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UPDATE 12 APRIL 2011
Important! I have been made aware of a problem with the circuit board design with respect to the two push buttons. In order to get the buttons to work properly you need to connect them to the expansion port instead of the designated player select and mode button connections on the circuit board. Connect them to PIN D and PIN E on the expansion port. You will then need to connect a resistor from PIN D to GND and then another resistor from PIN E to GND. Finally, you will need to connect the other side of each button to VCC. This will make sure that when the buttons are not pressed, that you have a logic 0 at the microcontroller input (for that button) and then you will get a logic 1 when the button is pressed. If there are any hassles, just post a message here.

Okay scratch that - I have updated the circuit board and everything is working as advertised (and as written on the circuit board) Boards can be purchased direct from iteadstudio for $3 - link is in the instructable.


UPDATE 12 APRIL 2011
The circuit boards are now for sale direct from the manufacturer. They are $3 each. Also, the manufacturer is looking into how much it would cost to sell the boards with all pcb components as a kit. I will keep you updated. You can find the link to purchase a circuit board in STEP 1. Otherwise you can still make your own because all files are included in this instructable.

UPDATE 11 APRIL 2011
I have just received an email from the PCB manufacturer (iteadstudio) to let me know that the first batch of Super Pong Table circuit boards is complete and will be available for purchase very soon. They will be around $3 each from their website (I will provide the link once I have it)

UPDATE 10 April 2011
I have just released the sourcode for the 'Knockout' version of this game. This new version sees players battle it out to keep in as many balls as possible. There are no points for hitting a ball BUT you do lose a point for missing a ball - if you miss 20 balls, you are knocked out of the game and your 'bat' is replaced with a solid wall. The remaining players are then left to battle on. The last player standing wins!

You can download the latest version of the sourcecode in step 1.



Hello and welcome to another Bradsprojects instructable.

Are you tired of your old boring coffee table? Do you dream of a coffee table that allows you play games as well as keep your coffee cup off the ground?

Well dream no longer - because such a coffee table is here and you can build one for yourself.

Introducing Super Table Pong. no doubt you have seen the many variations of the classic game 'Pong', well this coffee table takes that game just that little bit further by allowing you to play up to four players at once with 5 balls on the screen at a time. It's a fast paced - action packed game of mayhem!

Here is a short youtube video of the game in action. (I have removed the top glass for video clarity)



Knockout Edition (This version is more fun than the original. A player is knocked out of the game if they miss 20 balls)

The Game
Each player uses an old atari paddle controller to move their respective 'bat' to the left and right of screen. The game starts with five balls in the middle of the screen moving outwards towards the players bats. Each ball moves at a different speed and at different angles to one another. When a ball approaches a player, that player needs to move their bat in order to intercept the ball and make it bounce back in the opposite direction. If the player does not get their bat there in time and the ball happens to go past the player, then that ball will re-appear in the center of the screen.

So how do you win?
If the player hits the ball, they are awarded one point, however if the player misses a ball, they lose one point. The first player to reach 20 Points wins the game and they will be presented with a 'YOU WIN' fireworks animation.

Technical Details
The game is powered by an 8-bit microcontroller (PIC18f4550) running at 8MHz. The display consists of 900 LED's arranged in a 30 x 30 matrix. (I originally designed it to have 1024 LED's, which would make it a 32 x 32 LED matrix. The LED's on each outside edge would have been a different color I.E. one side would have been green, then blue, white and orange) Long story short, the extra LED's that I ordered didn't arrive in time which has restricted mt to just 900 red LED's.

The four controllers are analog controllers taken out of the old Atari 2600 game system. You twist them clockwise / counter-clockwise to move your respective bat on the LED display. The circuit requires very little power and can be run off 4 AA batteries for more than 2 months if played for 30 mins each day.

Future Updates

I would like to say a huge thankyou for all of your comments and suggestions. I do have plans to improve on this project to make it into a much more enjoyable game. I am currently updating the circuit board design and schematic to include an expansion port which will allow for all manner of future improvements such as extra buttons and an LCD display for each player.

Thoughts for future updates:
  • Balls moving at more random speeds and angles
  • ability to select the number of balls on screen at once
  • computer player
  • scores will be displayed on an lcd display
  • add an arcade style button for each player giving them the ability to 'shoot' other players to take points off them
  • different color LED's for the players bats (rather than just red)
  • if a player loses a certain amount of points they are knocked out of the game - the last man standing wins.
 
