Step 10: Potentiometer Control

Using a piece of plastic card, I made a shaft between the potentiometer and the cork. All was glued with instant glue.

I would recommend to find a potentiometer with bigger shaft so you won't have to do the trick with the plastic shaft.
<p>Nice .... Good idea</p>
might try this, although I would use a higher power Led and would probably silver the enclosure
also might want to get a buck converter to regulate current
Love the half bottles cut high like you did,they look so much better than the Mason jars that you see a lot of people using.Did you consider using the small candle type bulbs,or was the LEDs always your intention?
One oh the best instructables ever seen!!! <br>Just some question that may help me understand the whole thing: what did you use to join the 4 ligths cables with the regulation one? Did you use some kind of external box joined to the ceiling? And, OK for the phone charger, but how did you bring the CC to the ceiling? Thanks in advance for your answers (and be patient with my poor english...).
Hi! <br> <br>I used just two pieces of shrink tube. I soldered all connections on one spot, then put the shrink tube on top and heated a bit with a lighter. <br> <br>And all the lights and cables are hanging on a piece of wood attached to the pipe that is the exhaust pipe from the flat heating system - this is a plastic NOT hot pipe. <br> <br>What do you mean by CC?
I've done it!!! Tnx Kukubee for inspiration. I've followed your instructions for the electrical side of your Instructable. But I've put together some IKEA (God always bless them) stuff to build the rest. In the pictures you see how it looks like.
Sorry, &quot;CC&quot; is the italian for &quot;DC&quot; current.
Awesome idea, I love it. <br>I did something similar using coke bottles and colored water check it out on my page!
Super cool! I'm totally going to get down with this instructable!
seriously.....awesome.. <br> <br>but, could you incorporate this http://www.instructables.com/id/Phone-line-powered-flashlight/ into the design??
That would make it run on free energy. I have never thought about this, thanks for sharing :)
Nicely done!I cheated and bought pre-wired led arrays from AllelectronicsI also used some Japanese soda bottles that were already pretty decorative so I skipped a lot of steps but still came out well.
I'd love to see how you made it! Post a picture in the reply here.
Awesome!! Very Creative and nicely explained.
Lovely and brilliant. It bothers me that you didn't sand down the edges - sooner or later someone will pay for that skipped step. <br> <br>So, next time, just use an emery board if you don't have sandpaper handy. From your manicure in one of your shots, I'm betting you have some of those around!
neat bananas
I love this!!! I've got some bottles that I love the shapes of....this would be an awesome way to enjoy them! <br> <br>Very well-written Instructable!
HA!!! The cork dimmer-power is a fantastic idea!! <br>thanks for sharing!
Thanks! Please vote for me in the contests that I have entered if you liked the instructable. <br>:)
Thank you, kukubee! My vote is yours.
done! <br>with pleasure.. :D <br>
If other Half of the bottle sticked and bottle filled with soap water, it glow as frosted (milky) bulb. May become more useful.
Hi, I tried to do this to see how it looks. The result is like light through milk.
Nice instructable! Thanks for sharing. I have a few phone chargers and would like to build small grow LED lamps. Could you answer some questions? 1.Can I use red LEDs or should I add more red ones in parallel due to the fact that voltage drop is lower across a red LED?2. If I remove a potentiometer, should I substitute it with a 8K2 resistior?
Hi! <br> <br>You can put red LEDs instead of the white ones, this is not a problem. A problem could come if you wish to mix different colours (and use this schematic that I use) because they have different voltage drop. If you mix colours each LED should have its own limiting resistor. <br> <br>Best way is to put some resistor, say 2kOhms and power the LEDs with 5V DC. If they burn right away, put a bigger resistor. Then measure what current flows through one individual LED and choose such resistor to limit the current to around 15mA. Overcurrent may damage the LED and it will shorten its life. <br> <br>If you wish to remove the potentiometer, remove the 8.2kOhm resistor below it too. Leave only a resistor between the supply and the chain of LEDs - I think around 1-2kOhms. Experiment with bigger values of resistors and measure current, then try different resistors. <br> <br>Any other questions, please ask me!
