This Instructable will show you how to make a quick, easy and inexpensive steampunk USB cable for your retrofitted, retro-historical steampunk or dieselpunk devices.
Note: This Instructable was inspired in part by the beautiful Steampunk Mouse, posted by Miss Betsy. But this Steampunk USB cable doesn't require as many tools, or as much skill as is required to recreate Miss Betsy's steampunk cable. I also borrowed a few ideas from an Instructable on Cloth Covered Banana Cables.
Materials:
• Bootlace
• USB Cable
• “F” type quick connect video adaptor
• Altoids tin
• Glue (Crazy or Gorilla)
• Heat shrinkable wire wrap (or brass eyelets)
• Gold or bronze metallic paint
• Female-to-female "F" type connector (optional)
Tools:
• Soldering iron & solder
• Exacto blade (or razor blade)
• Dremel (or similar rotary tool)
• Pliers
• Wire cutter
• Paint brush
• Lighter
• Clamp or vice
Remove these ads by
Signing UpStep 1: Prepare the USB Cable
With your Exacto or razor blade, make an incision around the cable, at the base of the plug, to remove the plastic tubing, being ever so careful to not cut through to the wires. Then carefully slice the tubing length-wise, (kind of like you were skinning a snake;-) Be carefully not to damage the wire shielding, as this will make it very difficult to pass through the lace.













































Visit Our Store »
Go Pro Today »




http://www.flickr.com/photos/asbestos_pix/3627863244/
Was that metal functional or decorative? Perhaps coding?
Good work!
But of course the possibilities are limitless;-)
1, You can have any length you like, I went upto 4m (12feetish).
2, It's availlable in a very wide range of colours.
3, It's only availlable in a few widths so the thickness of cable needs to be appropriate.
You just need to pull the (usually) white strands out of the middle and slide your cable in.
but..
why did you unsheathe the original cable? seems to me that it was completely unnecessary and compromises the integrity of the shielded pair cable.
It looks like you are trying to emulate corded asbestos insulation, and you do a good job of that. But unsheathing the cable runs risk of damaging the actual conducting wires and the shielding around them. and once everything is hidden in the boot lace sleeve? well.. whats the difference? in fact.. with the outer cable sheathing intact, it should actually be able to insert it through the boot lace.
my concerns are born from my former life as a industrial automations technician. low voltage data wires, like say a USB cord. you have your data wires, power wires, and a elctromagnetic shield tied to a grounded drain wire.. as in the shiled would be connected to the ground on one end and open on the other.. a connected circle could cause a hum after all.
as long as your +5 and 0v are good, and your D+ and D- are good, there should be no problems, and considering the length of the cable in question there should not be a problem as long as the foil shielding is at least connected, a crack in it is allowable. But the outer shield in a data wire is to protect the low voltage wires from external Electromagnetic interference like say 50mgz hum from120,240, or 480v AC voltage. so best practice is to keep the shielding and casing intact to closest allowable termination point for the wire and ground drain the terminated end.
On such a short run of wire, and a digital source of data? this is not going to be an issue what so ever, my concern is based on personal training on best work processes.
I make beer for a living now though, so go on with yer bad self