Although I had never actually kayaked before, one day I decided to make a stitch and glue kayak. For a non-kayaker I'm not sure why, but it had to do with a rowing class I had taken once, and I wanted to get out on the water on my own boat. Also, building a rowing shell seemed difficult, better to start with a kayak.

For those of you who don't know, stitch and glue is a well established method of building all kinds of boats. It involves cutting plywood into the right shapes, stitching the shapes together with wire, and then permanently gluing the whole thing up. A quick web search will yield loads of info about it.

There are some really nice kayak building kits out there, and you will definitely get better results than I did with a kit, but I'm pretty happy with how my kayak turned out. Also the kits can be a little pricey and I am going cheap. These online sites also sell plans which are much cheaper than the kits: Chesapeake Light Craft, Pygmy Boats, One Ocean Kayaks, and Shearwater Boats.

There's a few free kayak plans on the internet. There's one called the Guillemot and there may be some here, here, and here, but I chose the Sqeedunk C-16 because it looks a little easier to assemble. Now these aren't exactly plans, they're really just points you mark out on the plywood, then play a interesting game of connect the dots.

Another option for the true DIY'er is to design your own kayak using FreeShip, DelftShip, or your favorite 3D CAD software. Just be sure it is capable of unfolding curved surfaces, so you can take the curved panels you design and flatten them out for the plywood. A word of warning: CAD software typically has a steep learning curve. You may end up spending a lot of time working at the computer.

For materials, you will need some thin plywood. Everyone in the kayak biz will tell you to use okoume marine grade plywood, and they are right. However, since I'm going cheap and I just want a recreational kayak I can play around in rather than a serious sea kayak, I bought two nice looking lauan 4'x8' pieces at Home Depot. They are sometimes called door skin and are about 1/8 in. thick. Here's a tip, use a flashlight to shine light thru the plywood and look for gaps or voids in the middle. Voids are bad.

To start off with I bought, 30 ft of 6 oz. fiberglass cloth, a gallon of epoxy resin and half gallon of hardener from this online site. I also bought several feet of solid copper wire at the hardware store. It was red and white 20 gauge wire for antennas I think. Make sure it's solid, stranded wire will not work.

This was a really long project, it took me around 8 months, but there were weeks that I didn't get any work done. If working on it full time, it could be done in less than a month.

For tools, I used a coping saw and key hole saw to cut the plywood although some people recommend the japanese style pull saws. A power circular sander is a must. I used many a 60 grit sanding disc. You will also need a seemingly endless supply of sand paper, disposable brushes, and latex gloves. Other tools: rasp, carpenters square, drill, utility knife, safety glasses, pliers, etc.

Step 1: Scarf the sheets

"Aaarrgh, scarf the sheets, ye scallywag" sounds like a cryptic phrase a pirate would say, but it's apparently a method of attaching two pieces of plywood together. The idea here is to sand the ends of the boards down to a thin blade-like edge, then glue it flat onto another blade-like edge. If done well this gives the illusion of one continuous grain of wood running from one 4x8 ft. sheet to the other.

The boat I chose to build is a 16 footer, but that's way more boat than I need and I don't want to store a 16 foot boat. Also it would require attaching three 4x8 ft. pieces of plywood together.  I decided to shrink the boat down to a more manageable size, but more on that later. Shrinking allowed me to attach just two plywood sheets together.

To create the edge, I took a 2x4 board, and placed a scrap piece of plywood on top of it. Then I placed one sheet pretty side up on to the stack, and the other sheet pretty side down. This way the pretty side doesn't get damaged during the scraping and sanding. The boards are offset by 2 inches then I placed blue tape 2 inches from the edge of the top sheet to let me know that I should not cut into that part. I used a C clamp to keep the stack from moving. Then rasp and sand it down to a nice smooth slope.

I kept as much saw dust as possible to thicken the epoxy later in the build. The thickened epoxy is useful for squishing into the corners for a stronger joint.

Glue it together. I used water resistant wood glue because I was waiting for the epoxy to arrive, but I regret it. Using epoxy will blend in better with the later epoxy coatings. I swept the floor and laid down some plastic wrap to avoid gluing the sheets to the ground. I then placed the bottom sheet down and applied glue. Next came the top sheet followed by another layer of plastic wrap. Finally I topped it all off with scrap plywood and weights to make a tight bond. Let it dry for a day and you should have one long 4x16ish sheet of plywood.