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Step 1: Tools, parts and downloads.


First things first, you will need to get your parts together.

This instructable is not for the faint hearted. It does require an understanding of electronics, ability to solder surface mount components and perhaps some fault finding skills should you're circuit not work correctly for one reason or another.

I have included a ZIP file containing the Schematic, sourcecode, hex file and PCB layout so you have everything that you need to build the circuit. You can download the ZIP file below:

This download was updated Friday 1st April 2011 at 11:50PM AEST

http://www.bradsprojects.com/forum/download/file.p...


Here is the new Super Pong Table Knockout game. (This file includes the sourcecode and hex file - you will still need the previous zip file for schematics, pcb layout etc...)
http://www.bradsprojects.com/forum/download/file.php?id=934

If you wish to do so, you can purchase a Super Pong Table circuit board from ITEADSTUDIO for $3 each:
http://imall.iteadstudio.com/open-pcb/bare-open-pcb/im121017003.html

The files included in the archive are

  • PCB Gerber files - these are so you can make your own circuit boards - you will need gerb magic to view these files
  • Diptrace PCB design file - You will need diptrace to view this file, diptrace is my PCB editing program
  • Diptrace Schematic file - you will need diptrace to view this file, diptrace is also my schematic editing program
  • SuperPongTableVer2PCBBottom- This is an image file to show you what the board looks like
  • SuperPongTableVer2PCBTop - This is an image file to show you what the board looks like
  • Readme_1st.txt - This file contains information on the current release of the zip file
  • SuperPongTableVER1.bas - this is the sourcecode, you will need swordfish basic to open / edit it.
  • SuperPongTableVER1.hex - this is the hex file that you need to copy to your microcontroller
  • SuperPongTableVer2Schematic.PNG - this is the full schematic in an image file

Required software for the above files

Swordfish Basic
http://www.sfcompiler.co.uk/swordfish/download/index.html

Diptrace
http://www.diptrace.com/download.php

GerbMagic
http://www.bronzware.com/GerbMagic/Download.htm

You will be able to purchase a Super Pong Table Circuit Board from iteadstudio from around the 15th of April 2011 (they are in the process of making them) They tell me the boards will be approx $3 each
http://iteadstudio.com/store/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=19_21


Parts:

900 LED's (less than $30 if you buy in bulk on bay)
30 x 100 ohm resistors
8 x 74373 Chips
4 x ULN2803 Chips
1 x PIC18f4550 Microcontroller
1 x 7805 Regulator
2 x 10uF capacitors
3 x 10k ohm resistors
2 x push buttons
4 x Atari paddle controllers
1 x 4AA battery holder
4 x AA Batteries
1 x slide switch
61cm x 53cm x 9mm Sheet of MDF (for the table top)
61cm x 53cm x 3mm Sheet of MDF (to surround the glass)
2 lengths of 55cm x 10mm x 40mm pine
2 lengths of 63cm x 10mm x 40mm pine
45cm x 38cm x 3mm glass
40mm x 40mm x 180cm Pine
1 Metre length of Mains wire
1 Metre length of Network cable
Roll of enamel wire
Box of Screws
Paint (If you want to make it look pretty)
Hot melt glue sticks
Electrical Tape
Solder
Solder Wick (if you make a soldering mistake)
Flux (recommended for pcb soldering but not essential)

Tools:

PIC Programmer
Drill
5mm Drill bit (for the LED's)
2mm Drill bit (for pre-drilling the screws)
Soldering Iron
Side Cutters
philips screwdriver
Pliers
Hot melt glue gun
Jigsaw
Circular saw (not essential as you could use the jigsaw for all cuts)
pencil
ruler
hammer
sharp spike (to punch guide holes into the MDF wood)
sharp knife / scalpel

Step 2: Cut the wood to size.

Picture of Cut the wood to size.
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We need to cut our pieces of wood to size.

