I was happy to because there were some improvements I wanted to incorporate in a new design.
One major upgrade was the use of the microprocessor cooling towers, they are far more efficient than the brass ones on the Chillanator.
Step 1: The Frame
Also using a jig of some kind would help, I did mine free-hand and it's slightly out of square.
After soldering I reheated it to get the colors to run in the copper.
Step 2: The Chip Hookup
I discovered the temperature transfer was about 3 degrees better with a microprocessor heat sink paste over JB Weld.
To hold the Peltier chip in place I used the paste on the flat and JB Weld around the edges.
The tin cup was improved by using aluminum.
Step 3: Gotta Have a Cup Holder
It needed to look "cool"
Heat transfer needed to be kept low.
Getting your drink out should be very easy.
The cup holder is rolled and glued craft paper with packing foam inside, painted with spray paint.
I made it 3/4 of a pop can height so grabbing the top is easy, yet most of the can is insulated.
Step 4: Removing Heat
This allows for heat transfer from both the very bottom and the lower edge, the bent up edge doubles the metal to metal contact area.
Step 5: Let's Get Real
IF you start with a cold beverage, and you don't handle it much, it will keep it quite cool, but it's safe to figure you'll be using about 120 watts of electricity the whole time it's on.
The total cost was less than 20.00 dollars, if you are like me and like to drink your drinks slowly you may like always reaching over for a cold one.
Step 6: Wiring and Power Supply
I strongly recommend staying very close to the rated voltage.
The small wall wart transformers are to small for this project they will over heat or die or both.
When you first run your chiller keep a clove eye on the temp of the power supply.