Stolmen and Ekby Compression Bookshelf System





Introduction: Stolmen and Ekby Compression Bookshelf System

[Better project-complete photos added.]

An absurd set of requirements leads to a hacked compression shelving system for easy maneuverability and expansion.

Recently I 'earned' some upgraded bookshelves.  Having casually shopped shelving for a while, I knew I had some rather absurd requirements:
*  easy to break down and transport 
*  useful as a free-standing divider or against a wall
*  adjustable to varying ceiling heights
A few years ago I chanced across Julie Scheu's "pogo" free-standing bookshelves.  I wanted them immediately.  Since they were a commissioned piece for a gallery in New York, I opted to build my own version.  In metal.  From ikea parts.
While researching compression shelving (the official vocab, it seems), I found sites devoted to pre-built systems.  Most were for commercial use—boring and expensive at the same time.  Thankfully, a site comparing compression shelving referenced ikeahacker and Lucien's stolmen/jarpen shelves.  Hack-tastic!
I integrated the two ideas using Ikea's Ekby shelves, Stolmen poles & brackets and some alternate parts.  Identifying the alternate parts was a chore, due to Ikea's habit of not providing schematics.  However I'm happy to share the results of my trial-and-error process that will hopefully make things smoother for any other ikeahackers using Stolmen parts.

Let's begin the short 'n sweet tour.

Step 1: Stolmen Poles

Be sure to test the telescoping in-store if you can—I had to return two of the four poles I bought for broken telescoping mechanisms within the poles.
Stolmen poles: $30 each

Shelf finish selection
Ekby's Mossby edition isn't as flexible as the Jarpen edition that Lucien used, which can be cut and stained as needed.  But I preferred the metal look.  To achieve two poles and the suspended-shelf effect, I needed to pinion an individual shelf on its centerline.   To do so, I drilled through the metal covering and pressed wood core. 
The metal is very thin and punches through quickly if you're not careful, so take your time.  It also gets hot due to friction, so mind your fingers.  I drilled from the bottom of the shelves toward the metal top, to make sure I wasn't introducing alignment problems.
Ekby Mossby shelves, 31 1/8" x 7 1/2": $30 each
Stolmen brackets
They package a lot of spare crap with these.  Between 4 poles and 16 brackets, I have a whole shoebox of duplicate stuff I never intend to use.
Stolmen brackets:  $15 for a six-pack

I used 32 brackets, half double-tongued for future expansion and half single-tongued for the exposed side.

Step 2: Threaded Tube Ends

I jettisoned the stock Stolmen feet because they look cheap.  I kept the built-in threaded tube ends however.  So I only needed new tube ends for half the project.  Due to Ikea's lack of schematics, it was a challenge to determine the exact interior diameter of the pole with the tools I had on-hand.  I decided to use DrillSpot's selection of S&W TE1-1B Tube Ends at 1-1/2" diameter and 1/2"-13 thread size.  They are actually a hair too small but using double-folded paper rings as a washer kept them in place securely.  I wrapped the paper just below the exposed top and stuffed them in.
1-1/2" tube end:  $8.16 each

Step 3: Threaded Leveling Mounts

Ikea's built-in Stolmen tube ends use a metric(?) size bolt described as an M12 x 1.75.  (Vocab tip:  the second number in these thread descriptions is the 'pitch' or frequency of the ridges on the bolt and is essential to the project.)  With the option to pick new tube ends, I decided to use a more standard 1/2" - 13 thread.  However, that meant I needed complementary feet at different thread sizes.
I chose S&W's "Glide Rite" series.  They come in both thread sizes and can easily handle the load requirements.  They look perfectly decent, too.  Mine came with hard, white plastic pads which work just fine and don't scuff the floor or ceiling.

Step 4: "Sandwich" Bolts

1/4" x 20 x 2 round-top bolts
This is the bolt that runs through the two brackets sandwiching the shelf, which tighten the brackets to hold the shelf in place.  The bottom screw is exposed at 2"—I was tempted to try acorn nuts like Lucien's solution but the effect is negligible.
Bolts:  $2.30 for a pack of three
Last bit about  they offer Google Checkout which means you get significantly cheaper shipping than any competitor.  Other resellers charge as much to ship as the damn parts cost and take a percentage on returned product, too.  Boo.

Step 5: Total Costs

Poles:  4 x $30 = $120
Brackets:  7 x 5-pack (with safety spares) at $15  = $105 
Shelves:  8 x $30 = $240
Drill bit: $5
Bolts:  8 x 3-packs at $2.30:  $19
Tube ends:  4 x $8.16:  $32.64
Threaded feet:  4 x $4.75 and 4 x $2.38

Total:  $550 and change for two substantial shelves

Shipping added about $50 for the leveling mounts and tube ends, not including trial and error orders.    



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    I made sure to make the bottom feet flush, and my shelves have been standing and stacked full of books for over 6 months without problems. Thanks!

    looks like the poles that your whole project is based on are no longer available i think, you link is dead for sure

    Different color, but looks like the same pole.

    Yea, looks like the poles from Ikea is no longer available. Is there any alternative? I am having difficulty to find alternative tension pole from the Internet.

    I had trouble finding the Stolmen ones. We all may be out of luck, then. Perhaps Craigslist would have someone selling a used Stolmen line.

     You see that gap between the floor and the bottom of the pole? That's what I'm talking about. Close that gap; the pole should be resting directly on the feet. If you don't, that plastic end piece where the bolt is threaded through will fatigue and fail within a year. It can't take the sustained weight of a load of books.

     Ah!  Good call.  I do need to reinforce them.  Now that I have my books up, it gives me a better idea of the weight involved.  I'm going to get replacement tube-ends for the bottom, I think.  It's hard to tell from my mobile phone photos but there's a 'locking' nut between the bottom foot and the tube-end.  So that would be the weight-bearing part, which is still not wide enough should the plastic fail. 

    Thanks for adding your concerns!  Very, very helpful.

     My suggestion is to not rely on the locking nut; let the foot rest entirely on the end cap, and extend the tube upwards to lock it in place, rather than extending that bolt downwards to push the rest of the tube up.

    So now I have a 1/4"-thick metal washer standing in for a new tube end, in the meantime.   Before I added the washers, there didn't seem to be any ill effects on the plastic tube end (yet) but it was a mere month.  

    I also have at least one more entire shelf of books that need a home.  May turn that into a supplemental project on here, depending on how ambitious I get.

    I would like to second (and 3rd and 4th) what Berkana said, for exactly the same reason.  I learned the hard way, LFMF.