  1. Cut your 9mm and 3mm sheets of MDF to 61cm x 53cm (see first photo)
  2. Cut your 10mm x 40mm pine at a 45 degree angle into two lengths of 55cm and two lengths of 63cm at the longest edge (see second photo)
  3. Cut your 40mm x 40mm pine into four lengths of 45cm (see third photo)
  4. Mark out and cut the inner 45cm x 38cm of the 3mm MDF - you can mark this out with your glass.(see fourth photo)

Step 3: Mark out and drill the LED holes

Picture of Mark out and drill the LED holes
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I hope you enjoy long tedious tasks, if so then you are going to love this step!
  1. First up, mark out the inner 45cm x 38cm rectangle so we know where the glass will sit over the top of. (see first photo)
  2. Next up, you need to mark out a square in the center of the wood that is 29cm x 29cm - this will equate to our 30 LED's x 30 LED's - please note that I originally designed this around 32 x 32 LED's, but because my parts did not arrive in time, I had to cut it back to 30 x 30 (see second photo)
  3. Mark out 1cm increments inside your square then rule lines between them (see third photo)
  4. Using your hammer and spike, you need to go around to all 900 (that's right, 900) cross sections and hammer in some guide holes that we will use to help keep our drill in the correct spot when drilling (see fourth and fifth photo)
  5. Now drill all those holes with your drill and 5mm drill bit. (see sixth photo)

Step 4: Install the LED's

Picture of Install the LED's
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Open up your bags of LED's and start stickin' them in the holes!

Make sure they all face in a common direction. I.E. every long leg is facing the same way. You will want to double check this once you are finished, otherwise you could have problems.

Step 5: Solder the LED matrix.

Picture of Solder the LED matrix.
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Once the LED's have been placed in to position, it is time to solder them together into a matrix.
  1. Get your mains wire and strip it open until you get down to the individual strands. This is what we will use to connect the anodes together into rows and then the cathodes into columns. You will need 60 lengths in all (thirty rows by thirty columns) - (see first photo)
  2. Solder one end of one strand of wire to the end of the bottom row of Anodes. then weave this strand in and out of the rest of the anodes in this row until you get to the other end - this will hold the wire into position ready for soldering MAKE SURE YOU PUSH THE WIRES DOWN ALMOST TO THE BOTTOM - WE NEED TO LEAVE ROOM FOR THE CATHODES WHICH WILL RUN OVER THE TOP OF THE ANODES. (see second photo)
  3. Solder each of the remaining anodes in this row to the strand of wire. (see third photo)
  4. Cut the overhanging legs off the LED's (see fourth photo)
  5. Repeat this for the remaining 29 rows of Anodes! (see fifth photo)
  6. Now do this same process for the cathodes but run these 90 degrees to the anodes (I.E. so running left to right will be the anodes, then running top to bottom will be the cathodes.) YOU NEED TO MAKE SURE THE ANODES DO NOT TOUCH THE CATHODES, MAKE SURE THAT THE CATHODES ARE UP HIGHER THAN THE ANODES. (see sixth photo)

Step 6: Fix the Side lengths of wood to the Display.

Picture of Fix the Side lengths of wood to the Display.
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To give the LED's some protection, we can now fix the side pieces of wood to the display.

Make sure you leave a 3mm Gap ontop of the surface of the display because we still need the glass and 3mm MDF sheet of wood to mount in there. (see second photo)

Also make sure you pre-drill your holes first before screwing in to avoid splitting the wood.

Step 7: Solder the components to the circuit board and program

Picture of Solder the components to the circuit board and program
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Now this is more my thing... SOLDERING!
  1. Start out with the hardest component - the microcontroller, I like to solder two diagonally opposite pins first to make sure it is aligned, then continue with the rest. (see first photo)
  2. Solder in the eight surface mount 74373 chips. Make sure you have them aligned correctly I.E. the indents should line up with the indents that are printed on the PCB. (see second photo)
  3. Now you can solder in the resistors - all 30 of them (see third photo)
  4. Next up are the four ULN2803 chips (see fourth photo)
  5. Then you can solder in the 7805, capacitors and the 10k resistor (see fifth photo)
  6. And Finally, you can connect up your programmer to the ICSP port and program the hex file onto the microcontroller.

Step 8: Mount the circuit board and solder to the matrix.

Picture of Mount the circuit board and solder to the matrix.
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Fire up your hot melt glue and glue the PCB to the underside of the table.

