Step 2: Attach the headboard to the bed

The first thing I wanted to do was to attach the bed to the headboard so that they were one solid unit. Because of the design of my Ikea bed and headboard they had plenty of surface area to attach to each other.

I used 4 3/8" bolts evenly spaced along the head board to hold the pieces together.

Clamp the headboard to the bed frame so it does not move. Drill holes the exact size as your bolts. Use large washers on either side of the bolt to prevent the bolt from damaging the wood and better dispersing the bolts holding power.

You may need an assistant for this step as it was difficult to be on both sides of my headboard at the same time. 
ooooor you could move the bed 5cm away from the wall ;)
Trust me, does NOT work for long. ask your parents
If you think of the bed as an "L" shape where the bed and headboard look like ;------| then its easy to see that any horizontal force applied to the bed will rock the headboard at its pivot point, wether it is attached to the bed or not. Even so, a small 1/2"-1" of movement or play in the bed translates to a 2-4" movement at the top of the headboard. It also can create a ratcheting movement causing the bed to move in a particular direction until it does hit the wall. The best solution in general is to immobilize both the bed against the floor and the headboard against the wall.
Just stick on some thick chunks of polyethylene foam, recycled from packaging. <br>
I solved the same problem by placing small pieces of mdf on the floor between the baseboard and the 2 legs under the headboard. The mdf was a rectangle with a square notch cut into the end to receive the legs of the bed. As long as the mdf is longer than the distance between the leg and the wall + a little buffer for the headboards ability to bend you should be good. <br> <br>The benefit is that you don't need to attach anything to the bed and any potential wear on the wall is on the baseboard by the floor. <br>
Was hoping comments would be funnier.
Was hoping comments would be funnier.
Clearly thought out, executed and explained. Very good, we will try this for my Son's bed. Since getting a new one a few years ago, and being 6'4" he has a hard time just sitting on it. Thanks!
I think you have solved a very common problem. Thanks.
I found a very large sponge in the paint department of a hardware store. I &quot;sawed&quot; it in half and glued it to the back of my headboard--one on each side near the top. It worked well for 15 years...until I sold the headboard and matching furniture.
I always have folded up a bath towel and put it behind the headboard, got one there now, doesn't make any noise.
Thanks, no more chipped wall paint!
Haha thankyou very very much! I will have to do this to my bed ASAP ;) and just hope it doesn't go through the damn wall haha :p which it may.... - still, thanks :)
you gonna end up with some holes in the drywall where those floor sliders contact while you're "jumping" on the bed unless they are just right over the studs. As a handyman its not the first time I've seen this type of fix. The problem is the sliders don't have enough surface area and push through. I'd suggest a board the correct thickness that runs the width of the headboard.
Thanks for your comment. A board could work as well but molding tends to vary in thickness hence why I went with adjustable feet. Like I said, no problems after a year of use.
Thank you so much. It just so happens that my headboard bangs against the wall every night ;-)
Very handy thanks :)!!! <br>
That is a really handy fix!

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Bio: I like to take things apart, sometimes they go back together sometimes they end up as something entirely different then where they started.
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