A great project and well documented. Using a tile/marble saw I was able to cut jaegermiester bottles and the water lubed 10&quot; blade made smooth cuts. The green glass is appealing. <br> <br>A great Instructable! Thank you.
I made some comments on the safety aspects BUT that does NOT mean I do not like what you did! <br> <br>
sooner or later some-one will bump their head or hand against the 'cut' edge..................will the nail polish really prevent a cut? <br> <br>Does it HAVE to be RED?! {lol]
Ohhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh <br> <br>PLEASE use a plastic or rubber grommet !!! to protect the wire from being cut by wearing against the metal cap! OR use a plastic cap.
from http://sound.westhost.com/pots.htm#pwr_volt <br> <br>A pot with a power rating of (say) 0.5W will have a maximum voltage that can exist across the pot before the rating is exceeded. All power ratings are with the entire resistance element in circuit, so maximum dissipation reduces as the resistance is reduced (assuming series or &quot;two terminal&quot; rheostat wiring). <br> <br> <br>Material Manufacturing Method Common uses Power (Typ) <br>Carbon Deposited as a carbon composition ink on an insulating (usually a phenolic resin) body Most common material, especially for cheap to average quality pots. Has a reasonable life, and noise level is quite acceptable in most cases. (DC should not be allowed to flow through any pot used for audio control) 0.1 to 0.5W <br>Cermet Ceramic/metal composite, using a metallic resistance element on a ceramic substrate High quality trimpots, and some conventional panel mount types (not very common). Low noise, and high stability. Relatively limited life (200 operations typical for trimpots) 0.25 to 2W <br>(or more) <br>Conductive Plastic Special impregnated plastic material with well controlled resistance characteristics High quality (audiophile and professional) pots, both rotary and linear (slide). Excellent life, low noise and very good mechanical feel 0.25 to 0.5W <br>Wire wound Insulating former, with resistance wire wound around it, and bound with adhesive to prevent movement High power and almost indefinite life. Resistance is &quot;granular&quot;, with discrete small steps rather than a completely smooth transition from one resistance winding to the next. Low noise, usually a rough mechanical feel. 5 to 50W <br>(or more) <br>Bear in mind that the above list is a rough guide only,
I am not too sure how long the 'pot' will last - - the current might be a bit high.
This is excellent, keep it up
Loved this one! Will be doing this one very soon!
Nice! If you post pictures of your bottle LED lights here in the comments you will get a pro membership code from me as a reward!
Great Idea, I think the LED lights I have available in my town, kind of blow. <br>Making my own, might be the better route. <br>
One of the things I worked out, because I usually tend to hate the bullshit with the current regulation circuits, and the fact they can cost like $20 to limit the power to $5 worth of LED's is this:<br> <br> IF you operate LED's at their maximum voltage, they go into thermal run-away, where their resistance drops off and &quot;unlimited current&quot; flows through them and they burn out.<br> <br> But - and here is the clever bit, LED's have their own inherent resistance, which is voltage dependant, AND when they are UNDER driven on the basis of voltage, their own resistance, limits the current flow.<br> <br> The under driving means that they are only a little less bright, than when driven at maximum voltage and current - as their discernable brightness is only slightly brighter, than when self limited, through their own resistance.<br> <br> The self limiting works like this (in simple terms).<br> <br> Assuming we have say 10V and for the purposes, or as far as the LED's are concerned, we also have unlimited amps.<br> <br> We have 5 LED's all rated at a maximum voltage of say 2V.<br> <br> The theoretical natural electroharmoic is to run 5 LED's in series to give the maximum power through them, but this gives them too much electrical pressure and the current flows through them with very little resistance - and without current limiting, in the form of a resistor or a power supply, they burn out.<br> <br> The ideal situation is to run them at about 80 - 85% of their natural peak voltage, which simply means adding some more LED's in series, to increase the natural resistance of the circuits, and to keep the LED's below their thermal run away point - where the resistance drops off and they burn out.<br> <br> So if we increase the amount of LED's from 5 in series, to 8 in series, each will then be driven at 80% of their rated maximum voltage.