loading

How many burners do you ever use simultaneously? The most I've ever used at a time is 3 when I'm cooking a big spread for a bunch of friends. I almost always only use one or two at a time. With limited counter space in my apartment kitchen, I'm always precariously balancing plates and cutting boards on the unused burners while I'm cooking. The Stove Top / Counter Top gives you an extra 275 square inches of counter space and doubles as a cutting board!

Step 1: What You'll Need

TOOLS

  • Tape Measure & Square
  • Saws (table saw & compound miter saw or hand saws & circular saw)
  • Drill (drill press or hand drill)
  • Planer & Jointer (or use finish-cut lumber)
  • Clamps (bar clamps, pressure clamps, quick clamps and ratchet straps were used here)
  • Wood Glue
  • Sandpaper (80 grit stepping down to 180 grit)

MATERIALS

  • Wood: I used rough cut 1X6 (3/4" X 5 1/2" actual dimensions) planks of maple.
  • Blocks: I used a 2X2 (1 1/2" X 1 1/2" actual dimensions) cedar member.
  • Adjustable Feet
  • T-Nuts
  • Butcher Block Oil Finish

Step 2: Measure the Stovetop

These can vary pretty widely, but the one in my apartment a pretty standard 30" Gas oven with stovetop. The surface of the stove may not be level, so measure from the top of the burners to the lowest point of the stove surface. A 1 3/4" space on the inside of the block is enough to give clearance to the burners on my stove.

I decided to make the block the full length of the stovetop and half the width. On my stove, that comes to 20 " deep by 13 3/4" wide.

Step 3: Choose the Wood and Measure It

There's plenty of info online for cutting boards. The most common species seems to be Maple because it's a tight grain non-porous wood- the last thing you want is bacteria thriving in the open pores of your cutting board. I went with maple because it wasn't too expensive and it matches all the Ikea stuff in my kitchen pretty well.

I started with four 3/4" X 6" X 4' rough cut boards. The cutting surface will be 3/4" thick laminated boards with a 3/4" skirt around it (the open space inside the box hides the burners).

If you're using rough cut wood, it's important to measure it in several places with calipers. The actual thickness will vary, and you'll need to know what the maximum is when you're jointing and planing.

Step 4: Planing / Jointing

These boards are rough cut, meaning they're uneven, warped, not square, not plumb... Thankfully we have an awesome planer and jointer at Pier 9. I was taught to do it this way:

1. Edge Jointing

2. Surface Jointing

3. Planing

The end result is a pile of perfectly square boards that are exactly 3/4" thick (the rough ones are actualy around 7/8" thick at their maximum).

You can save yourself this step by buying boards that are already precision cut.

Step 5: Cutting the Pieces

I divided the width of the top surface by 3 and cut three boards to that width on the table saw- these will be laminated later.

I cut a few lengths of 1 3/4" wide boards to make the skirt and mitered those on a radial arm saw. This is easy to do with a hand saw and a miter box if you don't have one of those. The sizes for the skirt are as follows:

2X 1 3/4" X 3/4" X 13 3/4"

2X 1 3/4" X 3/4" X 20"

Since the board is going to have adjustable feet, I cut some 1 1/2" X 1 1/2" X 1" cedar blocks for the feet to screw into using t-nuts.

Step 6: Gluing Part 1

To make the top surface, I laminated the three wide boards on edge. To make sure everything was flush, I clamped both on the sides and on the top of the boards. I used a sheet of acrylic as a clamping surface so that I wouldn't glue the boards to the workbench. I think wax paper is the typical way to do this, but the acrylic was lying around and I can re-use it for other projects.

To make the square-edged frame, I used a ratchet strap and clamped it to the table. I then added the four 1 1/2" X 1 1/2" X 1" wooded blocks to the inside of the frame corners- these will be drilled out later for the adjustable feet.

Step 7: Cutting & Gluing

After the glue cured, I un-clamped everything and cut the top surface to 13 3/4" X 20" on the table saw (this could easily be done with a handheld circular saw if you don't have a table saw).

After sanding the top part of the skirt to avoid any gaps in the sides later, I glued and clamped the whole box together making sure to keep the edges as flush as possible.

Step 8: Adjustable Feet

Next, I drilled holes in the blocks on the under side of the box for the t-nuts. The drill press ensures a perfectly plumb hole, but this could also be done with a hand drill.

The t-nuts have little teeth that pierce the wood when hammered in. Then I checked the depth of the holes by screwing in the adjustable feet and making sure they could go all the way down.

