45x35 mm(MY BULB IS 43 MM INTURNAL) Centre the wood and put on lathe I allowed 10 mm each end for holding
I made it 42 mm wide and 25 mm long, drilled a 6mm hole right though for the electrics and then smoothed just 1 side.
WOOD FOR THE SWITCH
I made a rod of hard wood 22 mm thick and 50 mm long ,put it in the chuck,and cut the first part down to 15mm thick
and 15mm long,measured 4mm more and cut the whole 19mm off. after I had smoothed down.
WOOD FOR SOLAR
This is in 2 part. 1 goes into the side hole and the other holds the solar panel.
Wood 1 ..80x80x70 mm put on lathe and turn till the size is 76mm thick. measure 15mm from end and cut down to 59mm .
(DO NOT ) clean this part ..it goes into the side hole. now chamfer10mm from this part and then staight,with a width of 75mm.
measure 40mm from the thinner end (59mm) and cut off straight...smooth with emery but not the end cut......
WOOD 2FOR THE SOLAR PANEL.
This is 85x100x20 mm put the solar panel on top and carefully mark round the panel using a very sharp knife )...
using a sharp chisel go around this mark 2mm in depth..Take away the wood inside of mark trying to be level..See pictures.
Also make a hole for the electrics, you may have to chisel a groove ,because the solar panels have some solder in 2 places.
Fit the solar panel in place it should be a good tight fit.(NOW REMOVE)
I AM VERY SORRY BUT THIS NEXT PART SHOULD HAVE BEEN IN STAGE 7
Now join with a good wood glue the wood parts together making sure that the center holes are together, put in a press or some weight on top for 24.hrs.At this time also join the small round wood to the bulb holder,also leave 24 h Now you can spray all the wood parts but not the bottom, let dry for 1 hour.
After this spray again,and leave. Spray all the external parts of bronze in 1 go leave also 1 hour then spray again and leave over night.
Put the solar panel and wires on the wooden block and join with a little hot glue,give 10min's to dry. enter into the side hole.
Put the leds in place and with the wires put the bulb wood into the top bronze with all of the electrics (OTHER THAN FOR SWITCH)
Make sure you have given enough wire. Carefully push all the elec's down into the bottom,then put the switch wires into the small hole.
THREAD the bronze tap onto the base. The 2 wires for the switch must be showing under the base,NOW you can put your switch
onto the top of base with the wires showing from (ITS)hole. Join the wires from switch to the other elec;s TEST all O.K.
Add felt with adhesative glue ... NOW put a little Hot glue around the bulb and put in place..
Step 6: THE ELECTRICS.
Other than electrics in the house,I don:t know what watts, ohms, resisters, and diods,are.
So I had to do all the electrics from looking at how the old garden solar led light was joined up.
Take it all apart, change the solar panel,add the new 1.5 batteries and new holder,change the switch,
and change the 1 old led to 2 with more power (1.2 volts each)and keep the circuit that has the diode.Put it all together,
and check that all works . Then I changed the led;s to the 5 from a head torch,they were still alight after
8 hours. The solar panel puts elec power into the batt. one needs the diode on the of the solar panel to stop power going back
to the solar.. The -- of the solar goes to the --of the battery. The of the solar goes to the diode or (chip) then to the switch
from the other side of the switch ,it goes to the leds, then back to the battery"s .. The main picture is of the old elec; other than
the solar panel and a test leds.
Step 7: The Bulb.
Six months ago I was trying to make an instuct' that was using normal light bulb for use as MICRO gardens and
thought that I could do the same but with much larger bulbs ie(. 1000 watt ) and cut the bulbs in a different way .
SO went to a big Super market and asked the manager to save me all his old Bulbs when he changed them.
He saved ALL his bulbs and gave them to me. thanks alot See the pic's.
I needed the bulb with out the filament and screw end,so had to cut off.An ordinary glass cutter didn't work.
so had to go to someone else. saw him do one and said thanks and paid him.then went to a shop and bought a mini, mini diamond disc cutter $25. and with my ARBORTECH mini grinder I cut the glass bulb in less than 30 seconds, have cut many more since.
BE VERY CAREFUL THE GLASS IS SHARP AND THE POWDER DEADLY .
wrap all old glass in a newspaper and dispose of with intelligence.
THIS IS THE LAST STAGE I am very sorry but it seems I put it in STAGE 5 and have no power left to write all again
MANY THANKS FOR ALL WHO HAVE READ TO HERE GOD BLESS.have a good day .> . . .