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Step 4Head Loop Assembly
The Head Loop Assembly connects the two sides together: the Ear Cup and Template Pad assemblies. It is designed so both assemblies rotate around their axis.
First, ream out both copper T-fittings with a rat tail file. The T-fittings neck down in the middle. You want the inside diameter to be one size all the way through.
From 0.032" thick Brass Flat Strip, cut out four L-shaped brackets. The brackets should slide all the way through the T-fitting. From the photos, you can see the spring steel head loops are sandwiched in between these brass brackets. Slide the brackets into the T-fittings, place the head loops for reference and mark and punch the holes in the L-shaped brackets. While the brackets are in the T-fitting, rotate the T-Fitting about 145 deg. This angle sets the tension on the head loop. Mark the position, then sweat solder the L-shaped brackets into the T-fitting.
Cut two lengths of 1/4" OD brass tube, one 1 1/2" long, the other 1" long. The latter is for the Temple Pad. File down the brass thread inserts so that they'll fit inside the brass tubes about half way. Insert the other sides of the brass tubes into the T-fittings. Sweat solder these into place.
Fabricate four caps for the T-fittings. These are made from 1/4" brass end caps. As the photo shows, you'll need to cut a section out of the caps to clear the nuts. These are quite small so I soldered the caps to copper tubing before using a Dremel to cut out the sections. We'll call this completed piece a T-Assembly.
Cut two strips of leather about 9 3/4" x 1 1/8". Sew these lengthwise, leaving enough space to slip in the spring steel head loops. Use 2-56 1/4" long brass machine screws and nuts to assemble everything together. You'll notice you'll need to cut down the top screws so that you can slip the leather casing over them.
First, ream out both copper T-fittings with a rat tail file. The T-fittings neck down in the middle. You want the inside diameter to be one size all the way through.
From 0.032" thick Brass Flat Strip, cut out four L-shaped brackets. The brackets should slide all the way through the T-fitting. From the photos, you can see the spring steel head loops are sandwiched in between these brass brackets. Slide the brackets into the T-fittings, place the head loops for reference and mark and punch the holes in the L-shaped brackets. While the brackets are in the T-fitting, rotate the T-Fitting about 145 deg. This angle sets the tension on the head loop. Mark the position, then sweat solder the L-shaped brackets into the T-fitting.
Cut two lengths of 1/4" OD brass tube, one 1 1/2" long, the other 1" long. The latter is for the Temple Pad. File down the brass thread inserts so that they'll fit inside the brass tubes about half way. Insert the other sides of the brass tubes into the T-fittings. Sweat solder these into place.
Fabricate four caps for the T-fittings. These are made from 1/4" brass end caps. As the photo shows, you'll need to cut a section out of the caps to clear the nuts. These are quite small so I soldered the caps to copper tubing before using a Dremel to cut out the sections. We'll call this completed piece a T-Assembly.
Cut two strips of leather about 9 3/4" x 1 1/8". Sew these lengthwise, leaving enough space to slip in the spring steel head loops. Use 2-56 1/4" long brass machine screws and nuts to assemble everything together. You'll notice you'll need to cut down the top screws so that you can slip the leather casing over them.
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