Instructables
first you must find a disposable camera. I think I used one with the brand name kodak. the reason this works is because of a component in the camera called capacitor. this component is charged, holds its charge, and then will quickly discharge. this of course is useful for the flash in the camera, so do not buy a camera without a flash. (I was originally going to make a flash bang by rewiring the shudders and flash, and by upping the voltage on the battery, but bought the wrong kind of camera, and got the idea for this after shocking my self while messing around with the circuitry. being shocked with this hurts, and it is dangerous so please be responsible and do not use this on animals people or flammable items.

Materials:
Duck tape
electrical tape
super glue
disposable camera
solder
insulated wires
disposable camera

tools needed:
pliers
wire cutters
screw drivers
soldering iron

Update:
I recently remade one of these with four of the capacitors in parallel. Got some amazing sparks with a deafening crack. here's a video:



 
 
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Step 1: Remove the cover from the camera

Picture of remove the cover from the camera
IMG_0344.JPG
this step is very easy. you just remove the cardboard/ paper from the camera and pry open the two plastic pieces that make the housing for the camera. do not throw them away though, I ended up using them for the housing of the stun gun although you could buy a project box from Radio Shack and it would probably work better.

Step 3: Remove the circuitry

the only thing (other than the covers if you are going to use them to build the housing) you need from the camera is the circuitry. when you remove it from the plastic it is mounted on be very careful not to touch any metal parts on it. make sure the camera has the large capacitor, but if it has flash it should have this. next step soldering.

Step 4: Removing the light bulb

behind the cover for the flash there should be a thin glass cylinder that is about 2 cm long and is connected to two copper leads on either end of it. use a soldering iron to melt the solder connecting the cylinder to the leads, and remove it. Be sure not to damage the leads in the process.

Step 5: Connect wires to the copper leads

the copper leads that used to be connected to the light bulb will be where the two wires of the actually stunning part are attached. take two insolated wires, and strip them up to about 1 cm on both ends. twist one end around the copper leads, and solder it to the copper lead. do this for both of the wires. make sure the ends of the wires that are not connected to the copper leads are left alone. do not connect them to anything. you will touch the item you want to taze to these exposed wires.

Step 6: Connect extra leads

on the camera that I used there were two pieces of metal that went to the shutters that were not connected. using a wire about 5 cm long stripped about 1 cm on both ends you should twist one end around one piece of metal, and the other end around the other piece of metal. once you twist them around solder the wire to the two extra leads. Once this is done, you are done soldering.

Step 7: Testing

Picture of testing
to make sure it works, go to an area with no flammable items, put in the battery charge the flash, and holding a coin in pliers touch it to the two exposed lead, and you should see a large spark, hear a loud click, and then see two burn marks on the coin where it touched the two wires.

Step 8: Making the housing

I used the two covers originally on the camera to make the housing, but you could make housing out of anything plastic (so long as it is an insulator it is OK). drill a hole where you would like the stunning wires to come out, and feed the wires through this hole. glue the circuit board coponent side up and line up the flash buttons on the circuit board and the front cover. glue it down tightly enough that you can press the flash button on the front cover and hear it click on the board. you can cover the covers in duck tape to make them look better. after this you are finished.
CR15P331 year ago
once while taking one of these cameras apart my finger touched the capacitor and it knocked me on the ground and momentarily paralyzed me.
Higgs Boson (author)  CR15P331 year ago
The shocks from these can be pretty painful (I have experienced it myself), but I have never heard of any of them having enough power to do that. Do you remember the specs on the capacitor? I am curious to know them.
no sorry, but I do remember the box saying somthing about "super flash."
hope this helps.
ilpug2 years ago
Is this thing practical for self defense?
Higgs Boson (author)  ilpug2 years ago
probably but I wouldn't count on it, because you would need to wait for the flash to charge, and although it does have a high voltage it doesn't have a high voltage compared to a real stun gut. I don't know how much current it has, so I wouldn't use it on anybody. Not to mention I have only discharged it into metallic objects. I don't know what would happen if you shocked a person with it.
Well, hook it up to a multimeter. Measure both the amperage and the voltage.

If it rates at High voltage with low amperage, then it is probably safe for defense use.

Maybe.

Ask an expert.
Higgs Boson (author)  ilpug2 years ago
I need to make another. I busted my first one. besides I don't have a multimeter. I am pretty confident that it is safe, but still do not ever use it on anything that is alive (or flammable).
You've built the things you've built without a multimeter?????
You're amazing.
Well, get a multimeter!

If I make this, I will for sure test the volts/amps and post it here, but I can't promise anything.
Higgs Boson (author)  ilpug2 years ago
Okay.
freeza363 years ago
too bad you broke the original
freeza363 years ago
I cant help but wonder if you could make one out of an electric flyswatter. And i also heard that 330v doesn't hurt all that much.
Higgs Boson (author)  freeza363 years ago
Maybe not but would you want to get shocked with three times the total output of a wall outlet?
made something like this about 6 to 7 years back but used the flash off of an old and what used to be expensive camera reusable had it rigged to only charge the capacitor when i was ready and used the 9 volt batter connectors and attached the outputs to those so you did not have to worry about loose wires and it would gouge out metal. been thinking about making another one.
ironsmiter3 years ago
seeing that nickle... i wonder if 2-3 parrallel units could do some battery tab spot welding... hmm
Higgs Boson (author)  ironsmiter3 years ago
Yeah the capacitor had a capacity of 330v so with a few parallel units would do some damage.