Step 6: Glue/Nail on Support Rail

My support rail is long and thin (scrap wood 1/2" thick) cut into two 4' feet strips and pre-drilled (with a small drill bit) in four places ready for screws. I apply glue to one side of the support rail and screw onto the inside of the board with my 1/2" inch gap in mind. Pre-drill your rail and use 1 1/2" inches screws.
Note: If you select a wood strip support system instead of plywood, make your support rail the entire length of the side boards. You can't afford gaps with a wood strip support system.
<p>Has anyone made a full bed with 2x4 rails and a 2x6 center support? Will the rails support the weight?</p>
<p>can people post when they are finished because I want to see how up to date this project is</p>
Awesome instructable! I used this as a basis for my design. I lowered the inside frame so that the mattress sits 1 inch below the top of the 2x6. An old metal bed frame donated its casters to make it easily movable. Seems pretty sturdy.
<p>How did this idea of placing the mattress 1 inch below the top of 2x6 work overall? Worked in the long run?</p><p>Was 1 inch good enough or you would rather make it 2-3 inches below? Having the mattress &quot;framed&quot; by the sides looks to me better than just placing the mattress right on the top of the frame.</p>
<p>I will try to make one in the following weeks. I am just thinking of putting the mattress (Brooklyn Bedding, Full XL, 54x80x10) 2-3 inches below the top of the sides 2x12. So the mattress is being framed, so to speak. I guess having the mattress right on the top of the frame makes the mattress susceptible to moving off the frame edges. Whereas having the mattress &quot;framed&quot; makes the entire bed more stable.</p>
Ignore the messy bed; teenage boy. ;)<br>Made this full-size bed in 2 halves so we could move it from garage to bedroom (first picture is left 1/2 completed). Used (3) 4&quot; long bolts with wing nuts through 3 drilled holes to attach left &amp; right halves. Worked great! No wheels. 2 X 12's outside; 2 X 10's inside. 4 X 4's are same height as 2 X 10's. We used 3/4&quot; plywood for the deck/platform. This sucker is STRONG. <br><br>The corners are just a smidgey bit warped -the big box home improvement store picked &amp; cut the lumber for me, &amp; it was less than ideal &amp; short on a couple of pieces. Also we discovered that our garage floor is warped, haha. Oh well, not picture perfect but very VERY functional &amp; strong. <br><br>We have made a 2nd one as well for twin 'B', &amp; both guys love their super strong industrial beds. <br><br>So far, these are the ONLY bed frames our sons (now 18) have not broken. They are average size 18 year olds with profound, non-verbal autism that bounce, hop, and jump on their beds when emotional, so we needed an industrial-strength solution. <br><br>I have more detailed plans that I drew up; I may try to find those &amp; post them a bit later.
<p>I'll be using 2 X 12's, sitting directly on the floor (no casters, no legs extending below the 2 X 12's. I'll use plywood for the deck, &amp; I understand I need to drill holes in the deck so the mattress can breathe. My question to anyone here, is should I drill some smaller holes in the 2 X 12's so air can circulate under the frame? I guess I'm thinking I'm not sure adding holes to the plywood deck will help any if the frame is sitting straight down on the floor like a solid box with no air...am I right? Or does it matter?</p>
<p>Thanks for the inspiration! We built this bed for my daughter this weekend. From start to finish, including building, sanding, priming, and painting, it probably took us about eight hours. We used 23 inch legs to facilitate being able to store full size storage bins underneath. Total cost was under $150... could have been less if we didn't paint it, or used paint we already had and if we used plywood, instead of 10&quot; wide boards for slats. We bought all our supplies at Lowe's. Overall, it seems like a good design and like it should hold up to my daughter's use for many years to come! We may try building another one soon for our older daughter, with shorter legs and wheels!</p>
I just made this. Easy. Hard part was drilling through the 4x4, it kept angling a bit.
I've made two almost identical beds. The first when I was in HS with very long legs. my bed ended up 4 feet in the air as some sort of half loft. <br/><br/>Looking back it was a little over built. So, most recently I made a more delicate version using white pine 1x6s for the sides. Once glued with the running support rails(1x2) they turn quite strong. I made L shapped legs with 1x2 to give it very light feet. I'm happy with how it turned out. Then I sprung for the lyred slats from Ikea. <a rel="nofollow" href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/tatagatha/216844436/in/photostream/">Check it out.</a>Check it out.<br/><br/>I can see the main advantage<br/>
thanks! just the modification I was looking for. nice work!
Is that the correct name for those slats?
The slats I used were the Sultan Lillaker from Ikea. I thought I had used the Sultan Liared slats.. and then I that turned into lyred in my head, which I then made up as an adjective. If I were to give it a definition, it would mean a gentle bend in laminated wood (think lyre like the harp).
thanks for clearing that up, nice project.
I like this instructable a lot. Nice and heavy duty. My old box frame is nothing more than a pile of wood scraps under my mattress these days (guess we tumble too much). We have had a couple of king-sized waterbeds over the years and each time the waterbed went out the door, I made sure the wood frame stayed in a corner of the garage so I will be using those 2x8 in my construction. Why pay for more wood??? Thanks for posting this nice DIY.
This is a sturdy looking design. I'll be making a couple twin beds using this instructable for my two boys. this would be perfect for them. Nice job on this.
