Step 13: Give It Some Legs to Stand On.

Now comes time for the legs.

Get your four 45cm Legs that you cut earlier and screw them into each of the four corners.

I used four screws for each leg - Don't forget to pre-drill !
<p>Hi, i don't have the atari controllers but i do have the old ps2 controllers. Can those be used?</p>
<p>or a simple keys (push buttons) system?</p>
<p>can i use 40pins pic18f4550 rather than 44pins?</p>
Hi, yes you can. They are actually exactly the same chip, just in a different package. They both have the same connections that you will need for this game.<br><br>Although, you may be interested in the newer, better and easier to make version of this game:<br>http://www.bradsprojects.com/retroball-a-four-player-led-pong-game/<br><br>(downloads at the bottom of the page before the comments section)<br>
too late I've got all the materials need for this. can you help me make a counter for each player? using seven segment? and can i use the fx from the retroball loaded to my pic18f4550.
you still have a problem with the buttons. the two 10k resistors are connected to vcc. not ground. I used desoldered the two onboard resistors and used to external ones and hooked them to ground and it works perfectly.
Forgive my ignorance with the Pic family but what software do you use to upload the firmware? <br>I have only ever used the Arduino and this would be my first venture into the Pic world. <br> <br>Just so you know, I have just ordered a Pickit2 Starter kit, hope it comes with the correct stuff! <br> <br>Regards <br> <br> <br>Darren
No worries. The PICKIT2 starter kit contains the PICKIT2 (funnily enough...) and that is what you will use to program the microcontroller. There are 5 connections you will need to connect (check out this image to see where they are) <br>http://i.stack.imgur.com/I1N6b.png <br> <br>VPP - programming supply <br>VDD - power supply for the microcontroller <br>VSS - Ground <br>PGD - Serial Data <br>PGC - Clock <br> <br>You don't need to connect the sixth AUX connector. <br> <br>All you need to do is line these 5 connections up with the same 5 connections on the PIC. (some of the PIC pins have multiple functions, so these abbreviations may be hidden in amongst other abbreviations on the same pin) <br> <br>Then you just load up the PICKIT2 software and it will autodetect the PICKIT2 and whatever PIC chip is connected to it. You then just open your hex file and click upload.
Thank you for your pointer, this should be fun when the parts turn up!<br><br>is there a big difference between the Pickit2 and Pickit3?<br>I would have assumed that the 3 would just have a wider compatibility with the newer chips.<br><br>On your instructable you mention that the Pic will already be fitted to the board, but when you order them it does not have anything on.<br>Not a major problem because I have ordered a couple of chips, (just in case!) but I thought I would mention it.<br> <br>Kind regards<br><br>Darren
I haven't looked much into the PICKIT3 (I guess because I haven't needed to) But I also would assume it supports more chips. Perhaps the 24 series and 32 series? <br> <br>I don't remember and can't find where it is written that it would be soldered to the board already. Could you copy and paste that here for me? <br>
Funny enough it said it in the parts list on this front page but it doesn't seem to be there any more.<br> <br> <br> <br> &nbsp;
Hi Brad. Great project. is there anyplace i can buy all the components in one place now that the Kickstarter program is over?
Unfortunately not - You have to shop around to find all of the parts and they aren't that cheap if you don't buy in bulk.&nbsp;<br> <br> I am working on porting the retroball code over to super pong table so users can upgrade :)<br> <br> Here's the download for the RetroBall details:<br> <a href="http://www.bradsprojects.com/RetroBall/RetroBallFiles.zip" rel="nofollow">http://www.bradsprojects.com/RetroBall/RetroBallFiles.zip</a><br>
I have completed the super pong table but it won't program. I am having trouble connecting the ICSP wires on the board to the pickit 2 in the right order. but so far every different configuration we have tried has resulted in the same error. It always says: &quot;Program failed to write at memory address 0x000000&quot;.
Unfortunately you may have a bad / damaged microcontroller. Or perhaps you have a solder joint problem or short circuit on your microcontroller legs?
I'm making one in a IKEA Lack table :)<br> <strong><a href="http://docs.google.com/folder/d/0BzLuPC1YssYuX1hHdkVDX3kzQjA/edit" rel="nofollow">See here</a></strong>
Wow - that is fantastic! <br> <br>Such a good quality build - much nicer than my table. I'll post links to it on my forum. <br> <br>Thanks for letting me know, it's great to see other people building one for themselves.
How much would it cost for you to make this for me and ship it to me? <br>I live in the UK and I'm being serious! I want this but don't have the time or effort! A genuine response would be awesome :)
Hi, I have made a new and improved version of this game that you can now purchase.<br> <br> Check out:<br> <a href="http://www.kickstarter.com/projects/1411349329/retroball-nostalgic-fun-for-up-to-four-players" rel="nofollow">http://www.kickstarter.com/projects/1411349329/retroball-nostalgic-fun-for-up-to-four-players</a><br> <br>
would love to make this for my game room <br>how much was the total cost
and the time it takes to make
Hi <br> I now create your work <br> However, there is a problem. <br> I do not know how program to use the source <br> I saw a read-only source <br> It seems using it <br> A detailed description of the photo step by step, please <br> it is my mail 100akwon@naver.com <br>please quick answer <br> Thank you for reading.
hello, i programmed the pic with the super pong table version 2 and it's in an infinite loop with the star rotating, sometimes it shows the choose your players screen but i can't select the players, any chance you know what might be wrong?
Hey there. I've put everything together and when I turn it on a single row of led's light up and then go out very quickly and then about 4 in the middle do that same then they are all blank. Not sure if this has anything to do with it but i'm using blue LED's. What do you think could be the problem?
Finally got around to finishing the game, and it's a lot of fun. I'm going to make my own version of the board, and use some of the small RGB LED displays to make a handheld game. Are there any digital pins not used in the program? I was thinking about using the open pin to toggle between colors over time. And if at all possible, use another open pin to somehow vary the voltage on the 2803's so the LED's fade in and out instead of jumping straight to the next color.