Step 9: Routing Edges

To get some nice consistent 1/4" radius edges all the way around, I used the table router. Make sure you take the adjustable feet out before you do this step!

You ease your edges with a palm sander (or a sanding block) if you don't have access to a router.

Step 10: Sanding and Finishing

You really want to go as fine as possible with the sanding and finishing to make it easy to clean. This is the part I always rush through with wood projects, and I always regret it later.

There was a very tight fit between the skirt and the top when I glued them together, but there were still some hairline cracks. I made my own wood putty with sawdust from the palm sander's collector and a dollop of wood glue. There are endless varieties of wood putty, but this is a quick way to be sure your putty will match the wood.

There were a couple of hair width gaps in the glue joints, I filled those by mixing sawdust with glue to make my own wood filler that matches the wood.

Then I sanded the whole thing down to 180 grit making sure to get all the little surface inconsistencies.

After 3 coats of Butcher Block & Cutting Board oil, it's ready to go!

Step 11: Finished Product

I wouldn't call it dishwasher safe given the hardware on the underside, but the butcher block oil makes for an easily cleanable surface. One unexpected plus is that the height of it allows you to swipe chopped food into a pan without having to pick up the cutting board. Having your cutting surface so close to the burners makes cooking a lot quicker.

Made an open-front and -rear version for a friend with very limited stoveptop real estate, out of some scrap butcher block. Thanks for the great instructions!
<p>Man, that is really nice! I love the 1" butcher block planks. This is way better than mine- well done!</p>
<p>I think this tutorial is really awesome. But, I think I will stick to my piece of marble in light of the possible splitting and burning issues. I do love the idea.</p>
O yeah I forgot about that LOL! I remember now tho since u mentioned it! ?
<p>nice job, I wonder how long before the heat from the other 2 burners will discolor the wood? </p>
<p>Actually mine started to split along one of the seams because of heat from the vent at the backsplash. I don't have a fancy range, so the heat from the oven just pours into the room. The heat from the other burners doesn't seem to have any effect. </p>
I put a board over one of my sinks when I needed more than 2 burners on my tiny apt. stove. It helped out so much but mine wasn't as nice as yours or used as a cutting board either.
<p>I've seen that trick before in RVs. It's a really smart use of space.</p>
<p>Nicely explained. A photo of the finished underside in step 1 would help understanding the cutting in the later steps tho.</p>
<p>Ask and you shall receive: added a photo of the underside in step 10.</p>
<p>Thanks, but what I meant was to show it earlier; I got to step 5 and suddenly there is some small blocks being cut (in the pictures), that was explained below, but if I had seen the completed underside, it would have been clear what that was about. (but I probably skimmed over something earlier)</p><p>Maybe you should add the 1.5&quot; square to the materials list? I just went back to look at step 5, the photos call them 2x2, but the text 1-1/2 x 1-1/2?? Similarly in step 6.</p>
<p>I see what you mean. The last 4 photos of step 6 show where the blocks go- they are glued to the inside corners of the skirt. The skirt (with blocks) is left to dry separately from the top, then they are glued together.</p><p>You're absolutely right about the materials list, thanks for catching that! </p><p>Here's the deal with lumber dimensions: with American lumber, there are nominal dimensions and actual dimensions. A 2X2 is actually 1 1/2&quot; X 1 1/2&quot;, a 2X4 is actually 1 1/2&quot; X 3 1/2&quot; and so on, so I can hardly blame you for being confused! The way you can tell the difference when it's written is that actual dimensions get the &quot; mark at the end, nominal dimensions don't. Add this to the long list of nonsensical american weights and measures standards.</p>
<p>Lets make it out of somthing non flamable.</p>
<p>Good idea- maybe an aluminum base with a wooden top.</p>
<p>It would be interesting to see this project in a year's time to see what wood movement has done to that glued down top. I've seen tables that people have glued the top to the base split mightily.</p>
<p>Funny you should mention that, I just noticed a hairline crack between two of the top boards. I think washing it did the trick. I guess the best option is to make some more wood putty and fill it in. </p>
<p>I'd prepare the board in &quot;Step 4 Planing/Jointing&quot; as follows:</p><p>1. Surface Jointing</p><p>2. Edge Jointing</p><p>3. Planing</p><p>4. Tablesaw to width</p><p>or as I like to phrase it: flatten a face, make one edge perpendicular, make the other face parallel, and cut the parts to dimension.</p><p>This is especially true if the board was a rough plank or had a twist in it. This way you have a flat face against your jointer's fence to &quot;guarantee&quot; a 90 degree face to edge relationship.</p>