PLEASE NOTE, I FIRST GLUED IT IN THE MIDDLE TO ONE END OF THE BOARD AND THEN HAD TO MOVE IT BECAUSE I NEEDED TO DRILL A HOLE THERE TO MOUNT THE PADDLE CONTROLLER. SO DON'T MAKE THE SAME MISTAKE THAT I DID! MAKE SURE YOU MOUNT THE PCB AS PER THE SECOND PHOTO.

The cathodes will need the network cable wires to connect them because they require more current, the anodes however can just use the thin enamel wire (this is because we turn on an entire column of cathodes at once which means it may need to handle the current of 30 LED's at once.)

The first photo shows The board mounted to the underside of the table. I simply applied some hot melt glue to each of the four corners. The Solder pads on the left hand side of the photo are for the cathodes. The circuit can handle upto 32 columns of cathodes but since this project only uses 30, you only need to connect the bottom 30. Just start from the bottom and work your way up (I.E. The bottom PCB connection goes to the bottom column of LED cathodes then the next one up, goes to the next one up etc...)

The second photo shows the LED Anodes connected to the top part of the PCB. Again the PCB connections simply line up with the LED's (I.E. the very right row of LED Anodes connects to the very right PCB solder pad. Also, this circuit can handle up to 32 rows of LED anodes but we are only using 30, so all you need to do is start from the right, work your way to the left and leave the last two pads on the PCB alone.


Step 9: Install the Analog Controllers.

Lets get into the controllers!

Grab your four Atari controllers and open them up with a philips screwdriver. (there are just two screws)

Take off the back cover and you will find a button and potentiometer inside. De-solder the wires from the potentiometer, unscrew the potentiometer and remove it from it's housing. (see second photo)

Repeat this for the remaining three controllers.

Now we need to drill some holes to mount these potentiometers into. (The third photo explains it all)

Once you have your holes drilled, you will want to mount your potentiometers in the holes and glue in place with some hot melt glue. Do this for all four potentiometers. (see fourth photo)

Once they are in place, you need to solder three wires to each.If we use the potentiometer nearest the circuit board as a reference: (see fifth photo)
  • Top connection = +5v
  • Middle Connection = player connection
  • Bottom Connection = Ground
A tiny bit of theory behind this is that between the entire resistance of the potentiometer there is +5v. When we turn the potentiometer dial we are moving the middle connection closer to +5v or closer to Ground. so in effect we are changing the voltage on the middle connector and this is what gives us our position for the onscreen bat.

Anyway, If you then follow these connections around to the bottom potentiometer, we now have:
  • Left connection = +5v
  • Middle connection = player connection
  • Right connection = Ground
and then follow this same rule for the next two. If you do get +5v and ground around the wrong way, you won't damage anything. Your bat will simply move in the opposite direction to the way you turn it. If this is the case, just switch the GND and +5v connections and you will fix it!

You then need to connect the potentiometers to the circuit board. They are labelled on the board so it quite straight forward. (see fifth and sixth photo's)


And once all of that is done, you can now install your control knobs to the top side of the table. (see seventh photo)



Step 10: Install the two push buttons.

Picture of Install the two push buttons.
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These two buttons are used to select which mode the table will operate in and also to select how many players will play the game.

PLEASE NOTE, IN MY ORIGINAL PCB DESIGN (WHICH IS THE ONE I AM CURRENTLY WORKING WITH IN THIS INSTRUCTABLE) I FORGOT TO PUT SOLDER PADS FOR THESE BUTTONS IN. THE REVISED PCB DOES INCLUDE PADS FOR THIS STEP THOUGH.)

Firstly you need to get some hot melt glue and glue the buttons to the underside of the table preferably near the edge for easy access. (see first photo)

Once done, you will need to solder one 10k ohm resistor to one leg of each button. (this will not be required with the new PCB) (see first photo) The other side of each resistor goes to +5v

The other connection on the same side of the button goes to ground.

Finally, the connection on the other side of the button opposite the resistor goes to PORTC pin 0 (for one of the buttons) and then PORTC pin 1 for the other. It does not matter which button goes where

Once again, this will be much simpler once I get the new boards in and I will update the instructable accordingly.

Step 11: Tidy Up

Picture of Tidy Up

it's nice to be clean, so get some electrical tape and tape down those wires!

Step 12: Mount the power switch and battery pack.

Picture of Mount the power switch and battery pack.
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Since this table draws very little current, you can easily power it with four AA batteries.

