Step 2: Solder in the Male Headers

Once you're happy everything fits together as it should, go ahead and solder in the headers.

Keep your soldering as neat as you can and try not to get any solder further up the pins than you need to as this will make it difficult to insert them into the sockets on the Arduino board.

The 6-pin header is reasonably easy, but you may find the 8-pin header more tricky if the adjustment process has left the pins a little loose (I had a few that were prone to falling out!). To help keep the pins lined up, I used a second piece of stripboard as a spacer jig. (If you do this, place the pins in the top row of holes, not a few rows down like in my photo. This will make it easier to get access with the soldering iron...)

When the soldering is done, go back and check everything fits into the Arduino board again.
yeah thank u for that example
<p>You can also download my gerber files to have your own PCB built, which fits on an Arduino Uno from here - <a href="https://goo.gl/4sY3iV" rel="nofollow">https://goo.gl/4sY3iV</a></p><p>I am also working on designing more programming boards for other chips as well - <a href="https://oshpark.com/profiles/DanR" rel="nofollow">https://oshpark.com/profiles/DanR</a></p>
<p>Great Instructable! Certainly makes programming ATTinys a whole lot easier.</p><p>Here are some pics of mine blinking..... </p>
Link isn't working :(
Here is with led and jumpers for both led and cap
why the jumpers? aren't these caps just on the wrong rows?
And with a reset button
Nice one - thanks :)
Is it necessary to set the fuses first?
I will add the LED to the shield for testing the blink sketch.
Thanks for the compliment! :) With regards to the LED for testing the blink sketch, I noticed that on <a href="http://hlt.media.mit.edu/?p=1695" rel="nofollow">http://hlt.media.mit.edu/?p=1695 </a>it says<br> <br> &quot;If you then connect an LED between pin 0 and ground, you should see it blink on and off. Note that you may need to disconnect the LED before uploading a new program.&quot;<br> <br> I've not tested to see if this is dependent on which pin the LED is connected to (maybe it doesn't matter on pin 3 or 4?) but it might be worth investigating further before soldering stuff up...
Easiest would be to attach a led via a 2 pin header in series, with a shorting block to connect or disconnect the led
Is that a 555 in the pic?
Hah! Yes! Well spotted! <br> <br>I'd like to be able to say that I keep my workspace tidy and complete each project before moving on to the next, but I got a bit of cross-pollination with this one... <br> <br>I hadn't noticed that it had infiltrated that photo - thanks for the heads-up!
thanks for the help!!! <br> <br>waggles Pom-Poms towards the UK and gives three cheers!
Fantastic Instructable. I've linked to here from my <a href="https://www.instructables.com/id/Make-an-Attiny13-based-IR-proximity-sensor-for-2/" rel="nofollow">Attiny13 proximity Sensor Instructable</a> in the programming step.

About This Instructable




Bio: Artist, perpetual protovator. Don't mistake me for someone who actually knows stuff!
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