<p>Thanks for the tip! </p>
<p>Nice project. One caution I would send out there is to anyone with a gas stove that has pilot lights (looks like yours is a newer model with electronic strikers). Leaving this on a gas stove over pilot lights is a sure way to start a fire. Good looking piece though - think I may have to make one of these.</p>
<p>This is really lovely! I always just place a simple wooden cutting board though on top :/. I would be concerned about cleaning a more elaborate object. <br><br>This is much more permanent looking and nice, though. </p>
<p>I love this I have been using a large cutting block..and when I use three burners I use a round cutting board on one burner..but I love this going to find some one to make this for me..thanks</p>
Please be very watchful that your small child, or any child, for that matter, doesn't accidentally turn on that burner.
<p>Interesting, when I was I child I never thought about randomly turning on burners. I guess my parents much have taught me not to.</p>
<p>Good call. Those of us who are pre-children don't go into every home project with kid-proofing in mind- good thing we've got a community of people who do! I think alcurb's suggestion of gluing magnets to the underside of the knobs and taking them off and sticking them to the backsplash when the burners are covered is a great idea.</p>
<p>Having glued many projects to my work surface, I'll have to remember that trick to glue onto acrylic. This looks very sharp on the stove. </p>
<p>Save some cash and get some board with melamine (such as an old countertop).</p>
<p>Thanks man. Wax paper seems to be the go-to method for most people, but getting a perfectly flat surface that way seems less reliable.</p>
<p>Brilliant and beautiful ! Hope to make one for myself when I get my shop set up. Thanks : )</p>
<p>I love it --just dont use it on the left side when using the oven-Great idea!!</p>
It's a fantastic idea. I have most of the tools minus table saw and planer. Can I do without those? <br>I have one concern about the project. We at home are more than occasionally turning on the wrong burner. We have metal covers for the burners and the covers don't last that long because of it. So for the board, maybe wire temperature sensor underneath?
<p>I just removed the two handles/thingamajig that aren't being used :)</p>
<p>Why I didn't think of that? Since the knobs are usually hollow underneath (it's an injection molding thing), I would glue in a small rare-earth magnet button in the hollow space so that I can stick the handles on the control panel next to the knob shafts to not lose them.</p><p>I'm going to look into how to build it with portable power tools like a hand electric saw, power drill/screwdriver. It won't be as pretty as yours. And, ah yes, clamps, many clamps, you can never have enough clamps. :)</p>
<p>&quot;Knobs!&quot; thank you! lol I forgot the term until you mentioned it lol</p><p>I have a housemate who isn't a frequent kitchen user so to avoid accidents I just removed them and hid them.</p><p>And I agree... you can never have enough clamps lol</p>
<p>Are your controls on the top of your stove top? So you're thinking you'd have to take them off to fit one of these? Since mine are on the front I don't have that issue.</p><p>I think this is completely doable with hand tools, it'll just take more patience. To get your cuts just right, clamp down a straight edged fence to guide the saw- you'll get much straighter cuts.</p>
<p>Will they do miter cuts in the &quot;big-box&quot; hardware chain stores? The store I'm thinking of is T.H.Depot.</p>
<p>I don't think so. They always give you the warning &quot;we don't do precision cutting&quot;, so I don't think you'd want them to anyway. You can definitely do it with a miter box and a hand saw though- I'd recommend a japanese pull saw.</p>
<p>Can you guys send a picture of this? I'm curious about how it would work with other stoves.</p>
<p>Also, I see from your profile you live in San Francisco. Why not get a <a href="http://techshop.ws/" rel="nofollow">Techshop </a>membership? They've got all the tools you'd need for almost any woodworking project.</p>
<p>You can definitely do it without a table saw, planer and jointer. Buying wood that's finish cut will keep you from needing a planer / jointer, and clamping a fence and using a circular saw will do the same job the table saw is doing.</p><p>As far as the burners, don't turn them on! I just tried it thinking there might not be enough air under there to get them going but they definitely ignite. A sensor seems a little over the top to me- what about choosing a side you'll always use and painting the knobs for that side a different color? I think that would do it for me.</p>
What a wonderful idea!
Love this! Great idea for those of us who are seriously crunched for space :)

About This Instructable

38,348views

705favorites

License:

Bio: I'm a full-time Designer at the Instructables Design Studio (best job ever). My background is in residential architecture, film set design, film animatronics, media ... More »
More by JON-A-TRON:Learn to Draw Perpetual Clock With Arduino Giant Knob Lamp 
Add instructable to: