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Step 5Temple Pad Assembly
I apologize for the lack of photos for this Step. I went through two designs before finally settling on the third. In a rush to get it right, I neglected to photograph the fabrication.
First cut out the overall Temple Pad from 0.032" thick brass flat strip. Cut a piece about 2 1/2" x 1 1/8" in size. Using tin snips, trim to a kidney shape. Shape the Temple Pad so it matches the curve of your temple. File, sand and finish the part.
(Optional step to reduce weight) Using a sheet metal hand punch, punch 3/16" holes into the Temple Pad.
Next, fabricate some brackets for the Temple Pad. Cut out two 1/2" x 3/4" rectangular pieces from the 0.0256 brass sheet. Drill a 1/16" and 1/8" holes, one to hold an axle the other to hold a small piece of copper wire. The copper wire limits the pivot travel of the Temple Pad. Bend the brackets 90 degrees to an L shape.
Now you're ready to fabricate the axial rod which consists of an 8-32 1 1/2" long brass machine screw with the head hack sawed off. Take an 8-32 acorn nut and flatten then drill out the top like you did in Step 2. Tap the acorn nut so the threads run all the way through. Cut a 1/2" long piece of brass 1/8" tubing. File a notch across the flat side of the acorn nut and solder the short piece of tubing to the acorn nut. The tubing should have a slight overhang to the nut. The overhang acts as a bearing to the brackets made above.
You are now ready to finish off the Temple Pad assembly. Slip the brackets onto the short 1/8" brass tubing then place it on the Temple Pad. Makes sure everything is centered then sweat solder the brackets in place. After the parts have cooled, the axial rod should now pivot on the temple pad. Take a short piece of copper wire and slide them through the holes and solder them into place. Cut off the excess and file down flat. Lastly, bolt a 2-56 3/4" long brass machine screw and nut through the 1/8" brass tube. Cut out a piece of black cloth and faux sheepskin in the shape of the Temple Pad and glue these to the inside surface.
First cut out the overall Temple Pad from 0.032" thick brass flat strip. Cut a piece about 2 1/2" x 1 1/8" in size. Using tin snips, trim to a kidney shape. Shape the Temple Pad so it matches the curve of your temple. File, sand and finish the part.
(Optional step to reduce weight) Using a sheet metal hand punch, punch 3/16" holes into the Temple Pad.
Next, fabricate some brackets for the Temple Pad. Cut out two 1/2" x 3/4" rectangular pieces from the 0.0256 brass sheet. Drill a 1/16" and 1/8" holes, one to hold an axle the other to hold a small piece of copper wire. The copper wire limits the pivot travel of the Temple Pad. Bend the brackets 90 degrees to an L shape.
Now you're ready to fabricate the axial rod which consists of an 8-32 1 1/2" long brass machine screw with the head hack sawed off. Take an 8-32 acorn nut and flatten then drill out the top like you did in Step 2. Tap the acorn nut so the threads run all the way through. Cut a 1/2" long piece of brass 1/8" tubing. File a notch across the flat side of the acorn nut and solder the short piece of tubing to the acorn nut. The tubing should have a slight overhang to the nut. The overhang acts as a bearing to the brackets made above.
You are now ready to finish off the Temple Pad assembly. Slip the brackets onto the short 1/8" brass tubing then place it on the Temple Pad. Makes sure everything is centered then sweat solder the brackets in place. After the parts have cooled, the axial rod should now pivot on the temple pad. Take a short piece of copper wire and slide them through the holes and solder them into place. Cut off the excess and file down flat. Lastly, bolt a 2-56 3/4" long brass machine screw and nut through the 1/8" brass tube. Cut out a piece of black cloth and faux sheepskin in the shape of the Temple Pad and glue these to the inside surface.
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