Introduction: Super Simple Raspberry Pi 433MHz Home Automation

This tutorial is one among many when it comes to using a Raspberry Pi to control wireless devices around the home. Like many others, it will show you how to use a cheap transmitter/receiver pair hooked up to your Pi to interact with devices operating on the commonly used 433MHz radio frequency band. It will specifically show you how to turn any electrical device on or off using your Pi by transmitting commands to a set of 433MHz remote-controlled power sockets.

Why did I create this tutorial if so many already exist? Mainly because pretty much all the other tutorials I came across seemed to overcomplicate things, especially on the software side. I noticed that they relied heavily on third-party libraries, scripts or code snippets to do all the work. Many wouldn't even explain what the underlying code was doing - they would just ask you to shove two or three pieces of software on your Pi and execute a bunch of commands, no questions asked. I really wanted to try and use my Pi to turn electrical devices on and off around my home using a set of 433MHz remote-controlled sockets, but I wanted to create my own version of the system that I could understand, hopefully eliminating the need to use someone else's libraries or scripts.

That is what this tutorial is about. The software side of this system consists of two very simple Python scripts - one for receiving and recording signals, and one for transmitting these signals back to the wireless power sockets. The actual reception/transmission of the signal relies only on the easy-to-use RPi.GPIO library which, at least for me, came pre-installed with Raspbian. This library can also be imported directly into Python.

For this project you will need:

  • A 433MHz transmitter/receiver pair. The ones most commonly used in this type of project seem to be these. Buying a pack of five like the one linked ensures that you have a few spares.
  • A set of 433MHz remote-controlled power sockets. I bought these which I'd highly recommend, but there are countless models available. Just make sure they operate on this frequency!
  • Some circuit-building accessories. I'd recommend using a breadboard and some jumper cables to make the circuit building process as easy as possible.

[If you decide to buy any of these products, I would greatly appreciate it if you access the listings using the above links - that way, I get a tiny share of the profits at no extra cost to you!]

Step 1: Setting Up the Receiver Unit

Before you can use your Pi to send commands to the remote-controlled sockets, you need to know what specific signals they respond to. Most remote-controlled sockets ship with a handset that can be used to turn specific units on or off. In the case of the ones I bought, the handset has four rows of paired ON/OFF buttons, each of which sends out an ON or OFF signal to a particular socket unit.

This brings up a question - how do we know which buttons correspond to which socket? This actually depends on the model you have. One of the main reasons I chose my particular model of socket (linked in the introduction) is that each unit has a small set of switches on the back which can be manually configured to make a particular socket respond to a particular set of ON/OFF buttons on the handset. This also means that you can unplug and move the sockets around the house knowing that a particular unit will always respond to the same ON/OFF signals.

Once you have figured out how your sockets interact with the handset, you will need to use your 433MHz receiver unit (pictured above) to 'sniff' the codes being sent out by the handset. Once you have recorded the waveforms of these codes, you can replicate them using Python and send them out using the transmitter unit.

The first thing to do here is wire the pins on your receiver to the correct GPIO pins on the Pi. The receiver unit has four pins, but only three of them are needed. I think both of the central pins give the same output, so you only need to connect to one of them (unless you want to stream the received signals to two separate GPIO pins).

The image above pretty much summarises the wiring. Each pin on the receiver can be wired directly to the corresponding pin on the Pi. I use a breadboard and jumper cables to make the process a bit more elegant. Note that you can choose any GPIO data pin to connect to either of the central receiver pins. I used the pin marked as '23' on my Pi header.

IMPORTANT: If you connect the pin marked '3v3' in the above image to a higher voltage pin on the Pi (e.g. 5v), you will probably damage the Pi as the GPIO pins cannot tolerate voltages above 3v3. Alternatively, you can power it with 5v and set up a voltage divider to send a safe voltage to the DATA pin.

The range of the receiver will not be very large at this voltage, especially if an antenna is not connected. However, you don't need a long range here - as long as the receiver can pick up the signals from the handset when they are held right next to each other, that is all we need.

