Today I will present you my newest Steampunk-Design Workshop creation.
Here you can read something about how i got the idea to built my first Steampunk Laptop.
Because my pictures are soo poor...
I deside to take a video in HD, you will enjoy it!!!
Depend on the diversity of the basic Laptops you get in this world I can show you only an overview of the single steps and the trouble you get with single parts…
For my Steampunk Laptop I use my first Laptop which still works well but is now too slow for newest applications.
It still works well for Videos, Music and Internet.
My model is the Toshiba Satellite 1100.
- Toshiba Satellite 1100
- Big Wooden Gingerbread Box
- Profiled Timber
- Old Brass Car Horns
- Copper T-Pipe
- Brass Caps
- Knobs in different sizes
- Red Velvet
- Brass E10 Bulb base
- Wood Stain
- Wood Wax
- Hinge Joints for Box lid and Keyboard
- Enough Time
Step 1: Disassembly of the Laptop
Also take some pictures of the metal shield.
Some parts don’t work when they are not connected over the metal shield to ground.
For example the touch pad there is a Brass plate on the lower side.
I don’t connect it to shield/ground and the touchpad don’t work.
After few hours I recognise that there was a small metal sheet mounted which I miss I supersede it by a cable.
Step 2: Monitor Frame
I decide to build a wooden frame out of profiled timber.
The profile I got was 2.3mm wide.
Depend on the different gap I remove on the outer side the 1mm and 6mm.
The result is that the profile in the corner doesn’t get correct together. There is an interrupt in the profile. I smooth it a little with sandpaper.
After painting with black wood stain you don’t see this fault.
I mount the Monitor with the original metal frame on the wooden frame I use very short wood screws for this.
Because the wooden frame has exact the measurement of the box lid I am able to clamp it into it without any glue and screws…
Step 3: Keyboard and Status LED Board
I decide to use leverage force of the lid to push up the Keyboard.
I don’t have enough space for an idler pulley and ropes.
After some hours I got the idea to use a small board which is connected to the lid and pulled out when you open the box to lift up the keyboard too.
As a hinge i use chime parts from the of a wall clock.
I try it but it doesn’t work well because it was too weak in the hinge. When you use the keyboard it starts to teeter under the pressure.
I use two screws in the side of the box to absorb this pressure.
I also recognise that I can control the way if it moves in/out and the angle of the end position.
In the second picture you see the sliding block to lift the keyboard. Later I put a brass pipe on because the board flip too fast down and get in contact wit the E10 sockets with the LED’s in.
Step 4: Speaker
I got these nice brass horns some month ago from Ebay. After I see them on Ebay I know that I build speaker with them.
The only challenge was to get small speaker.
After I got the speaker out of the laptop and I recognise that they are oval it was clear that I am able to use a T- copper part out of the hardware store.
I use a 1” T-Pipe and 1” Brass Caps.
I also buy a cabinet door hinge.
The assembling is very easy I put the speaker into the tube and adjust the middle of the speaker into the outlet and mark the position of the cable.
Slide it out and drill a small hole for the cable.
Then I solder the brass horn to the T-Pipe.
I polish it and put the speaker in again, I fix it with hot glue in the right position.
Then I drill a hole in the centre of the brass cap.
Above I use the hinge with the pin for the lower cap I use a short screw which fall down in the hole of the hinge when you meet the centre.
Step 5: Mousepad and Keyboard frame
After I glued it together I use wood stain and wax for the right look.
Step 6: Mainboard
For the mounting of the Main board in the wooden box I use the original mounting leg. I cut it out of the plastic case and glued them in place.
I need the original mountings the get the right height and the stability inside the box.
Step 7: Wires
The pins are so close together and so small I that I solder them under a magnifying glass. I need 3 hours and 5 day to solder them. After some minutes you will start to jitter and the result is that you solder 2-3 pins together.
So take time if you do something like this.
Step 8: Status LED's
The nice status LED’s in the brass E10 bulb sockets are very nice but the replacement of the SMD Led’s though cables is terrible.
I buy a 10 piece pack of cheap 25Watt bulbs with brass socket and remove the bulb and the glass in the socket.
How you get it out I explain in another Instructables some month ago.
Then I stick small magnifying glasses in the socket which I get out of a disposable camera (lens) which I use in this Instructables.
I use normal low current LED's in different colours through the lens it seems that the complete brass tube is glowing inside.
Step 9: Final Handles and pictures
To cover the CD-Rom slot outside and the card slot on the right side I saw some nice formed wooden plates which I colour with brass paint.
I also mount handles for an easy transport.
At least I glue a modified Compass, Clock and Thermometer on the Status Panel.
Feel free to ask if you need some special information’s or some helpful tips…
Admiral Aaron Ravensdale
Owner of the Steampunk-Design Workshop