Infact, if you powered this with four 2500mAh rechargeable batteries and played for half an hour a day, everyday - the batteries would last you over two months!

Get your hot melt glue gun out again and glue your battery holder to the underside of the table. Make sure you put it somewhere close to the PCB because there really is no reason to have to have long wires going everywhere. (see first photo)

Then, Solder your black (negative) wire to the -ve solder pad on the PCB (see second photo)

Then solder a wire from the positive terminal of the battery pack to one side of the switch. Also, solder a wire from the middle terminal of the switch - this will end up connecting to the +ve of our PCB. (see third photo)

Next, you need to solder the other end of that wire from the middle of the switch to the +ve circuit board pad (see fourth photo)

Now you can switch the game on and off!

Step 13: Give it some legs to stand on.

Picture of Give it some legs to stand on.

Now comes time for the legs.

Get your four 45cm Legs that you cut earlier and screw them into each of the four corners.

I used four screws for each leg - Don't forget to pre-drill !

Step 14: Add a splash of color.

Picture of Add a splash of color.

You may want to get a little creative here by painting your table to suite your personal style.

I had some paint in the shed so I simply used that to paint the 3mm MDF top piece (the part that surrounds the glass)

But by all means, feel free to go nuts!

Step 15: The completed table!

Picture of The completed table!
Are we really done!?

Flip the table the correct way up, pop the glass in and you're done! GOOD JOB!

Now it's time for testing and playing.

Step 16: Playing the Game.

Picture of Playing the Game.
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Instructions

  • Turn the Super Pong Table on via the power switch and you will be presented with the spinning "SUPER PONG TABLE" title screen.
  • Press the mode button to switch to the player selection screen. You can press the player select button here to cycle through one to four players. Arrows will point to which players will be playing. You can then press the mode button to start the game.
  • You will be presented with a countdown timer that counts from 9 down to 0. Once it reaches zero, the game will start.
  • The balls will start from the center of the screen and move outward. You then need to move your bat to intercept and hit the ball back in the opposite direction. If you miss it however, you will lose a point.
  • The first player to reach 20 points wins the game - and they will be presented with a "YOU WIN" animation.
  • You can then press the mode button to reset the game back to the title screen.
  • I have also programmed in a spinning star animation to act as a 'screensaver' to access this screensaver you just need to press the player select button while on the title screen. To exit, just press the mode button.

Well, that's it for this instructable. I do have plans to update and improve on this game in the future including things like:
  • Sound FX
  • Ability to shoot other players
  • Display an actual score
  • Computer players to control all non-human player bats
  • Make the ball speeds angles and start positions more random
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okay thanks. I bought those and all of the other parts on iteadstudio.com

another question. What is a good (hopefully cheap) pic programmer to buy that is compatible with that chip?

Thanks
nianri64 years ago
I just had an idea for the newest version of this table. Would it be possible to make it 3d? I was thinking that you could use 8 more 74373's, and connect them to another 30x30 matrix, then angle one matrix several degrees to the right and the other display several degrees to the left? It would probably be extremely expensive, but if it works it'd be well worth it. That probably wouldn't work with the pre-made matrices though. Just throwing that out there. The programming wouldn't need any adjustments though. The only thing I'm not sure on is that the spacing of the LEDs might not allow us to get the full effect, even if they were side by side.
bradsprojects (author)  nianri64 years ago
I'd certainly like to see someone make one of those, although I just wouldn't have the time to make that many myself.

Are you up for it?
If I can get this current version to work, I'm certainly going to try.
nianri64 years ago
I'm in the process of building this, and bought the circuit board last week. I was planning to use my buddy's PIC programmer to program the microcontroller, but for whatever reason, it isn't compatible with the 18f4550. Would I be able to buy a preprogrammed chip from you, or do you know of anywhere that could program it for me? I work mainly with analog circuits, so buying a PIC programmer would be a waste. This is a very cool project though.
bradsprojects (author)  nianri64 years ago
Hi sorry for the late reply.

I could do that for you although I would have to sell you both the board and the chip because I need to solder the microcontroller to the board in order to program it.

If you still want that done it will be $15 and then whatever postage is ontop of that.

Just let me know.