Step 2: Sniffing the Handset Codes

Now that your receiver is wired up to the Pi, you can start the first exciting stage of this project - the sniff. This involves using the attached Python script to record the signal transmitted by the handset when each button is pressed. The script is very simple, and I'd highly recommend you have a look at it before you run it - after all, the point of this project is that you won't just blindly run someone else's code!

Before you start this process, you will need to make sure you have the Python libraries needed to run the sniffer script. They are listed at the top of the script:

from datetime import datetime
import matplotlib.pyplot as pyplot
import RPi.GPIO as GPIO

The RPi.GPIO and datetime libraries were included with my Raspbian distribution, but I had to install the matplotlib library as follows:

sudo apt-get install python-matplotlib

This library is a commonly used graph plotting library that is very useful even outside of this project, so installing it definitely can't hurt! Once your libraries are up to date, you are ready to start recording data. Here's how the script works:

When it is run (using the command 'python'), it will configure the defined GPIO pin as a data input (pin 23 by default). It will then continually sample the pin and log whether it is receiving a digital 1 or 0. This continues for a set duration (5 seconds by default). When this time limit is reached, the script will stop recording data and will close off the GPIO input. It then performs a little post-processing and plots the received input value against time. Again, if you have questions about what the script is doing, you can probably answer them yourself after looking at how it works. I have tried to make the code as readable and simple as possible.

What you need to do is look out for when the script indicates that it has **Started recording**. Once this message appears, you should press and hold one of the buttons on the handset for about a second. Be sure to hold it close to the receiver. Once the script has finished recording, it will use matplotlib to plot a graphical waveform of the signal it has received during the recording interval. Please note, if you are connected to your Pi using an SSH client such as PuTTY, you will also need to open an X11 application to allow the waveform to display. I use xMing for this (and for other things such as remote-desktopping into my Pi). To allow the plot to be displayed, simply start xMing before you run the script and wait for the results to appear.

Once your matplotlib window appears, the area of interest within the plot should be pretty obvious. You can use the controls at the bottom of the window to zoom in until you are able to pick out the highs and lows of the signal transmitted by the handset while the button was being held down. See the above image for an example of a complete code. The signal will probably consist of very short pulses separated by similar periods of time where no signal is received. This block of short pulses will probably be followed by a longer period where nothing is received, after which the pattern will repeat. Once you have identified the pattern belonging to a single instance of the code, take a screenshot like that at the top of this page, and continue to the next step to interpret it.

Step 3: Transcribing the Resulting Signal

Now that you have identified the block of periodic highs and lows corresponding to a particular button's signal, you will need a way of storing and interpreting it. In the above signal example, you will notice that there are only two unique patterns that make up the whole signal block. Sometimes you see a short high followed by a long low, and sometimes it's the opposite - a long high followed by a short low. When I was transcribing my signals, I decided to use the following naming convention:

1 = short_on + long_off
0 = long_on + short_off

Look again at the labelled waveform, and you will see what I mean. Once you have identified the equivalent patterns in your signal, all you have to do is count the 1's and 0's to build up the sequence. When transcribed, the above signal can be written as follows:


Now you just need to repeat this process to record and transcribe the signals corresponding to the other buttons on your handset, and you have completed the first part of the process!

Before you can re-send the signals using the transmitter, there is a little more work to do. The timing between the highs and lows corresponding to a 1 or a 0 is very important, and you need to make sure that you know how long a 'short_on' or a 'long_off' actually lasts. For my codes, there were three pieces of timing information I needed to extract in order to replicate the signals:

  • The duration of a 'short' interval, i.e. the beginning of a 1 or the end of a 0.
  • The duration of a 'long' interval, i.e. the end of a 1 or the beginning of a 0.
  • The duration of an 'extended' interval. I noticed that when I held a button down on the handset, there was an 'extended_off' period between each repeated instance of the signal block. This delay is used for synchronisation and has a fixed duration.

