Introduction: Stooge Table WEREWOLF Made in Cold Porcelain

Picture of Stooge Table WEREWOLF Made in Cold Porcelain

Stooge table WEREWOLF made in cold porcelain

Greetings ladies and gentlemen, welcome to this, my first instructable, here will work my very own technique, I really hope you like it. Well, as you can see here a little work on the design of a puppet manipulation composite (or table/stooge puppet as is more commonly known). we will work with cold porcelain maybe some do not know this wonderful material, well, it's basically a moldable mass that dries at room temperature and it will become rigid, is very practical and economical to prepare, so we'll leave here the link of a instructable to be seen, it will be really worth it ... but here we will make a werewolf, I really advise to you to make whatever changes you want, invent your own characters and let your hands materialize the fantasy...

https://www.instructables.com/id/How-To-Make-Cold-P...

So let's create!!!

MATERIAL'S LIST

• Cold Porcelain of colors white, black or any color you want.

• Icopor.

• Scalpel .

• Fine wire.

• Fishing Nylon (resistance up to 60 lbs).

• Liquid silicone.

• Toilet paper or kitchen towels.

• White glue • Wooden sticks.

• Sandpaper (grade 150).

• Stilettos.

• Foil .

• Hacksaw.

• Thick Wire.

OK let’s do it!!!

Step 1: ​STEP 1: CARVING THE PARTS:

Picture of ​STEP 1: CARVING THE PARTS:

With the scalpel begin to carve the parts we need, once carved we need to polish them with sandpaper 150. In total for this character we need to carve ten specific parts wich are the head, trunk, forearms, two biceps, two thighs and two calves.

Step 2: ​STEP 2: FILL WITH PAPER

Picture of ​STEP 2: FILL WITH PAPER

Apply in all 10 carved parts white glue and cover up more white glue, this is in order that the pieces acquire more strength without the weight commit. Let it dry...

Step 3: ​STEP 3: CONTROLS THE PUPPET

Picture of ​STEP 3: CONTROLS THE PUPPET

Meanwhile, we need to open a hole in the back of the calfs and in the head to fix some wooden sticks so that from there you can control the movements of the puppet ... the sticks are fixed with liquid silicone.

Step 4: ​STEP 4: COLD PORCELAIN IN ACTION!

Picture of ​STEP 4: COLD PORCELAIN IN ACTION!

Take cold porcelain pieces and put it to cover body parts ... I advise you not to stay neither too thin nor too thick, a thickness of approximately 3 to 5 mm would be fine. Once placed, the cold porcelain we can do some modeling like giving the pieces hair texture, this is achieved by passing a stylus over the cold porcelain up and down repeatedly. I almost forgot, if you want to paint the puppet controls this is a good time, let it dry, usually the cold porcelain dries in about one day.

Step 5: ​STEP 5: HANDS

Picture of ​STEP 5: HANDS

To make the hands we need fine wire structures that mimic the shape of hands, look after them with wooden sticks so that they can be manipulated, then surround them with foil to give volume, then cover with cold porcelain.

Step 6: ​STEP 6: HEAD

Picture of ​STEP 6: HEAD

We need to make the head and start to put all the parts to make a head shape ... in the photos there is the sequence of how it looks and where to place the parts ... do not forget to give it texture.

Step 7: ​STEP 7: CUTS FOR THE JOINTS

Picture of ​STEP 7: CUTS FOR THE JOINTS

You guys need to pay attention to this part, keep in mind that the parts go together with nylon ... we locate the parts that carry the grooves and holes of the joints, namely the two thighs and two biceps, take a hacksaw, let's start with the thighs, make cuts both ends across half the diameter of the workpiece, the two cuts in the thigh should be parallel, in the same direction and with a depth of no more than one half centimeters, biceps also need these cuts but these are perpendicular on the pieces, once this is done, we need to sand away the cuts to make the spaces between bigger, with that space and we can move into the part small pieces of cold porcelain made them so they fit in the walls of the cut, as a result we have some pieces with spaces where you can slip the nylon through without problems.

Step 8:

Picture of

STEP 8: DRILLING FOR JOINTS

At the head, forearms, calves and parts of the trunk that communicate with the limbs and head is prudent to make perforations, the parts to which they were made cuts also would touch them, also make some perforations crossing from side to side as shown in the pictures.

Step 9: ​STEP 9: THICK WIRE SHAFT SET

Picture of ​STEP 9: THICK WIRE SHAFT SET

In the perforations of the thighs and biceps we will place some thick wires passing through the holes, cut them so that they are fair in the piece and lock them in place with liquid silicone.

Step 10: ​STEP 10: NYLON IN ACTION

Picture of ​STEP 10: NYLON IN ACTION

With the scalpel cut plastic pieces in the form of rings, these little pieces serve to tie and fix the nylon, spent said nylon for the ring and set the head went through a short wire to make a l ittle stopper, make the nylon go through the gap of the head and secure it with silicone, once this is done we pass the nylon by the neck hole, you see this hole ends at the bottom of the trunk, there must also tie up with small plastic pieces and silicone so the head is already secured to the body, use more than two nylons in the head is a good idea, attention, do not cut the nylons, they serve to make the tail later. To add the biceps and thighs to the body, pass the nylon between the thick wire that is fixed on the piece of the biceps and thighs, once this is done pass the nylon through the hole in the trunk that ends in the back, moor, secure it with silicone and cut the nylon that is remaining. In order to complete the extremities, take another nylon wire from the thighs and bíceps and make it go through the calves and forearms as appropriate. Having done that the hands may be tied to the forearms with nylon, I make it so in this figure I added a piece to the calf to make it higher and to disappear by the end of nylon in the left leg.

Step 11: ​STEP 11: DETAILS AND FINISHES

Picture of ​STEP 11: DETAILS AND FINISHES

With a piece of flattened cold porcelain wrap the nylon we leave for the tail, scoop out to make some texture and there we have the tail of our character, also cover the exposed parts with silicone, to finish you can do details such as placing hair in parts where there is and some other features so your own puppet is unique.

Step 12: ​SOMETHINGS TO CONSIDER

Picture of ​SOMETHINGS TO CONSIDER

• The color of cold porcelain usually darkens as it dries.

• The cold porcelain melts at too damp place or in contact with water

• If the cold porcelain is very sticky leave it outdoors for a period of about ten minutes, knead it and see if you see some differences.

• Vaseline also helps the cold porcelain not to stick to the hands ... or other surfaces, so please take this into account

I hope you like, make many puppets with this technique, also there are fun to made and almost non expensive, also please do no hesitate to make some photos and send them to me, hope to see or hear from you guys, see ya around.

Comments

Mr.Sanchez (author)2016-10-17

Buen trabajo ! Gracias por compartir. Votado.

M.C. Langer (author)2016-10-16

Fantastic job, el Buen Lobo! I love it!

DIY Hacks and How Tos (author)2016-10-16

This looks really cool. Good luck in the clay contest.

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