Cheers,

-brad
Ah, ok. I already bought one board, and as of right now I only plan on making one. I do have a few friends who were blown away by the idea of a table that could play pong though, so I may have a few to order in the future. I received the board today, I can't wait to start working on it. I read you were going to make a few other games for this table as well, would you be able to program a galaga type game?
bradsprojects (author)  nianri64 years ago
I am actually working on an RGB version of the display.

This version will be capable of much better games (because we have eight colours instead of just one)

I am unsure of when I will finish it due to time restraints.
Sounds cool man. Would there be a way to use this current version of the PCB with the RGB version?
bradsprojects (author)  nianri64 years ago
It will require a new circuit board because the displays I am using are pre-made and they have a serial interface.

The good news is that the circuit board is quite simplified with only a few components rather than a board full of components.
Oh, cool. Any idea on how much the new circuit board will be? And how much do the LED displays cost?
bradsprojects (author)  nianri64 years ago
The new board should only be $3 and all the parts for the board will be cheaper because it uses less.

However, the displays are quite expensive. It cost me $160 to get two 32x16 RGB displays all up with airmail.
I'll take a stab at making one then.
GameNox4 years ago
Where did you get the leds?
bradsprojects (author)  GameNox4 years ago
I buy my LED's on ebay in lots of 1000

If you do an ebay search for 1000pcs led and select lowest price first, you should come up with a whole heap of listings between about $20 and $30 (make sure you do a worldwide search because they are normally from China.
Ice14 years ago
I think you forgot to include the ICSP port as one of the materials you need. Can i ask what sort of ICSP port you used?
bradsprojects (author)  Ice14 years ago
You are correct! Thanks for letting me know.

I use the pickit2 programmer which accepts a 6 pin header connection (although only five are required for programming which is why I only have five on the board)
How can i use only 5 pins when the cable has 6? What do i do?
bradsprojects (author)  woofwoof29924 years ago
The sixth pin is not used for programming so I normally leave it out (because it would not actually connect to anything on the board) All you need to do is line up the arrow on the circuit board with the arrow on the pickit2
Where can I buy the following materials?
bradsprojects (author)  TechnicalMan01014 years ago
You can buy most of them from where I get my boards made (iteadstudio) You can then get the microcontroller direct from the microchip website.
Can you buy a lot of the supplies from the site where you get the board?
bradsprojects (author)  woofwoof29924 years ago
Yes, they can provide just about all required parts. I don't think they have the microcontroller but you can get them from microchip for around $5
Ice14 years ago
Just bought the PCB, i think i might modify it to make an RGB table, but before i start that I want to finish my 8x8x8 cube first :) BTW looks like a great price you got on those RGB displays! Looking forward to seeing those in action and to see some more of your great instructables :D
bradsprojects (author)  Ice14 years ago
I have seen some 8x8x8 cubes on youtube and they have some fantastic effects = )

As for the RGB Displays, I have found some smaller ones (perhaps not suited for use in a table) for only $95 with free shipping (for an RGB 32 x 32 pixel display)

I have been experimenting with my new displays and the games and graphics look pretty cool. I have so far made my own version of river raid and will include all sorts of other games - it will be a multi-purpose game table.

Hopefully others will make games of their own for it.

Be sure to let me know how your cube goes.
Wow awesome, didnt know you could get them that cheap.

Sweet! Be awesome to play pacman or something on it lols

Yeah will do :)
googlexx4 years ago
I saw that you said you are redesigning the circuit board and adding rgb leds. I want to make this project but I was wondering how close you were to adding that. I just didn't want to go out and buy everything and then you post a better version a week later :) If its not going to be for a while then i will surely build this today. Anyways let me know. Thanks!
bradsprojects (author)  googlexx4 years ago
Hi, glad to hear your interested in the project.

I have only just received the RGB LED displays (I bought two 16x32 pixel displays) these cost me $160 all up with free postage. Which is a good deal because it would cost more than that if you were to buy individual LED's and then build it yourself.

As such I haven't yet started on programming it. I am also going to make a whole heap of other games for it including Super Mario Bros.

So it will take me a while to get all this done, which gives you plenty of time to build the current version.