To determine these timing values, you can use the zoom function on the matplotlib window to zoom all the way in and place the cursor over the relevant parts of the signal. The cursor location readout at the bottom of the window should allow you to determine how wide each part of the signal is that corresponds to a long, short or extended interval. Note that the x-axis of the plot represents time, and the x component of the cursor readout is in units of seconds. For me, the widths were as follows (in seconds):

  • short_delay = 0.00045
  • long_delay = 0.00090 (twice as long as a 'short')
  • extended_delay = 0.0096

Step 4: Setting Up the Transmitter Unit

Once you have collected your codes and timing data, you can disconnect your receiver unit as you will no longer need it. You can then wire up the transmitter directly to the relevant Pi GPIO pins as shown in the above image. I've found that the pins on the transmitter units are labelled, which makes the process easier.

In this case, it is OK to power the unit using the 5v supply from the Pi as the DATA pin will not be sending signals to the Pi, only receiving them. Also, a 5v power supply will provide more transmission range than using the 3v3 supply. Again, you can connect the DATA pin to any appropriate pin on the Pi. I used pin 23 (the same as for the receiver).

Another thing I'd recommend doing is adding an antenna to the small hole on the top right of the transmitter. I used a 17cm long piece of straight wire. Some sources recommend a coiled wire of similar length. I'm not sure which is better, but the straight wire provides enough range for me to turn the sockets on/off from any location in my small flat. It is best to solder the antenna, but I just removed some of the plastic from the wire and wrapped the copper through the hole.

Once the transmitter is wired up, that's all the hardware setup done! The only thing left to do now is set your sockets up around the house and have a look at the transmitter program.

Step 5: Transmitting Signals Using the Pi

This is where the second Python script comes in. It is designed to be just as simple as the first, if not more so. Again, please download it and look over the code. You will need to edit the script to transmit the correct signals according to the data you recorded in step 3, so now's a good time to have a quick glance at it.

The libraries needed to run this script were all pre-installed on my Pi, so no further installation was needed. They are listed at the top of the script:

import time
import sys
import RPi.GPIO as GPIO

Underneath the library imports is the information you will have to edit. Here is how it looks by default (this is the information corresponding to my sockets as determined using step 3):

a_on = '1111111111111010101011101'
a_off = '1111111111111010101010111'
b_on = '1111111111101110101011101'
b_off = '1111111111101110101010111'
c_on = '1111111111101011101011101'
c_off = '1111111111101011101010111'
d_on = '1111111111101010111011101'
d_off = '1111111111101010111010111'
short_delay = 0.00045
long_delay = 0.00090
extended_delay = 0.0096

Here we have eight code strings (two for each pair of on/off buttons on my handset - you may have more or fewer codes) followed by the three pieces of timing information also determined in step 3. Take the time to make sure you have entered this information correctly.

Once you're happy with the codes/delays you've entered into the script (you can rename the code string variables if you like), you are pretty much ready to try out the system! Before you do, take a look at the transmit_code() function in the script. This is where the actual interaction with the transmitter occurs. This function expects one of the code strings to be sent in as an argument. It then opens up the defined pin as a GPIO output and loops through every character in the code string. It then turns the transmitter on or off according to the timing information you entered to build up a waveform matching the code string. It sends each code multiple times (10 by default) to reduce the chance of it being missed, and leaves an extended_delay between each code block, just like the handset.

To run the script, you can use the following command syntax:

python code_1 code_2 ...

You can transmit multiple code strings with a single run of the script. For example, to turn sockets (a) and (b) on and socket (c) off, run the script with the following command:

python a_on b_on c_off

Step 6: A Note on Timing Accuracy

As mentioned, the timing between the transmitted on/off pulses is quite important. The script uses python's time.sleep() function to build up the waveforms with the correct pulse intervals, but it should be noted that this function is not entirely accurate. The length for which it causes the script to wait before executing the next operation can depend on the processor load at that given instant. That is another reason why sends each code multiple times - just in case the time.sleep() function is not able to properly construct a given instance of the code.

I have personally never had issues with time.sleep() when it comes to sending the codes. I do however know that my time.sleep() tends to have an error of about 0.1ms. I determined this using the attached script which can be used to give an estimate of how accurate your Pi's time.sleep() function is. For my particular remote-controlled sockets, the shortest delay I needed to implement was 0.45ms. As I said, I haven't had issues with non-responsive sockets, so it seems like 0.45 ± 0.1ms is good enough.

