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Steampunk Necktie Corset Dress

Step 5Iron, fit and put it together

Iron, fit and put it together
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10.  Fit your corset. Now is the time to gauge whether your corset needs adjusting further. This is difficult to do by oneself so if you can, find a partner. You could also do this on a dummy, but sewing dummies aren't all squishy like the human body. Squish factor is an important aspect of corset fitting. Ideally, you want to turn the shell so the seams and ugly threads are facing out (*the opposite of my pic). Then pull tight around the back. If you have slack anywhere, pin it. If you need to mark things, mark them. Keep in mind your boning will help take up a smidgen of slack, too.
All pinned up? Then one little bit at a time, go back to your machine and stitch the seams a bit smaller until you have the right fit. This can be time consuming, but there will be no more adjusting (save lacing) from this point on.  If your corset is too big, no amount of lacing will hold it up--here's where it's handy to err on the side of smaller for once.  Got it perfect? Great! Trim excess away from the seams.

11.  Repeat with lining, again.  Here's where it can get tricky.  You now have to implement all the fitting changes you made to your outer garment on your lining.  An easy way to to this (especially if your adjustments are relatively minor) is lay the adjusted layer on top of the lining and begin pinching and pinning little bits at a time until the seams for both pieces line up. 

12.  Iron your seams flat.  That's right, it's back to our friends the iron and ironing board. I hate ironing, but it's so important.  You can choose to iron your seams open or to iron them all towards one direction.  For example, iron all seams toward the lacing side as I did.  Anytime you're ironing a sewing project, remember that it is possible to overdo it and warp your weft, so to speak. 

13.  Pin the top and bottom.  With right sides together, begin pinning all along the top and bottom.  This is to ensure that your seams line up and that both halves are the same size.  This will also keep you from shifting the lining and outer layer and making things wonky when you stitch the halves together.

14.  Sew the front to the back--Run a quick straight stitch along each side.

15.  Remove pins, turn inside out, and press. 


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Author:mercifulmaenad