Studio Monitor Speaker Stands
7 Steps

## Step 5: Make the PVC stands

You want the tweeters of the speakers to be at about ear level, so sit in your engineering chair and measure from the floor up to your ear for the height you want. Mine was about 46".

Now, figure the height of the speaker (mine are 9") and the tweeter is 1" from the top, so subtract 8" from 46" = 38". The top platform assembly is 1-3/4" (2x 3/4" plus 1/4" for the pad) and the top of the floor base assembly is about 3" from the floor. All this mathematical computation tells us that our PVC needs to be 33-1/4".

I used my chop saw to cut the PVC into two pieces 33-1/4" long. Make sure you hold the PVC tight against the fence of the saw -- you want these cuts to be as square as possible.

Now you need to cut the All-Thread for each of the stands. Since we are recessing the nuts slightly into both the top and base plates, you can add 1" to the measurement of your PVC. In our case, we'll cut it to 34-1/4". If you want, you can cut it a bit longer at this stage and trim it off once your assembly is done.

Unless you like the look of white PVC, now would be a good time to paint your PVC tubes. I used a textured spray paint which is reminiscent of a sandstone finish.

Once your painted PVC is good and dry, we do the assembly.
Place a nut and washer on one end of the All-thread and put it into the top plate for the bottom base, with the nut and washer on the recessed side. Initially, I put a top washer on the top side of this. This turned out to be a mistake. Since you may have to tighten the All-Thread, it is best to allow the bottom to extend more into the floor base since it is hidden from view.

Line one end of the PVC with a fair amount of the silicone sealant and then place it over the All-thread, gooey side down, to the base. Center the PVC on the base. Put the top plate on and finger tighten another nut and washer on the All-thread. Allow the silicone to set.

Once the silicone has set, we can fill the PVC with sand. The sand should be dry, so I spread mine out on a roll of paper in the hot sun to dry it out. Now you can take off the top plate and start pouring your sand carefully into the PVC. I stopped several times to lightly pack down the sand with a stick. Once you've filled, packed and filled some more, level off the sand around the top of the All-thread and line the rim of the top of the PVC with a bead of silicone. Place the top plate on the All-thread with the recessed hole to the top, place your washer and nut and tighten up the nut good and snug. Make sure the top plate is properly aligned to the base before tightening.

Repeat for the other stand. It will go quicker.

Now, we'll put it all together
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rootvalue says: Jan 5, 2012. 7:58 PM
Thanks for the helpful tutorial; your depth is really helpful as most people skimp out on the minor details. I, however, find them intriguing and appreciate the effort behind them.

Also, this is the first time I've seen 'All-Thread' and I'm amazed. How long do they make these, and do you pick them up at a Home Depot or similar home improvement store?
ddjack59 (author) says: Jan 6, 2012. 5:52 PM
You can get all-thread in 10 or 12 ft lengths at Home Depot or Lowe's or the like. It's usually in the electrical dept.