There are other methods for ensuring that the delay is more accurate; for example, you could use a dedicated PIC chip to generate the codes, but stuff like that is beyond the scope of this tutorial.

Step 7: Conclusion

This project has presented a method for controlling any electrical appliance using a Raspberry Pi and a set of 433MHz remote-controlled sockets, with a focus on simplicity and transparency. This is the most exciting and flexible project that I have used my Pi for, and there are limitless applications for it. Here are some things I can now do thanks to my Pi:

  • Turn on an electric heater next to my bed half an hour before my alarm goes off.
  • Turn the heater off an hour after I've gone to sleep.
  • Turn my bedside light on when my alarm goes off so that I don't fall back to sleep.
  • and many more...

For most of these tasks, I use the crontab function within Linux. This allows you to set up automatic scheduled tasks to run the script at specific times. You can also use the Linux at command to run one-off tasks (which, for me, needed to be installed separately using 'sudo apt-get install at'). For example, to turn my heater on half an hour before my alarm goes off the next morning, all I need to do is type:

at 05:30
python c_on

You could also use this project in conjunction with my Dropbox home monitoring system to control appliances over the internet! Thanks for reading, and if you would like to clarify something or share your opinion, please post a comment!


decioaccietto (author)2017-07-07

Hi!.. thanks for the tutorial.. I could make the sniff well.. but I realice something, the code has differents times. I try with differents 433Mhz controls.. can you give me a hand? thanks!

danieltmb (author)decioaccietto2017-08-09

You have to use 4 different peaks. 1 for short_on followed by long_off. 0 for short_on followed by short_off. 2 for long_on followed by short_off. And 3 for long_on followed by long_off.

If I done it right for you it is than: 10231103111022311030230303031.

Hope it helps

LeoB69 (author)2017-07-21

Thanks George and JoeR

I live in an apartment building and had too much RF interference to do the pattern decoding in 1 shot. I changed the detection to a loop and was able to see the real patterns. My version of JoeR's code follows:

pattern = []

for i in range(len(RECEIVED_SIGNAL[0])):

if timedeltas[i]<0.0003:


elif 0.0003<timedeltas[i]<0.0008:


elif 0.0008<timedeltas[i]<0.1:


# break # at the first space break

# print pattern # this includes high and low

pattern = pattern[::2] # you only want the odd values ie the high

pattern = [str(i) for i in pattern]

patternstr = ''.join(pattern)

print patternstr

pattern = []

Also because of the interference the times were not accurate. It took a number of runs to get valid tImes.

I'm using ElekCity outlet modules and the lights are working great.

QuentinB28 made it! (author)2017-06-06

Worked right away, awesome.

eslondon (author)2017-05-30

Hi George/people. Great tutorial. I have been following it, but I am stucked in sniffing the signals, since, working from a Mac, haven´t been able to display the graph (as you did with Xming). I wonder if you have any reference on which app my do the job in Mac, similar to Xming. I ran the code and it goes until **Plotting results**, then the program quits and no graph appears.

I tried with XQuartz and different X11 apps, but no luck yet.

Thanks you.


Mr.C23 (author)2017-05-14

Thanks for your wonderful tutorial !

Bruno_G (author)2017-05-13

HI, I'd like to use the PI with a 433mhz PIR, but I do not know how to check the code of the sensor, i.e. I decoded it with RFSniffer, but I am not able to create the script for checking when it is activated. Do you have any suggestion?

A strange thing: the receiver receives a lot of signals also when the Sensor is switched off, perhaps there is noise in the environment.


Bruno_G (author)2017-05-04

Hi, I bought the xcsource receiver suggested in the tutorial, but the technical specification reports a 5V working voltage, so I'd like to know if I must use the 3v3 or the 5V PIN. Can you help me? thanks

RudyV7 (author)Bruno_G2017-05-07

The maximum input voltage op the GPIO pins is 3V3 so, do,'t use 5V. The receiver will work on 3V3 also. Beware, 5V on one or more GPIO pins is gonna damage the RPI.

JoeR158 (author)2016-11-12

Really nice instructions!!

