Some time ago I stumbled (again) over some stereo pictures. This time I had to build my own simple rig. I am not going in depth of the principles of stereo or 3D photography; there are many and very detailed web pages about this subject. I rather show a solution that practically everyone can build by her(him)self (At least with the help of a good friend).
In the last step you find a few pictures for 'cross-eyed' and 'parallel' viewing.
A little guide to 3D viewing you find HERE
In the last step you find a few pictures for 'cross-eyed' and 'parallel' viewing.
A little guide to 3D viewing you find HERE
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Question was, how do I move my camera 2.5" or ~6.5cm in either direction. Somehow it has to slide to the left and right. Alright, you need a 'track' and you need a carrier for the camera.
I sifted through all the stuff in my basement and found this steel track, maybe once used for a sliding door. Also a nice piece of hardwood where a cutoff piece of this track would ride on.
I sifted through all the stuff in my basement and found this steel track, maybe once used for a sliding door. Also a nice piece of hardwood where a cutoff piece of this track would ride on.
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http://www.flickr.com/photos/tinker_it/3922690548/
Our project was based on a camera in a Nokia N900, and I wrote some software to put the stereoscopic images in the right place on the phone's screen so a Viewmaster could view them immediately after you'd taken them.
The video output on the phone was also wired into an LCD projector to throw read/cyan anaglyphic 3D images you could see with colored specs.
There's more background on the project in general here...
http://tinkerlondon.com/now/2009/09/15/rewind-rethinking-old-school-devices-using-the-nokia-n900/
Cefn
http://cefn.com
I do not doubt that you can make hand held stereo pairs but I would like to make pictures of my projects and despite halfway decent lighting the exposure is often only 1/30 and hand held won't do then.
As I have mentioned in some other comment, my reason to make this track was taking pictures of my projects with exposures of 1/60 and less.
I opened the pictures in stereoscopic player from www.3dtv.at and viewed them on my iZ3D monitor, they look great !
Some of them needed vertically adjusting as they weren't aligned properly and after adjusting the convergence point they looked really good.
Awesome idea for making them, never really thought about making any myself, just enjoyed looking at them :)
Bob
If I remember right, you can actually work out the best spacing by simply dividing the distance to the subject by thirty. So a subject thirty feet away would work best with a one foot spacing between the cameras.
Nice photos though! Using one camera for this kind of thing is always difficult and you've taken some great shots.
I do like the idea that you've brought the lens distance closer together to better mimic the natural seperation of the eyes.
Just as unfortunately convenional methods of 3D projection, polarized or color seperation, cause me severe headaches!
I wanted to take pics of my other projects which often require exposures of 1/60 and less.
the second set for parallel viewing has the right pic on the right side and left pic on the left side.
vince
for me to view them, they need to be relatively small on the screen and i need to remove my glasses (i'm near sighted) and get close to the screen and cross my eyes. can't explain it any more than that.
I managed in both views but it is a bit confusing. Anyway for those who want to try: If you look at the middle and left left pictures you see it in parallel view, the middle and right pair is for cross-eyed view.