Are you building the circuit board yourself?
Brad, iv been trying to work out how to change the circuit board to allow for RGB LEDs but as i said im still pretty new to this stuff. I noticed that if i did add more 74373s I would run out of ports on the PIC and im a bit confused. If it may be a while before you release the new version I would sure appreciate a schematic for the new circuit board or even a rough draft up as I am very comfortable with programming and stuff. Thanks in advance!
bradsprojects (author)  Ice14 years ago
Hi,

All you need to do is get eight more 74373 chips (you already have four for the RED color, you then need four for GREEN and four for BLUE)

You connect everything up exactly the same as the four that are already there (I.E. gnd, vcc, eight data inputs and output enable)

The only connections that will be different are your outputs (which obviously go to the green and then blue LED's instead of red) also, the last connection that will be different is your latch enable. You will need eight separate connections here to the microcontroller - the good thing is that with the expansion port that I have added, there are 11 spare connections for you to use.

To sum it up, you still use the common data bus, but the only extra connections you need from the microcontroller is one latch enable connection for each chip (which makes eight latch connections)
chicopluma4 years ago
best coffe table ever, imagine an 8 player octagon
bradsprojects (author)  chicopluma4 years ago
Now that would be chaos!
KVFinn4 years ago
Is there a way to have have the LEDS use varying levels of brightness?

If you had more states for brightness, you could run the game internally at a higher resolution and then translate that into the low res grid, basically 'anti-aliasing'. The transitions from one LED to another would not be so jumpy, you'd get nice smooth motion.

There were MANY games made for the Atari VCS for four player with paddles. The best suited for this is called WarLords. Makes MUCH more sense than the super-pong. I still play it with my family once in a while.
Really impressive!

I don't have any experience with PIC's, I hope to get around playing with it. (Have the programmer and the chips, but I need to sit down and look at the software! (Linux))

Lastly, how does you avoid the insanity while soldering all of these 900 LED's? :D

...let's see. I have soldered 50, and I believe that I have 850 left...
...now it's just 820 left! wait, what?
... what?

That's mostly the reason I need to stay away from this project,
althought I really, really want a big LED-table who does weird stuff...
bradsprojects (author)  alfredhenriksen4 years ago
I am guessing that you are using picklab if you are using linux?

I started out with assembly programming and then more recently made the switch to basic which has really allowed me to branch out into projects that I couldn't have dreamed of making in asm = )

As for the LED's, it wasn't too bad because you are essentially doing it line by line.

The quick part was putting the LED's in the holes, then you need to get a length of wire and weave it through the LED anodes then solder it to every leg in one line. Then repeat that 63 times = )
Well... I got recently a Mini PICKIT 2. For several years ago I used my friend's Windows as the serialprogrammer didn't work in Linux. At that time the software was non-existant and I was a moron in programming. All I wanted to was put a asm-file into a PIC16C84!
I don't require a GUI or a IDE, but the programmer and software was usually tied together before (and costly) and that sucked. I tried to make some (http://www.jdm.homepage.dk/newpic.htm) but it didn't work. I need to sit down, look carefully into this mess, b/c I want to program some PIC's. :)

As of now I prefer to program AVR, it's "easier". avrdude is flexible.

Yet - it's still 63times! 1-2-3-4-5-6-7-8-9-10... whaaat?! :p
bradsprojects (author)  alfredhenriksen4 years ago
If you are interested, I have some pretty easy to follow pic tutorials on my website.

They are based around a chip very similar to the 16c84 (16f628a) And they are programmed in assembly language so they will work in piklab in linux
cool, thanks! I found sdcc and gputils and have installed these.
16f628a is better than 16[F|C]84 , but I have already a few 16F84's here.
I like asm, but I prefer to stay in C to save programming time,
as my time are limited. Read this a bad excuse for not wanting to learn something before it's absolute necesseary. You know how it's is. :)

RGB is just three LED's in one package.
I thought I would playing with it with my arduino in this weeked, but I never got around. Damn, I am too lazy.

I think that you people much been übermensch; how can you manually solder 3x900 LED's without going insane?
bradsprojects (author)  alfredhenriksen4 years ago
C is a great language to use and you are right in that using a higher level language like C is a real time saver.

I have solved the problem of having to solder in all of the LED's - I have found some 32 x 16 RGB panels which when you put two together - you get 32 x 32 = )

The panels cost me $160 for two of them including postage. This will greatly simplify the construction of the project.

Once I have finished with the new RGB version, I will again upload details.
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