I added the following code to the end of the receive code to calculate the spaces without zooming on matplotlib as it was giving some hit and miss results on the control of my system. The code is fairly rough as its a Saturday after some beers..

currentvalue= 0

changepoints = []

timedeltas = []

for i in range(len(RECEIVED_SIGNAL[0])):

if RECEIVED_SIGNAL[1][i] != currentvalue:


dt = RECEIVED_SIGNAL[0][i]-changepoints[-1]



pass # for the first one there wont be anything in changepoints


currentvalue = RECEIVED_SIGNAL[1][i]

#print timedeltas[0:100]

shortlist = []

longlist = []

spacelist =[]

for i in range(100): #i looked at the first 100 changes you could do more

if timedeltas[i]<0.0003: # note the values here were from experimentation... bit of lazy coding


elif 0.0003<timedeltas[i]<0.0008:


elif 0.0008<timedeltas[i]<0.1:


print shortlist

print longlist

print spacelist

print sum(shortlist)/len(shortlist),sum(longlist)/len(longlist),sum(spacelist)/len(spacelist)

RudyV7 (author)JoeR1582017-05-05

Hey JoeR158, I'm trying to put your script after the receive code. After running it I always get an error in this line:'if timedeltas[i]<0.0003: # note the values here were from experimentation... bit of lazy coding'. The error I'm getting is 'IndexError: list index out of range'. Any thoughts wat goes wrong and how to fix it?

JoeR158 (author)JoeR1582016-11-12

you can also use this to calculate the 1 0 pattern, this goes after the code above

pattern = []

for i in range(100):

if timedeltas[i]<0.0003:


elif 0.0003<timedeltas[i]<0.0008:


elif 0.0008<timedeltas[i]<0.1:


break # at the first space break

print pattern # this includes high and low

pattern = pattern[::2] # you only want the odd values ie the high

pattern = [str(i) for i in pattern]

patternstr = ''.join(pattern)

print patternstr

Steve_Bl (author)2017-02-25

Update:- changed from Pi zero to Pi3 and have successfully got codes for the Status plugs using pigpio 433 code. The DMiotech light switches continue to be elusive.

Steve_Bl (author)2017-02-25

I have been following this and had no success, just noise. Has anyone been successful getting the code structure for DMiotech light switches? I got mine from Amazon sold by sourcingmap.

leopard_14 (author)2017-02-14

How can I adapt the scripts that if I run it, the sockets spring on and if I quit the program the sockets turn off

HarryM33 (author)2017-02-08

Hey there,

I have a bit of a problem with it, I have this big rectangle every time and I don't know how to put for it...

I have found for the code

0000011011011111110001001111110011011101111111 but I think I made a mistake doing the translation.

Any idea ?

Thank you

Screen Shot 2017-02-08 at 18.14.25.pngScreen Shot 2017-02-08 at 18.15.10.png
george7378 (author)HarryM332017-02-09

Hey - looks like you just have some extra syncing transmissions or something which come before your actual code. I'd just take the timings and on/off values and put them in their own 'send_sync_code()' method or something, then you can just call that before you send your actual code.

PeterO102 made it! (author)2017-02-07

Hi There,

Finally found a way to get codes of my AWST-8800 Kaku switches.

can someone support me with the code translate. Its more then in tutorial and i don't see the 0 strings.. only 1 ...

Screen Shot 2017-02-07 at 12.14.12.jpg
pipberry (author)2017-02-03

Hey There!

Thanks so much for your tutorial! It was a lot of fun so far wiring things up, playing with code etc. But I do have one question. I have the following plot attached and I cannot figure out what binary sequence it translates to.

Do you have any idea????

Thank you again!

Screen Shot 2017-02-02 at 8.06.10 PM.png
danicymru (author)2017-01-13

hi george7378. Thanks for this - it was a lot of help in understanding 433rf codes and the receive and transmit modules. You might be interested in the stuff I've done which really builds on what you have posted here. see

george7378 (author)danicymru2017-01-14

Hi! That's a great post, thanks for sharing. Yeah, there's a lot of room for extension, I always thought it would be nice to make a good user interface for it and maybe run it from a Pi using a touch screen, but I haven't started looking at that yet.

