I've wanted a Ruger 10 22 for a while because of all the aftermarket parts and customization, but I already have two perfectly good .22s and can't justify the expense. Unfortunately for my Stevens, the only aftermarket part is more magazines. So, I've been wanting to do something to the gun, and I've seen the survival shotgun out there with the hollow stock being utilized and figured I can do something similar. I found the stock to be hollow and accessible by the removal of just two screws. One sling and a survival kit later, I now present to you the Stevens Model 62 survival .22. 

*This can be done with any .22 that gives you access to a hollow stock and fitted with a sling. On this particular gun, it did require one permanent modification to the stock. It is cosmetic, not functional, and really isn't a big deal. 

The purpose of this gun is to be a bugout gun. It's designed for sustaining a trip into the woods for several weeks. The idea is less about survival and rescue and more about getting food while you get out of town. It is heavy on obtaining meat and cooking it, while light on cutting tools, shelter, and water. It has the capabilities of all, but it is mainly for food. The assumption of this rifle is that I can grab my main pack which is heavy on shelter, cutting tools, and water, but light on obtaining food. The two are designed to compliment and augment each other, but, if I can only grab the bag or the rifle, I would have a little of everything. This gun has 200 rounds of .22 ammunition, which could easily last one person two months with three to four shots a day. The scope is very well sighted in and the rifle should not need to be cleaned during that time. 

Step 1: Installing the Sling Mounts (part I)

The first step is to disassemble the rifle. You will have to do this to install the sling, and it just makes it easier to work with later. All you need is the composite stock, set aside the rest of the gun for later. If you need help taking apart the gun, there are YouTube videos out there.  

For this first step, you'll need a washer. The inner hole needs to be big enough to thread paracord through. As you have your stock, look in the top of the fore end. 

Cut/grind the washer so that it will fit into the fore end, where you want your sling to be, flush against the bottom. If your washer fits, you're good. Pull out the washer and set it aside. 

Flip over the stock and drill a hole from the outside in. This is important so that the drilled hole will be in the center. Again, the hole needs to be big enough to pull paracord through. Remember that washer? Glue that to the inside of the stock, just above the hole you drilled. Make sure they line up and are the same size. Glue the washer inside with your preferred adhesive. Wait several minutes for the glue to dry before proceeding. 
<p>I have a Henry .177 under lever repeater and the ammo is very high muzzle velocity and smaller than .22LR.</p><p>I am going to have to carve or 3d print a plastic stock to store ammo as this long gun has a wooden stock.</p>
<p>If you send me some related entire blueprint, i may send you some parts you need as repayment.</p>
nicely done. The only thing I would suggest is some sort of container(s) .. perhaps really tiny ziploc style bags to put batches of ammo in .. 10 rounds at a time if you can find the really tiny bags. <br>1) help to reduce the ammo rattling around in the stock <br>2) grab a baggie .. you have a full reload of ammo (if that is a 10 shot magazine) without having to count out bullets <br>3) makes it easier to do a quick count of what ammo you have left after you start using it <br>4) protects the ammo in case moisture gets into the stock accidentally <br>
Thanks for the input. No joke, I had the exact same idea about using bags. I had a 1-quart Ziploc I put all the ammo in, and the problem was that it wouldn't fit into that narrow space. When filled with ammo, the ammo conforms to the inner space. Otherwise there is wasted space in an otherwise tiny place to begin with. To repackage all the ammo would mean I had less ammunition. <br> <br>But when you said &quot;tiny ziploc,&quot; that got me thinking, I do have several of those tiny bags you mentioned. The solution I came up with was to fill the smaller space at the bottom loosely with unziplocked .22s and then had two smaller bags filled. After that I repacked everything as before, this time it's very tight. Absolutely nothing rattles inside. Now I have about 150 rounds inside some extra protection and 50 rounds still loose (the other 50 wouldn't fit while repackaged). <br> <br>Anyway, thanks for the reply. I believe the gun is for the better.
<p>I just made this order e-bay: </p><p><strong>Small Size ZIPLOCK BAGS - 500 CLEAR Baggies</strong><strong><br>ZIPPIT RELOC</strong><strong> - POLY <br>BAGS 2Mil </strong><strong><br>ASSORTMENT OF 5 SIZES <br>100 OF EACH SIZE</strong><strong> &gt; 1-1/2&quot;x1-1/2&quot;</strong><strong><strong> -</strong> 1-1/2&quot;x2&quot; </strong><strong>-</strong><strong>2&quot;x2&quot; </strong><strong><strong>- </strong>2&quot;x3&quot; </strong><strong>-</strong><strong> 2&quot;x4&quot; </strong></p><p><strong>I will be using them to pack fire starting materials (char cloth; magnesium shaving; sawdust; petroleum jelly coated cotton balls; etc), thus not having open larger bags and having loss due to spillage. Also package salt, pepper, seasoning herbs in the amounts needed to prepare each meal separately. I will be bagging up 22lr shells in 10 counts and 17 hmr rounds in 12 count bags; each baggy-one magazine load. <br></strong></p>
glad I could help. <br> <br>Now all we need to do is engineer a release system for that buttplate so you don't need to mess around with unscrewing it to get at your supplies :)
Or even find some flathead screws......esp. if they the large slot ones you can use keys, a nickel, knifeblade, or whatever to open it with. Thumbscrews would also work, but would make it uncomfortable to fire from the shoulder.
<p>If you use a center fire rifle or a shotgun, then you could buy a limb saver slip on recoil pad. It ,of coarse , could be done with a 22, but it would be useless. </p><p>P. S. Sorry about the late reply.</p>
My friend has the exact same gun.
I would recommend replacing the butt-stock screws with nylon flat head screws of the same thread pitch and length, possibly one of those that have slots that fit a quarter or a nickel real well. You can then place a full multi-tool inside the stock, and you'll most likely always have some change on you, and if you worry that you won't, you could tape one to the stock somewhere under the paracord. Savvy? Let me know what you think.
I like it. This could be a very nice addition. Thank you.
I love it. The only thing I'd add or change is a flint and striker. Matches can be a pain.
I can agree with this. I just don't have a good flint striker right now. So, I'll stick with the really cheap matches till then. Thanks for the feedback.
22's are rim fire and i have handled the rounds for years but putting loose rounds or even bagged rounds in the stock of the riffle seams like a risk on accidnetal detonation in the stock.. Not that it won't work just fine for many of ppls but though i belive it should at the very least be noted... and yes you half to throw the round fairly hard on concrete before it detonates.. but the jostling of a riffle but in a wilderness situations assuming your are in a acctuial bos(bugg out secenario) then the opperatior is in a stressed situation, drops and slips can occure
This is definitely something to be noted, I agree. Perhaps the inside of the stock could be lined with a shock-absorbent material. At the same time, I do think the likelihood of an accidental discharge is about the same as dropping any box of ammunition, or dropping a shotgun with sidesaddled ammunition stored on the outside of the stock, though that would be even more dangerous than a .22. <br>

About This Instructable




More by andyup1:Self cooling aquarium stand Stevens Model 62 .22 bugout gun Oh look, it's another survival kit. 
Add instructable to: