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One standard lenghth cat. 5 ethernet cable
The stock cat. 5 cable of your desired length
Pin nose pliers
Electrical tape
knife of some sort.
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The problem you run into with CATV cable at great distances is that after so many feet, the signal becomes weak. when this happens, you might as well have signed up for dial-up internet. you see After so many feet when the signal starts to drop off, you need an amplifier that makes the signal carry on longer. The same thing goes for Coaxial Cable. except the signal dropoff is more sever with COAX.
First, don't plug this into any network that you don't personally control without permission. That kind of splice is extremely susceptible to interference, potentially causing packet corruption, which can screw up not only your connection, but possibly those of other people on the network. Modern equipment is better at filtering out bad packets than the older stuff, but it can still cause unpredictable issues that are hard to track down. If you use one of these in your dorm room don't be surprised if you suddenly find that your network connection has been shut off. Also don't be surprised if your network throughput goes to heck since interference will mangle your packets and they may have to be resent several times.
Second, the length limit for wired ethernet connections is 100m. (64 byte-times multiplied by the speed of electricity through copper.) This includes any cable that may be in the wall between you and the network switch. Attaching a long cable that puts the total length over this distance will cause what are called "late collisions" which can potentially bring down large segments of the network and are very difficult to track down.
Your best bet is usually to go down to the nearest Home Depot equivalent where they sell bulk communications cable and get whatever length you need along with a crimper and a box of plugs. You can probably earn enough making custom-length cords for your friends to pay for the tools.
Your second-best bet is to get one of the splice connectors that let you plug a cable into each end and just hook your two cables together. The connectors usually cost less than a dollar.
If you find you _must_ splice a cable in this manner, keep the amount you untwist it as short as possible (about a centimetre if you're dexterous) and solder the wires together, preferably without twisting them around each other. Then polish the solder joints to assure that there are no sharp points which will emit and pick up interference. Then coat each joint individually with fingernail polish and wrap it in electrical tape. Then borrow a cable tester and see how good a job you did. If it meets Cat3 standards, then it will handle 10MB/s. Cat5 will handle 100MB/s. Higher than that should be capable of gigabit. Set the speed of your network card accordingly.
I have many of those customers.
I like them the mess makes my bills every month.
There is a right way to do it with out short cutting.
I specialize in IT and what you did would not increase the resale value of your house/business. Doing the job right does.
An inspector seeing that would red tag you and until it was fixed right would prevent you from resale or occupancy.
Now you say its low voltage... right and no license is required to do the work but an inspector is not looking at what KINDA wire it is just if it looks professionally done and safe. Again since I have a business doing this I have to work with the Building and Fire marshal and many times they have no idea what computer cable is so I have a time to explain with a CODE book that they are wrong and why.
You meant to say- Longer the untwisted length, the worse your connection.
-Tyler
I have seen runs up to 1000' that are in use.
The Fluke fails it since not one part is to spec but connectivity wise it will work.
100M is not possible to the equipment.
10M works but not well.
the customers site has many of these and experiences so many dropped resent packets that productivity is no existent.
Use fibre if you need to go more then 300'
I have used switches/hubs as extenders in a pinch every 320' . The customer paid nearly the same as if they would have installed fibre. But the on site Tech could replace a switch/hub when one went bad.
JESUS WILL LAUGH AT YOU!
I twisted all the wires. The connection kept getting off. I discovered that a small twist of the green wires and the connection would come on again. After many twists and turns the wire broke. When I stripped the wire (green) and tried to make a connection by twisting, it failed to work. I was peeling the wires with a razor blade and I thought why not touch the wires to the blade and it being a metal would complete the connection. And it did. The strange part starts now. The connection comes off many times and all I need to do is touch the 2 ends of the green wire to the blade and the connection comes back on. After it is on the green wires need not be connected. So the green wires stay disconnected but whenever the connection turns off I have to retouch the green wires to the blade.to get the connection. Whenever I switch off/on my lights or fan the connection comes off but all I need to do is to touch the green wires to the blade and the connection is back on. What is happening over here? Any way I can get a more stable connection till I can get a new wire? Please help.
BUTT (yes its a big but) Never use this for permanent connection.