AlinD7 (author)2016-12-16

This is very cool. I would like to use your system to track a bunch of temp/humidity sensors (specifically this one: AcuRite-06002M-Wireless-Temperature-Humidity - it is only $12 on Amazon). Do you think it would work? The sniffing would be a bit tricky as the received data needs to be reverse engineered to find the format.

george7378 (author)AlinD72017-01-04

Hey, thank you! Yes, you should be able to receive data from it, just make sure it's close enough to the receiver module during sniffing. I'd be interested to see what you pick up, post a screenshot if you can :)

AlinD7 (author)george73782017-01-04

Yes, i had to re-write the sniffer, but i got some cool data. If you send me your email, i can send you shots, etc.

RaresD (author)2016-10-30

Great tutorial! It worked on the first try.

Thanks a lot! :)

mauern (author)2016-10-26

I think the labels of 5v and DATA are mixed up in the picture of the transmitter?

george7378 (author)mauern2016-10-27

Hey - what makes you think that? I think the picture's right.

mauern (author)george73782016-10-27

On the transmitter the left Pin is labeled with Vcc, so shouldn't the voltage be connected to that pin?

george7378 (author)mauern2016-10-29

I think that's a printing error - have a look round google to confirm :)

Hishi (author)2016-10-16

Hey, I'm trying to run the script but i get the error message:

TypeError: unsupported operand type(s) for +: 'datetime.timedelta' and 'float'

On the row that says:

RECIEVED_SIGNAL[0][i] = RECIEVED_SIGNAL[0][i] + RECIEVED_SIGNAL[0][i].microseconds/1000000.0

I've tried to use an Int intstead of float, python 3 instead of python 2 but no luck yet.

Have any ides?

george7378 (author)Hishi2016-10-17


It looks like your script is wrong - that line should be:

RECEIVED_SIGNAL[0][i] = RECEIVED_SIGNAL[0][i].seconds + RECEIVED_SIGNAL[0][i].microseconds/1000000.0

i.e. your '.seconds' is missing.

Hishi (author)george73782016-10-17

*Face meets Palm* thanks

The down side of wanting to write everything instead of copy paste... :-/

PhamH4 (author)2016-10-03

this is the plot when I didn't do anything. How can I eliminate noise ?

Screen Shot 2016-10-03 at 11.51.11 PM.png
george7378 (author)PhamH42016-10-04

Hey - not exactly sure as mine was noise-free by default. Perhaps it's your environment or your particular receiver unit - I'm not sure! The amount of noise you have in this image shouldn't be an issue though - just zoom in on the dense blue area and you should still be able to read your signal pattern easily :)

PhamH4 (author)george73782016-10-04

You're right. It depends on receiver, I changed several receivers and one of them has less noise and I can decode from the plot. I can easily send signal to one of my light switch. But I also have ceiling fan to remote, I'm still able to decode from the remote but when I send the signal nothing happened. I tried so many ways (+- 1 for long, short, reverse the sequence) but no luck. I figured out the ceiling fan use 303.875MHz and my sender/receiver work on 315MHz-433.92MHz. But my receiver still recognize signal from the remote and the sequence is shorter than others (1000001111101). Do you have any thought ?

george7378 (author)PhamH42016-10-13

Hey - that's interesting - I never tried anything outside of 433MHz. Yeah, I'd guess it's possible that the transmitter isn't able to operate on 304MHz like the receiver, or that the timings are too short to be able to build up the signal.

MeowI1 (author)2016-08-18

One last comment on this article since it is one of the best resources for RF signals.

Many RF switches like electicity allow your to 'learn' codes. Also like magic you can buy more than 4 and there is only a small chance of overlap. This article touches why this is possible. It is due to the varying wave being sent i.e. 'short_delay' 'long_delay'.

This means that across some devices they can learn a code as long as it is a valid code. Rather than receiving a code and decoding it. Let's have the switch 'learn' the code we are sending it. This is actually the case with the livolo switches. The nice part is we don't we need to do any manual math, we don't need a receiver, and no graphic interface unit.