<p>Hi, I'm building this kayak right now, full size tho, as I'm an architect i drew the pieces in autocad and converted the tables to metrical system, if anyone wants it here it is. I'm making the fully decked version, so that's the one on the plans.</p><p><a href="https://www.dropbox.com/s/p5yrnmihs16uhil/Cormorant%2016%20-%20Stich%20and%20Glue%2C%20with%20deck%20version.zip?dl=0" rel="nofollow">https://www.dropbox.com/s/p5yrnmihs16uhil/Cormoran...</a></p>
<p>Wow, that's great! Good luck with your project. Post some photos online if you can, better yet, make an instructable.</p>
One more question, how did you read the plans on the website. I want to build a 13-14 foot but I am not sure how to read the plans or how to shorten it without &quot;messing up&quot; the middle of the boat.
I kept the length between 60&quot; and 108&quot; the same and shrank the ends. Since most the stations are about 12&quot; apart I reduced it to 10&quot; that's about 83%. So for the stations that aren't 12&quot; I just multiplied it by .83. I then rewrote the tables with the modified stations, and started sketching it out on cardboard. It's not a perfectly proportional change but I took the risk and ended up doing a little trimming of the plywood during the stitch part. I hope that helps.
Also, since the hull bottom is significantly shorter than other panels, I think I made the distance between station 48 and 60 11&quot;, the distance between 96 and 108 11&quot; and ones in the middle 12&quot;
How many gallons of epoxy did you use? It seems like you would need a ton of it in fiberglassing alone.<br>
Good question. I bought a 1.5 gallon set, then towards the end of the build I bought another one, but I only used about half of it. So I think I used about 2 1/4 gal. but I also wasted epoxy by making mistakes and occasionally preparing too much. Someone more experienced in epoxy and fiberglassing could make it using a lot less epoxy.
Tres bien! Just a quick question, how did you cut the cockpit and how much did it cost?
Thanks! I drew the cockpit outline using a couple different sized buckets and a straight edge, then cut it out with a keyhole saw. To get the initial hole I probably used a dremel or drill. I can't remember. I didn't keep very good track of the cost, but it was probably around $300 - $400. The epoxy and fiberglass cloth were the most expensive parts.
Thanks, might be a while before I can afford that =[
You can save a ton of money if you get 2in fiberglass tape instead of cloth.&nbsp; The added strength of the cloth isn't needed if you put a second layer of the doorskin where your weight sits.&nbsp; I usually do 2 layers of ply under my bum with the seat fiberglassed to the the sidwalls.<br> <br> &nbsp; You will still need to coat everything in the epoxy to properly seal it.<br>
<p>Send me a mail document with drawings please !!!</p><p>I can not download !!!!!!!!</p><p>zazelenchuk.d.w@gmail.com</p>
<p>Tempe Town Lake at Mill Ave bridge</p>
<p>Long Toe - How is the kayak holding up? I have a friend that is working with Venture Scouts and wants to have them make S&amp;G kayaks. He looked at the S&amp;G Guillimot that is similar to your kayak. I see you are in Tempe (or were when you made your kayak). I am in Maricopa. Is there any chance we could see your kayak?</p>
<p>Hi, Unfortunately I don't take it out very often but it's holding up pretty well. Building a kayak is a pretty awesome experience and very rewarding. I highly recommend it. If you'd like to see it we could probably arrange that.</p>
<p>There are free plans for a rowing scull,<a href="http://koti.kapsi.fi/hvartial/scull1/scull1.htm" rel="nofollow">http://koti.kapsi.fi/hvartial/scull1/scull1.htm </a>I started building them and got to the 3D stage before other projects got in the way. </p><p>Since then my daughter decided she wanted her own kayak, if you look at the finished pictures of the rowing shell you will notice people have been finishing them as kayaks also, so now we will be finishing the boat as a kayak.</p><p>Love the boat you made, hope this gets more people out on the water!</p>
<p>https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.629238657091919.1073741840.613242395358212&amp;type=3 this is the album for the rowing shell so far</p>
<p>Wow, that looks awesome! I hope you post some finished photos or make an instructable when it's done. Good Luck</p>
<p>Great look build! Did Speedunk offer the measurements for the deck pieces or did you just figure it out yourself with some templates?</p>
<p>Yes they had some deck panel measurements at the bottom of the website. A &quot;Side Deck Panel&quot; and a &quot;Center Deck Panel&quot;</p>
<p>very good, would love to do something like this one day</p>
Beautiful build. It inspires me to give a go at building a similar one myself.
Thanks, The results are very rewarding. Good Luck!
If you could find the time to do an instructable on reading and plotting the points i feel it would help many of us inspired, future boat builders ;)
I wish I could but it's been a while. I little trial and error with a paper, pencil, and ruler should get you there.
Wow that is an amazing job!! It is way nicer than a kit!!
Thank you!
I built a CLC stitch and sew kayak some years ago and used a different method of joining the sheets.Instead of scarfing the edges,I cut a zig zag pattern in the ends of the sheets and butted then together with epoxy.They were weighed down on a piece of glass which was perfectly flat and another on top.The glued bits were covered with cling film to stop the plywood sticking to the glass.Lateral pressure was applied to both sheets when they were butted together and kept in place by temporary nailing.The finished effect looks great.I fact I liked the effect so much I joined the deck pieces that way and finished the deck with varnish to show it off.For those of you timorous about the dark art of scarfing,(as I was),I commend this alternative to you.As far as I can tell no structural strength is lost.My boat is still floating and in one piece.
That sounds great! You should post some pictures or write up an instructable. I would like to see the results.
i love what you built because it is beautiful. i know it took a long time but this is something your grandchildren may use. anyway, amazing. you're a real boat builder
Wow that is amazing i found the plans for your kayak and have a few questions. <br> <br>first <br>i don't understand how to read the tables (as in what does top edge bottom edge mean exactly how do you know whats what) <br> <br> second <br> <br>how long did it take for you to build the cardboard mock up? <br> <br>and third <br> <br>how did you make your bungee fasteners? <br> <br> <br>Thanks
Thanks! <br>For drawing the kayak out the table is all in inches. It might help to use some graph paper. The station is the distance from the left, and top edge and bottom edge are relative to where the edge is on the boat. So the top edge will be above the bottom edge when the boat is right side up. <br>I think I did the cardboard mock up in a few hours although I had been reading the instructions and thinking about it for a few days. Just mark out the dots, connect the lines and cut out the shapes. Then glue or tape them together. <br>There's a paragraph at the end where I talk about the bungee fasteners. I think they are called padeyes, and mine are made of scrap plywood glued together, drilled for a hole, and shaped smooth.

About This Instructable




Bio: I'm a software engineer who tries to stay away from the computer when I'm not at work.
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