I recommend perforating the plywood base by drilling several large (~1") holes. Space them 6" apart in a diagonal grid. This will allow the mattress to breathe and prevent moisture buildup.
Good thinkin' Batman.
I did mine using a stainless steel carriage bolt. I find the hex heads to be unsightly. Then I polished the bolt head. And used red cedar 4X4 as posts and used a red stain and then polyurethane. Also if you can cedar all round.
Why treated 4x4's? The bed is in the house, not outside, or damp locations. I'd just use standard non-treated lumber. As for slats, go with sheet plywood.
Here are the results of my successful attempt! Couple of suggestions: To the author: add plywood to your supply list. To builders: 1 try and find some clamps for securing the legs to the rails when you drill 2 LABEL LABEL LABEL your combos of leg/rail. You will not get perfect drilling on every side so you want to put it together just as you drilled. There is an example of this in my second photo (the sharpie "C"). Woot! New bed!
Did you use plywood or slates? The feet on yours looks longer. Are they? May be a bit late to ask since I had them cut to 10&quot; but I bought 10' so I have plenty left over.
Plywood and yes my legs were around 24 inches.
So the mattress doesn't sit inside the frame right? It sits on top?
I like this simple approach. Hats off to you sir! Has anyone came up with a way to add a headboard...?
i don't understand the comment in step 6: "You can't afford gaps with a wood strip support system."
Three years later... Wood slats can shift and possibly move to where they fall through the gaps. Say you use 1&quot;x4&quot; wood slats and to save money you cut a 2&quot;x2&quot;x8' into 6&quot; strips. After a few tumbles with with the person of your chosing or a pillow fight or two, the 1&quot;x4&quot; could &quot;walk&quot; it's way off the 2&quot;x2&quot; making the other slates take up the additional preasure. Depending on how far apart you had the original supports, they could fail. And if you have my luck, it will happen while you are tumbling.
Next time you might want to try using a cedar 4 X 4 instead of the pressure treated one - cedar smells nice and has less icky chemicals in it.
And the Cedar will help keep the bugs away to some extent.
we all need new beds
Just finished this today and wow.... took me very little time since I had them cut everything for me at Home Depot. The wife is very happy and even the dog tested it out. Thanks for this great instructable!<br />
M son made this bed 2 weeks ago, wonderful instructions! Thanks so much for posting it. We got the http://www.ikea.com/us/en/catalog/products/60160217 to go under the mattress. <br /> <br />
ps. We used the only non-treated 4x4 for the legs available, cedar. It's quite nice.<br />
yes ur wood is dangerous filled with chemicals and such....but i dont think i seen anyone complain on the loft beds????? like the idea still to hard for ME to build...and i'm betting a bit heavy to try to move?
Thanks for the great instructable. So great I had to make one for myself, and I must say it turned out pretty awesome. I did a few things slightly different than you did it. First was to put 2- 2x4's crossways instead of 1 length ways. Oh I also used liquid nail adhesive instead of wood glue. Also I made mine 60"x80" (queen size). All said and done it cost me about $90-$100 CAD and roughly 10 hours to complete, including picking up the materials. ( a few to many blunt breaks too i guess :D). Thanks for the inspiration.
You make me proud, Teeps! If we could get 12 more people to do this, by university standards we could start up a fraternity. Thanks for your feedback on additional materials. Looks like you had much better a workspace. Let me know how much you paid for your bed.
Great project. However, the treated timber is a bit of a worry. This may be a repeat comment and Robbtoberfest and others have posted comments on this but ya gotta think of ya health first and foremost. There are some chemicals in that stuff. Designed for outdoor and ground contact where untreated woods would soon rot and come under attack from insect and fungi. At the moment there is a bit in the local news about carpenters and timber workers coming down ill with repertory illnesses. Take care with it and wear a mask when cutting!!
If it's old enough (<2003), the treated wood was treated with extremely toxic chromated copper arsenate, and sawdust would be quite dangerous to be around and breath. Not sure I would want it under my bed, either, but ymmv. I like the idea, though. I'd probably try to put some protection on the sides for the floor for when I move it through a doorway on its side.
Another way to make the support rails in the sides is to use a table saw to notch out the top of the 2x6.. or setup a jig and use a router to remove the material to form a notch, you can also use a router to "bull nose" the squared end cuts. I had a custom futon made when I was 16, we made our own frame for the futon out of 2x6's and 1x4's...
This is nice, thanks for the idea. I have only one issue, the treated lumber 4x4s; aren't they a health risk?
Get a can of cheap sanding sealer and seal them, job done, no worries...!
they used to be impregnated with arsenic chloride, but haven't been for several years now... so it's probably ok if your wood is new... then again, maybe they'll decide in a few years the less nasty stuff in it now is just as bad as arsenic... if you're still concerned, and assuming you can't find any untreated lumber, i would seal the treated 4x4s with several coats of paint or varnish or something before building the bed. they're pretty much hidden, so it wouldn't take away from the aesthetics really.
thats pretty gangster!!.. LOL no, i really like it :-D! I love making big things (like bed, shelf, etc.)..
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This a nice project. I could use a new bed.
these beds are really nice, now i know how to make them! (favorited)

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