MeowI1 (author)2016-08-17

LIVOLO SWITCHES SOLVED!!! no remote required :)

I solved livolo light switch using this technique and it can be applied to many switches and you DON'T need a remote! It is very similar to the OP's design, but made for livolo.

You simple put your light switch into discovery mode (hold down switch for 5 seconds).
After the switch beeps, run

```python on```

You should hear your switch beep again, and that will mean it is paired!

'OFF' is actually ALL OFF, so that should work out of box!

JangoF (author)2016-03-20

great tutorial!!

i used to use 433utills but this tutorial shows the behind of scene

did you know if it can work for LIVOLO brand light switches? as i read that is uses maby different method

check out this project :

george7378 (author)JangoF2016-03-21

Hey, thank you very much - I'm not sure, but looking at those switches on Amazon seems to show that they are more complicated than just the on/off switches you normally get. If they work on 433MHz then there is a chance you could work out how they communicate, but I imagine the signals will be more complicated to work with.

JangoF (author)george73782016-03-21


MeowI1 (author)JangoF2016-08-17

I solved livolo light switch using this technique and it can be applied to many switches and you DON'T need a remote! It is very similar to the OP's design, but made for livolo.

You simple put your light switch into discovery mode (hold down switch for 5 seconds).
After the switch beeps, run

```python on```

You should hear your switch beep again, and that will mean it is paired!

'OFF' is actually ALL OFF, so that should work out of box!

MeowI1 (author)2016-08-12

That was an incredible guide. I read this guide and had it working 60 minutes after opening the pi. There are a couple things I would like to note.
The 23 pin is actually the GPIO23 pin not the pin in the 23rd place on the board. This was my initial blunder since 23 on the board is also a GPIO pin.

When recording the signal there was a considerable amount of noise I had to skip. I spent a good 10 minutes analyzing the wrong part of the image.

Anyways 10/10 guide, if you added those two tips I would have had it running in 30 minutes! Cheers

george7378 (author)MeowI12016-08-13

Hey, thanks, that's really encouraging :) yeah the following line in the scripts makes the GPIO follow the actual numbering rather than just the pin positions:


If you set it to GPIO.BOARD then it uses the physical positions. It's strange about the noise - there was almost none for me. If you are able to find the signal though, it should be far stronger than the background noise meaning that it overrides it and appears quite clearly.

MeowI1 (author)george73782016-08-17

Yeah, I was able to sort it out all right. The really tricky thing is trying to figure out how to make these Livolo switches to work. So much going on with the signal 0.0

DaniD30 (author)MeowI12016-08-17

Thanks for the clarification of the GPIO23 it helped a lot!

MeowI1 (author)DaniD302016-08-17

No problem! I am glad I was able to save someone else a little struggle

DaniD30 (author)2016-08-16 shows .00010 and my short delay is .00014

Does that mean i cant work with my device?

DaniD30 (author)DaniD302016-08-17

I cant get it to work, i think i have decoded the signal from the transmitter (remote control of electric blinds) correctly but I don't think the RPI transmitter is keeping up with the interval speeds.

MikeM456 (author)2016-07-09

SUCCESS!! It took a bit of fiddling. Initially it didn't work, so I went back and measured the intervals again and discovered that it was actually 0.00012 and 0.00048, which makes a little more sense. I also discovered a critical component, I wasn't counting the last wave of the signal as, in my case, a short on, long off. Once I did the troubleshooting and pressed enter (not expecting anything to happen really), it worked perfectly! Well, I say perfectly, but in my excitement, I was turning it off and on at a steady pace and it was working. Then, for a minute or two it stopped responding. I was a bit bummed then decided to move the transmitter about 1-2 meters from the outlet and it started working again. Thought it was a distance thing, so I moved it to another lamp about 20 feet from me. To my surprise it actually worked quite a few times. Turning it off this last time took a couple of tries. So now I am stuck with trying to figure out if it is a crappy transmitter, a general transmit power thing, or something with the timing in the application. I do have a 1cm piece of Cat5 strand (i.e. one of the 8) soldered to the antenna hole. Will most certainly need to figure out a good way to test the strength of the signal for troubleshooting. In any event, thanks again for the tutorial, I had a lot of fun and learned a lot with this. And this is just the beginning... :)