Good work!<br><br>There are certainly some digital pins not used. In the revised version of the circuit board there are around a dozen extra pins that I have made access to and called it the expansion port. With the original version of the board these pins are still spare but harder to get to because you need to try and solder small wires straight onto the spare pins of the microcontroller.<br><br>As for varying the brightness of the LED's you would need some sort of digital to analogue converter which would make the circuitry a bit more complex. Or you could use pulse width modulation which would be quite tricky to do with your code.
Ah, alright. I was wondering what the expansion port was for. As for PWM'ing the LEDs, couldn't I put a transistor in front of the power pin on the 2803 and have the microcontroller turn it on when the color is supposed to be on, and then have the microcontroller send pulses to the base of the transistor when it has to switch colors? Or would I need too big a transistor to deal with the large amount of current it would need if all 32 LEDs in any given string are on?
You could do that although just as you say, you would need a high power darlington pair transistor. I am also not sure what kind of delay would be involved due to the switching on and off of the power rail to the 2803. It could very well be something to experiment with though.
If all 32 LEDs are on, then it would need 640 milliamps. So theoretically a transistor capable of about 700 milliamps would work fine, right? And I have a PIC that was programmed to do rapid fire in xbox controllers, if I can find it I'll hook it up to an extra 2803 I have and see if there's a noticeable lag. The PIC has three modes, and in one of them it pulses two pins at the same time, so I'll hook up one pin to an LED, and the other to the transistor and 2803 as I mentioned earlier. The pulse speed is quite slow, about 6 pulses a second, so if there is a significant lag it should be visible.
Hey man, the place is sold out of the boards! Is there any other way to get a pre made one? I really want to make this for my girlfriend. We are getting ready to move into our fist home and thought this would be an awsome house warming gift to ourselfs!
I like to know if the features, at least, the lcd display for the score, its easy to apply, because its is very interesting...when this &quot;update&quot; on the steps will come out, bests regards...
does it matter what the wattage is on the resistors?
I meant the size of the SMR's. Sorry :)
any recommendation of which pic programmer I should get?
The best by far is the pickit2 (get one direct from microchip.com)
could I buy this one considering I don't need the board to program the chip right?<br><br>http://cgi.ebay.com/Clone-Microchip-Development-Programmer-Mini-PICKIT-2-/250844066095?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_2&amp;hash=item3a6778b12f<br><br>instead of this:<br><br>http://www.microchipdirect.com/productsearch.aspx?Keywords=DV164120
Short answer is yes it will work.<br><br>Long answer is that they have copied the original manufacturers design and their code that is stored in the chips inside to make them.
awesome thanks :)
will these led's work?<br><br>http://cgi.ebay.com/Blue-Cylindrical-5mm-Hi-Intens-LED-1000mcd-10-2USNDJ-/130315640817?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&amp;hash=item1e576adff1<br><br>Thanks!
Here's a much better deal for you, and they will work.<br><br>http://cgi.ebay.com/1000-pcs-5mm-Round-Blue-Superbright-LED-Light-blue-/110608686099?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&amp;hash=item19c0ca9c13<br><br>If you were to buy the other ones you looked at, it would cost you about $400 (because you need 900 LED's)<br><br>the ones I have shown will cost you less than $30 for 1000 of them.
okay thanks. I bought those and all of the other parts on iteadstudio.com<br><br>another question. What is a good (hopefully cheap) pic programmer to buy that is compatible with that chip?<br><br>Thanks
I just had an idea for the newest version of this table. Would it be possible to make it 3d? I was thinking that you could use 8 more 74373's, and connect them to another 30x30 matrix, then angle one matrix several degrees to the right and the other display several degrees to the left? It would probably be extremely expensive, but if it works it'd be well worth it. That probably wouldn't work with the pre-made matrices though. Just throwing that out there. The programming wouldn't need any adjustments though. The only thing I'm not sure on is that the spacing of the LEDs might not allow us to get the full effect, even if they were side by side.
I'd certainly like to see someone make one of those, although I just wouldn't have the time to make that many myself.<br><br>Are you up for it?
If I can get this current version to work, I'm certainly going to try.
I'm in the process of building this, and bought the circuit board last week. I was planning to use my buddy's PIC programmer to program the microcontroller, but for whatever reason, it isn't compatible with the 18f4550. Would I be able to buy a preprogrammed chip from you, or do you know of anywhere that could program it for me? I work mainly with analog circuits, so buying a PIC programmer would be a waste. This is a very cool project though.
Hi sorry for the late reply.<br><br>I could do that for you although I would have to sell you both the board and the chip because I need to solder the microcontroller to the board in order to program it.<br><br>If you still want that done it will be $15 and then whatever postage is ontop of that.<br><br>Just let me know.<br><br>Cheers,<br><br>-brad
Ah, ok. I already bought one board, and as of right now I only plan on making one. I do have a few friends who were blown away by the idea of a table that could play pong though, so I may have a few to order in the future. I received the board today, I can't wait to start working on it. I read you were going to make a few other games for this table as well, would you be able to program a galaga type game? <br>
I am actually working on an RGB version of the display.<br><br>This version will be capable of much better games (because we have eight colours instead of just one)<br><br>I am unsure of when I will finish it due to time restraints.
Sounds cool man. Would there be a way to use this current version of the PCB with the RGB version?
It will require a new circuit board because the displays I am using are pre-made and they have a serial interface.<br><br>The good news is that the circuit board is quite simplified with only a few components rather than a board full of components.

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