<br> <br> This way, they are only discernably less bright and they now last almost forever, and you avoid the hassles of complex current regulators, and wasted power with resistors.<br> <br> The other benefit is that while they are running &quot;slightly less bright&quot; - is that there are MORE LED's providing the light.<br> <br> You can vary the string, from each LED getting about 80% of the voltage, by adding or decreasing the amount of LED's in the string, in this case, by one.<br> <br> An extra LED will start to dim the string, and one less LED will brighten the output, but I'd say that increasing the voltage per LED, from about 80%, to 90% will start to put the LED's into the area of thermal run away - and thus they unshine.<br> <br> But about dividing the voltage to about 80 - 85% seems ideal.<br> <br> If you cannot get fairly accurate voltage division, and one LED either way, will either lower the voltage between them to about 75% or up to about 90% or higher, then go the lower divided percentage.<br> <br> Beyond about 75% divided voltage they start to dim a fair bit...... but there are more LED's - but there is also a threshold when the lighting is for a necessary application like ones study desk etc.<br> <br> The only thing to be careful of, is to have a reasonably stable voltage as the supply, for instance if you have a lead acid battery, hooked directly up to a SMALL solar panel (LED lighting only - or you boil your battery dry quite quickly) , with no voltage regulation - and simply use a blocking diode on that circuit, then your voltage can rise to about 17V (or higher) and you might be running your lights off that, with your LED's holding stable on say 14V divided into about 90% of the available peak voltage of the LED's, from the battery, and the increased voltage in the circuit from the panel, can drive the LED's into thermal run away.<br> <br> The other idea is to have a day and night switch to switch in an extra string of LED's for the day lighting, and to switch them out for night use, on the primary lighting string of LED's.
What about using plastic bottles? Its easy and safe. I'm sure we can find enough beauty bolttles :-)
Yeah, and easy to cut and .... maybe heat bend also? That's the option for those that don't want to mess with glass.
Excellent all around. Great 'ible, with great results. <br> <br>The LEDs could put off more light if you buff them up with sand paper first. Maybe on the next set.
They can not give off more light. You can DIFFUSE the light.
Thanks for the advice, I never knew this.
Indeed, the light amount is the same, but is more diffused all around, more like classic incandescent bulbs. Also you can find diffused LEDs ready for use (look for &quot;frozen&quot;, &quot;milk&quot; and &quot;diffused&quot; LEDs). <br>Your LED luminaries act more like spot lights, so you have good light under them. <br>I did the same in my kitchen, used 36 LED for each spot, parallelizing 12 series of 3 white LEDs to use existing halogen lamps 12V power supply. Current limiting resistor needed of course.
Sorry, I forgot: Very very very nice instructable. <br>Like both the bottles and the (lovely) cork switch! <br>BTW, how you solved the sharp borders problem ?
Thanks, what I will do is try to buff the LEDs now as they are soldered already. <br> <br>I actually tried to diffuse some of the light to the sides by bending the LEDs just while soldering. So they are soldered a bit sideways and emit to the side. <br> <br>The sharp edges you ask - well I have not sanded them to make them safer, what I did is to put nail polish on the edge. This makes it better in two ways. 1st you see the edge, 2nd you paint over the sharp bit slightly. I know this is not the correct way, but I am doing this for the first time and I have never worked with glass ... it is safer to give the bottles to an experienced glass cutter I would say.
Love your photos. For me, the cork switch takes the show. That's just smooth work. Two thumbs up to you!
Thank you, I'm glad you and the others like the cork switch.
Very nice project. Great look !! <br>As maybolicious requested do you have any information on how you connected the 4 lights, switch and power adapter? <br>The instructable was great and well written. Just missing that one part. <br>Thanks and again Great Job !!
Thanks for the thumbs up! <br> <br>I have what you are asking about on step four. If you don't understand how to read/ implement these schematics, then look at what I have answered to &quot;maybolicious&quot; below. I think I have explained it there. Still, if you need more info I can try and draw something by hand.

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Bio: I am a huge fan of chocolate!
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