Picture of Steampunk Brass Goggles 101. The right way done wrong.
What follows is the 'right way' to make Steampunk goggles. I am showing off the basic method and not walking through the build of a finished set of goggles. When you get to the end of this instructable you will still have a bit of design work and construction to do. But you will have the skills to do them.

This is the method (more or less) employed by the magnificent Gogglerman in many of his designs. In some areas this method is even an improvement. I do not pretend that my finished product is anywhere near the same league as Gogglerman. The man is a true artist; a savant even in the way he solves design problems.

But where the master shows off his work he does not like to spend time explaining his process. Many who comment on Gogglerman's work complain (rather aggressively) that he does not give step by step instructions on how to make what he's showing. I intend, only, to fill that void.

This is my first instructable, so constructive criticism is, of course, welcome.

Keep in mind please, I am an artificer not an artist. The techniques I describe can be used with greater skill and creativity than I possess to create works of art. They are employed by myself only to solve a problem and the final product is often aesthetically inelegant. 
bianca2672 years ago
Hey, these are awesome. You should check out monsterslayer.com for copper or brass sheet metal. Not very expensive at all.

Excellent job! I was able to follow and understand the detailed instructions & pictures without any problem, and I have never made goggles.

I really like that you explained the merits and disadvantages of various techniques and materials used along the way.
ArtificerMade (author)  CatTrampoline3 years ago
I'm glad you got some value out of it.

I've made a companion video to demonstrate the brazing process. It's more of an illustration than instruction but it really shows how easy it is to do. Start to finish, all of 2 minutes to braze a joint.

gogglerman3 years ago
Connection method you suggested, more complex than mine. A lot of markup, more complex processing and more visible seam (I thought). Of course, it is more robust than mine. :)
In addition, you use copper, which has greater plasticity than brass. Methods of processing of these metals differ from each other. However, you have created detailed instructions that can be called a model in some sense. Thank you for sharing your work. I wish you luck in continuing your valuable projects.
ArtificerMade (author)  gogglerman3 years ago
The seam is visible because I am a hack.

I am certain that if you used that method, the finished seam would be invisible. I have seen it used with that result.

When annealed the Copper is soft like a lead sheet, but it work hardens up. Compare the properties of copper and brass at http://www.matweb.com and you see a broad overlap of their physical strength measurements. Once built, the process of polishing them will work harden the skin of the copper to a high degree of hardness.

Put it this way, I (220 lbs) can stand on these goggles without crushing the eye-cups.

I like copper because it's easier to get and a little easier to shape, but my method works just as well with brass stock or nickel-silver stock. Or gold or silver sheet for that matter. Cold-forming one of these metals is pretty much like any of the others.

I think the main difference is my use of hard solder.

I find it has a higher tolerance for sloppy work. Truly, if you craft a perfect joint so that the two metals meet each other perfectly well, soft solder like plumbers tin (or tin/lead, or 'silver-bearing soft solder) will create a joint that is as strong as the base metals being joined. But if there are any gaps then the strength of the joint is reduced to the strength of the solder, and tin or lead is not terribly strong.

With hard solder, gaps are filled with a copper-silver allow that is as hard as any other part of the piece.

I think I will make a video of the hard soldering process. People assume that it must be hard to do because it takes more heat. But really, the torch does all the work of providing that extra heat. :-)